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Old 01-28-2018, 07:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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I use a homemade BLO, spar and mineral spirit mix. Basically the same thing as a Danish oil mix. First coat has extra mineral spirits in so that it soaks into the wood deeper, second coat maybe the same or have less MS, 3rd coat is equal of all parts 1/1/1 mix. Then depending on the look I want I may add more spar for faster build up.

On special stuff, I do what I call a classic gunstock finish. The easiest way to explain that is Google "Frank Whiton classic gunstock finish", a time consuming, but a very rewarding final finish that is both durable and good looking.

There is no such thing as a good, fast and easy finish, if you want good you have to work at it.
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Old 01-28-2018, 09:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Any oil that cures can be used under any poly finish once it cures. After it cures, you could also put shellac over it first and then you can use any topcoat.

Boiled linseed oil and real tung oil are both curing oils. Walnut oil, mineral oil, etc, are not.
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Old 01-29-2018, 08:09 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JP1337 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by magpens View Post
This is a very interesting topic.

Hope we will hear more of your efforts/results with the hard finish.
I'll post the results once the finish has arrived and I give it a go.

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Originally Posted by jttheclockman View Post
Do not know the makeup of that plastic coating you speak of. Could be an epoxy resin mix of some sort.
I'm not entirely sure what it is made of, but it is a two part (resin+hardener). Interestingly, after mixing the resin and hardener, it can last several days in the mixing jar before it goes off so to speak. My friend had some in a small glass jar, mixed, that last an entire week (he kept it in the fridge) and was still usable with no problems. So that's interesting.

The instructions say to apply all coats in one day with one hour dry time between, then it takes two days after applying to fully harden.
I looked it up and I think it would maybe called a catalyzed lacquer in the US.

https://www.rustins.ltd/rustins/our-...hardener-gloss
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Old 01-29-2018, 09:56 AM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Interesting and informative thread. The only dumb question is the one not asked.
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Old 01-29-2018, 10:12 AM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by Bikerdad View Post
Boiled linseed oil and real tung oil are both curing oils. Walnut oil, mineral oil, etc, are not.

Not so sure about this.

I agree that BLO and real Tung oil are drying oils. Also that mineral oil is NOT a drying oil.

But I'm pretty sure that walnut oil is a drying oil.
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Old 01-29-2018, 10:49 AM   #16 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikerdad View Post
Boiled linseed oil and real tung oil are both curing oils. Walnut oil, mineral oil, etc, are not.

Not so sure about this.

I agree that BLO and real Tung oil are drying oils. Also that mineral oil is NOT a drying oil.

But I'm pretty sure that walnut oil is a drying oil.
All the Walnut Oil I have found is 100% walnut oil without the metallic driers that are added to say BLO. But there maybe a Walnut Oil "Finish" that has the driers.
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Old 01-30-2018, 11:11 AM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Any oil based poly or urethane over the Danish oil should be Ok after the oil dries. Really, a water based should be OK after it cures.

Try a thin shellac between or even instead of the oil. Shellac is a miracle product when it comes to finishing. The more I learn about it and more I use it the more I rely on it. Also one of the least nasty finishes as the solids are natural and the solvent is denatured alcohol(depending what the "denaturing" additive is to the alcohol).
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