Friction Polish

[rick_lindsey]

For a variety of reasons I've decided to go with friction polish on my first handful of cocobola pens, but I've got a question! Is there a significant difference between something like Mylands friction polish and, say, Shellawax?

I'm getting a micromesh set today, and am planning to step all the way through sandpaper (150 or 220 as a starting point unless i manage to get one of those magickal skew results that lets me start at 400) and then all the way through the micromesh on the bare wood before I put on the friction polish -- is that an appropriate way to go about it?

thanks!

-Rick

 

[MobilMan]

About the same stuff. They both use Shellac. Can be put on with the lathe turning & buffed with a paper towel [better than a rag]. Hold the towel to the blank til it's buffed some then hold the towel between 2 fingers & use a little pressure til you feel the heat. Heat is what makes it set up. Then a coat or two of Ren. wax.

 

[its_virgil]

Your finish, whatever product you use, will be only as good and nice looking as the wood underneath it. I spend more time on the wood than I do the finish. There is no way to get a good finish on a pen blank that is not properly prepared. So, sanding and using micromesh on the wood is an excellent start.

I'm no fan of friction polish on pens for several reasons. I do use friction polish on items that are not handled daily...such as bowls and other similar items. If friction polish is what you want to use then I can't argue with your choice. I have used all of the brands of friction polish and really consider them to be close to equal. I do not think shellawax is better than the others and it surely cost much more. I lean towards Mylands Hig Build friction polish. One mistake that is often made using friction polish is to use way too much. Use only enough to cover the pen...little is much. Also, heat is required...hence the name friction polish. Heat is needed to make friction polish perform properly. Be sure to apply enough pressure for friction to create heat to melt the wax and shellac and get rid of the solvent. Here is some excellent reading on finishing by the master. You can even make you own and Russ give the formula: http://woodturnerruss.com/FinishingSecrets.html
Do a good turn daily!
Don

For a variety of reasons I've decided to go with friction polish on my first handful of cocobola pens, but I've got a question! Is there a significant difference between something like Mylands friction polish and, say, Shellawax?

I'm getting a micromesh set today, and am planning to step all the way through sandpaper (150 or 220 as a starting point unless i manage to get one of those magickal skew results that lets me start at 400) and then all the way through the micromesh on the bare wood before I put on the friction polish -- is that an appropriate way to go about it?

thanks!

-Rick