Fixing CA Finish Problem

[jedgerton]

Ok, this worked once so it must work for all time right?

Have you ever completed one of your best CA finish jobs to date only to find that when you separated it from the bushing, it delaminated? What I mean my delamination is a cloudy area near the end of the finished blank where the CA finish separated from the blank but didn't chip.

Try the following if this ever happens to you, apply thin CA right at the end of the blank where the cloudy region exists. I just tried it and the thin CA filled the gap and made the blemish disappear.

This is only useful if the CA didn't chip and only appears cloudy where the bushing was separated.

I suppose avoiding this issue with delrin bushings would be better but I still use the metal bushings for sanding and finishing.

Give it a try if it happens to you!

John

 

[Dario]

I've used the same technique a few times before.

Add this tip, use a pin to apply the CA to the delaminated area. It reduces the chances of you applying CA on your finish.

 

[leehljp]

This problem occurring on oily blanks several times was the reason I moved over to mandrel-less. No problems since changing over. Your suggestion is a great way to fix it when it does happen, and I did like Dario said on a few. I took the finish back down to the wood the other times when the "lift" was too big.

 

[ehickey]

Sometimes when I have a gap between the tube and the wood and the glue didn't fill it, I use a drinking straw. I cut the straw at sharp angle so that it almost looks like a FP nib, and use the point to get the glue deep into the gap. The straw might be a little thick for this application, but maybe not. Anyway, there might be something else that is similar but thinner that can get the glue in deep.

 

[Tn-Steve]

Sometimes when I have a gap between the tube and the wood and the glue didn't fill it, I use a drinking straw. I cut the straw at sharp angle so that it almost looks like a FP nib, and use the point to get the glue deep into the gap. The straw might be a little thick for this application, but maybe not. Anyway, there might be something else that is similar but thinner that can get the glue in deep.

I bet that the plastic cofffee stirrers (the ones like a very thin straw) might be the ticket for that. I'll grab a couple when I get lunch today, let you know how they work.

Steve

 

[rwyoung]

Less of a fix the problem, more of maybe a prevent the problem.

I've only just started doing this stuff but I've added two steps.

Before starting the finish, I put just a touch of wax on the bushings. Don't get it on the edge (face) of the bushing so it won't migrate onto the blank. So far I've tried paste wax and just rubbing it on some parafin I keep around for scribbling wax onto saw blades and plane soles. The scribbling technique seems a bit more controlled than the paste.

After finishing, I use a razor knife to score the joint between the blank and the bushing. Lathe off, but mandrel still installed. Just a light score. Doesn't seem to take much pressure. I'm not trying to cut all the way down but I suppose you could try that too. I just want to fracture the CA at the joint so it snaps cleanly.

Only about 5 or 6 done this way so in no way is this an exhaustive field test. YMMV

 

[galoot_loves_tools]

After finishing, I use a razor knife to score the joint between the blank and the bushing. Lathe off, but mandrel still installed. Just a light score. Doesn't seem to take much pressure. I'm not trying to cut all the way down but I suppose you could try that too. I just want to fracture the CA at the joint so it snaps cleanly.

I do something similar except that, while the lathe is running, I use a spearpoint tool to cut through the finish on the the bushing just a hair from the join between the bushing and blank.

 

[Dario]

After finishing, I use a razor knife to score the joint between the blank and the bushing. Lathe off, but mandrel still installed. Just a light score. Doesn't seem to take much pressure. I'm not trying to cut all the way down but I suppose you could try that too. I just want to fracture the CA at the joint so it snaps cleanly.

Only about 5 or 6 done this way so in no way is this an exhaustive field test. YMMV

Try using an exacto knife with lathe on or off, works both ways for me.

 

[mick]

John, try applying you finish without bushings. After you've turned and sanded the blanks remove them from the mandrel and replace it with a deadcenter in the headstock. Mount one blank at a time between centers and apply finish.You'll normally get a nice smooth even "rollover" onto the edges of the blank, sealing them. Once cured any roughness on the ends can be sanded off on a piece of sandpaper mounted on any perfectly flat surface. Put the blanks back on the bushings and mandrel for sanding and polishing and you're done.....no lifting of finish!

 

[rwyoung]

Try using an exacto knife with lathe on or off, works both ways for me.

Xacto is a razor knife. Same way Klenax is a tissue and soda is pop...

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