Finishing suggestions: wood/acrylic segmented blank

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Sly Dog

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Nov 16, 2018
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Boise, Idaho
Hi:

So I'm trying to make a pen for a friend who served as part of Operation Iraqi Freedom back in the day, and I made a blank modeled after the OIF service ribbon from myrtle, holly and ebony with a red acrylic (I've tried to attach a photo of what I've turned so far).

My question: would you advise a CA or other type of finish for a mixed segmented blank?

I don't have much experience with finishes except for CA, but I have not applied CA to acrylic - preferring just to micro mesh and apply plastic polish. Also, I'm pretty sure that I have developed an allergy to CA that results in unpleasant cold/sinus symptoms for a day or two. But I just got a respirator with the charcoal canisters so I'm not giving up on CA yet, if that's the best finish for this blank. Appreciate any suggestions! Thanks, Russ
 

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jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
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Hi:

So I'm trying to make a pen for a friend who served as part of Operation Iraqi Freedom back in the day, and I made a blank modeled after the OIF service ribbon from myrtle, holly and ebony with a red acrylic (I've tried to attach a photo of what I've turned so far).

My question: would you advise a CA or other type of finish for a mixed segmented blank?

I don't have much experience with finishes except for CA, but I have not applied CA to acrylic - preferring just to micro mesh and apply plastic polish. Also, I'm pretty sure that I have developed an allergy to CA that results in unpleasant cold/sinus symptoms for a day or two. But I just got a respirator with the charcoal canisters so I'm not giving up on CA yet, if that's the best finish for this blank. Appreciate any suggestions! Thanks, Russ

Hello Russ and welcome to the site.

I like what you have segmented together. I will give you my thoughts because I have segmented some of those woods together and will tell you they will bleed into each other. Here is my way around that problem. I would turn the entire blank with either carbide or a skew or combination and never touch the blank with sand paper. As soon as you start sanding the ebony will bleed into the holy and you will add scratches to the acrylic that you will see when CA over. The stars you do not need to CA because I assume that is all acrylic but if not then same applys to that blank. Yes you can CA over acrylic and in fact that is about all that will stick to it.

Now when starting the finish with CA you need to lightly touch the blank in one sweeping motion and do not rub back and forth with thin CA to seal the blank and keep from smearing the wood colors into each other. It does work.

If it were me I would have chose all acrylic or all wood. Mixing medium like that opens yourself up to different expansion movement. To avoid ridges between the wood and acrylic again the skew is your friend. Those materials turn at different hardness levels so be careful.

Again this is just my opinion. Others may tell you something different. Good luck.
 

mark james

IAP Collection, Curator
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Sep 6, 2012
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Medina, Ohio
Welcome to IAP Russ,

IMO - Yes, a CA is probably merited here.

As mentioned tool skills are crucial to avoid/minimize cross contamination between the ebony and Holly; I fully agree.

However, with care, success is on your side.

This pen blank is Ebony, (not sure of the specific one, but very dark) black veneer and Yellowheart. The Janka hardness of the yellowheart is similar to your holly; both being less dense than any Ebony. The blank was turned with a Magical Skew (a carbide on a 45 degree angle to allow a shear scraping effect) and the grit for sanding started probably around 320 or 400. (I constructed the blanks, EBorraga did the turning). I believe there was 3-4 coats of CA used for the finish.

IMG_1117.jpg

One final comment: If you are having issues with CA, be very mindful. Once sensitized the problems will most likely get worse with further exposure. Make sure your respirator is well fitted. (My wife, a chemist also encourages me to shave my beard off for a better fit... I've taken that under consideration for the past 6-7 years :wink:).

OH, sweet blanks!
 

Sly Dog

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Location
Boise, Idaho
Thank you both for those suggestions! I've read quite a few posts from both of you in other forums; I value your experience and really appreciate your time answering my question. CA on the lower blank is what I will try. If the pen turns out well I will post a photo in a different forum and see what you and others think.

I get the expansion/mixed media observation and prolly didn't think that through enough. I would have liked to use all wood but I couldn't find a wood blank that was red enough to emulate the color of the ribbon. I'll just have to give my buddy an extended warranty!

Again, thanks gents!
Russ
 

jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
Messages
19,082
Location
NJ, USA.
Thank you both for those suggestions! I've read quite a few posts from both of you in other forums; I value your experience and really appreciate your time answering my question. CA on the lower blank is what I will try. If the pen turns out well I will post a photo in a different forum and see what you and others think.

I get the expansion/mixed media observation and prolly didn't think that through enough. I would have liked to use all wood but I couldn't find a wood blank that was red enough to emulate the color of the ribbon. I'll just have to give my buddy an extended warranty!

Again, thanks gents!
Russ

No problem Russ it should work if you are careful in the turning. As Far as red wood goes. Bloodwood is the redest of woods but it is a deep red. You could always go the dye route on softer woods such as maple or pine. Good luck and look forward to seeing the finished pen. :)
 

WriteON

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Aug 21, 2013
Messages
3,266
Location
S. Florida
Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. A few applications... It's beautiful and protective. Like anything else...follow instruction and patience.
 
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