Finishing Problem

[cwasil]

I seem to be having a problem finishing aromatic cedar and I was wondering if anyone has this problem. I use Behlens and when that fails I go to Mylands Friction. I used to do CA-Blo but it's been awhile and I can always go back to that but only as a last resort. Those fumes hit me every once in awhile and about knock me off my feet. I have occasional problems with other woods but nothing that can't be fixed. This cedar, though, has me stumped. I've tried it on 5 different pens and it seems that I put it on, crap, put on another coat, crap, sand it all off and try it again. I've tried alcohol and blo on the blank before the friction finish...trying to dry it out and clean it up and nothing. Let me know what steps you use or any hints would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[tipusnr]

I've used the Behlen's and Mylands successfully on all of my cedar. I also bring up the shine by using the Bealle buffing system which adds Carnuba wax to the equation. The big thing, for me, is to have a light touch as cedar does not seem to like heat build-up.

 

[ryannmphs]

I have made a few Cedar pens, pencils, and letter openers. One thing that I have found is you must use Denatured Alcohol prior to putting the finish on. So far I have done only BLO/CA finish on cedar.

One thing to try might be to put a sanding sealer on before your finish. I believe that cedar has lots of oil in it, and that may be what's causeing the problems with the finish.

Ryan

 

[GregD]

cwasil,
From my past experience, Cedar is a soft wood like Pine. I have found you sometimes need to seal the grain before trying to put a finish on it. Put a coat of sanding sealer on the Cedar first. It sounds like the Cedar is just sucking in your finish.

 

[jdavis]

Use denatured alcohol before finishing.

 

[JimGo]

I did a cedar cigar a few weeks ago, and it came out pretty good (IMHO). What I did was, once I had turned the blank down, sand once using some 120 grit, then wipe down everything with DNA. Then I did two passes of the CA-slurry as a sanding sealer step, then sanded and finished as usual. I agree with Ryan, I think the oils in the cedar make it not want to take some finishes.

Good luck!

 

[tomwojeck]

Originally posted by tipusnr
<br />I've used the Behlen's and Mylands successfully on all of my cedar. I also bring up the shine by using the Bealle buffing system which adds Carnuba wax to the equation. The big thing, for me, is to have a light touch as cedar does not seem to like heat build-up.

Bill,

When you use the Beall system over top of your friction polishes, do you do all 3 steps? I thought about that, but was concerned that the tripoli/white diamond would tear off the Behlen's.

Thanks,
Tom

 

[PenWorks]

I use just Waterlox tung oil for a finish, I want to smell the cedar, not seal in the aroma.

 

[cwasil]

Thanks for all the ideas...I think I'm going to give a couple a go.

In thinking about it I really like Penworks idea...obviously not the sturdiest of finishes but what sells this product. It's called aromatic cedar for a reason, why cover it up?

The other one I'll give a shot to is DNA and then my Behlens...maybe some CA as a sealer if stills gives me real foggy finishes. Thanks for all the ideas

 

[tipusnr]

I do use all three steps but with a light touch it doesn't take the finish off - only buffs the surface.

I don't use CA finishes, partly because I don't like the "plastic" look and feel, but mostly because I can't get over my fear of gluing body parts to things! It's a personal thing - I don't mean to start "finish wars" all over again!!

 

[tomwojeck]

Originally posted by tipusnr
<br />I do use all three steps but with a light touch it doesn't take the finish off - only buffs the surface.

I don't use CA finishes, partly because I don't like the "plastic" look and feel, but mostly because I can't get over my fear of gluing body parts to things! It's a personal thing - I don't mean to start "finish wars" all over again!!

Bill,

Thanks for your input. I'm in the same boat as you, and I definitely don't want to start the finish wars (sounds like a George Lucas movie[]). I was just never able to master the CA finishes, so I'm always looking for something else. I've used Behlen's, and I just got the Beall system. I've just never tried them together.

Thanks again,
Tom

 

[driften]

Hey guys how does Behlen's compare to Mylands friction polish? They both seem to be about the same does one build better then the other? Also is one more durable then the other?

 

[tomwojeck]

Originally posted by driften
<br />Hey guys how does Behlen's compare to Mylands friction polish? They both seem to be about the same does one build better then the other? Also is one more durable then the other?

Jeff,

From what I've seen, Mylands builds a bit better. By that I mean that you can tell a difference as you add coats. I've tried from 1 to 4 coat of Behlen's and never noticed a difference. I do think the Behlen's polishes to a bit of a glossier finish, and it seems to hold up a bit better. No matter which I use, I always top with a coat of Ren Wax and I've started using a light Beall buff like Tip describes above.

 

[Thumbs]

Tip, what do you mean finish wars? Are those fins up to their old tricks again? You know you can't trust no fins to finish up properly! It's a fact of life those fins are just plain finnicky!

 

[driften]

Thanks Tom. I have been using Bulls Eye French Polish. It seems to fill in fine but I have not noticed a much extra depth with more coats. It seems to hold up fine. I am using Ren Wax on top of that these days. All of these seem to mainly be Shellac with additivies. Since Mylands is billed as a high build polish I was thinking of switching. I like the wood feel to my pens, but I also want depth and gloss.

On the stabilized blanks I have just been MMing to 12000 and then buffing with Tripoli and White Diamond and a top coat of Ren Wax. Are you guys using friction polish on stabilized stuff also?

 

[tomwojeck]

The thing I noticed about the mylands is that it seems to lose its lustre, aftter just a few days, whereas the Behlen's didn't. Again, that's just my observation, I could be doing something wrong.

I have used the Behlens on the stabilized woods too after MMing to 12000 like you. I've also just MM'd to 12000 and then buffed with Tripoli and White diamand and then Ren wax. I didn't see much of a difference shine wise. I'm really starting to like the Beall system.

 

[Daniel]

I have no Mylands or Behlen's but the thought that comes to mind is that the sap of cedar coudl be some pretty rough stuff. like pine sap. I'm wondering what is left behind even after it dries. shellac is suppose to be the impervious finish,(except alcohol)
any wax on bare wood from what I knwo is going to get absorbed so the finish dulls with time. seal the wood and this prevents this from happening, sanding sealer, CA whatever will keep the wax from contacting the wood. just some brainstorming. pick it apart if you want to. I'm not married to any of those thoughts.