Finishing Casein to a Fairly High Gloss ?

[magpens]

I would like to make a two-barrel pen using Casein, and I would like to polish to a high gloss if this is possible.

My internet research suggests that this should be possible.

Just wondering if anyone has done this and can suggest a method.

My usual approach for acrylics is to sand/micromesh to the highest grit, and then polish in 4 steps using: (1) Mequiar's automobile fine scratch remover, (2) Novus 3 acrylic polish, (3) Novus 2 acrylic polish, and, finally (4) Meguiar's Plastix.

I sometimes leave out step (1), depending on the surface quality after the sand/micromesh stage.

Any suggestions, including a totally different approach that works, would be greatly appreciated.

Also, can a more glossy finish result if I use several layers of CA after the lathe-work.

I have never used Casein before. Thanks.

 

[cjester]

I've managed to finish one, and had no trouble getting it to a nice gloss just with micromesh. It looked great for a week, then it cracked.

The others I've tried blew up on the lathe. I've got another blank or two, but it will be a while before I feel like trying them again.

 

[duncsuss]

I just finished a fountain pen (kitless) with a casein barrel and got it to a respectable gloss like this:

* sandpaper -- 320 grit (against a hard backing, to flatten out any ridges) and 400 grit

* micromesh -- brown through gray, wet sanding and rinsing/wiping off between grits

* buff in both directions with tripoli, white diamond, blue compound, Plas-Glo P-22 compoung and finally P-112 compound (the last 3 purchased from Caswell Plating).

 

[magpens]

Thank you Carl and Duncan for your replies.

Duncan, when you say "buff in both directions" do you mean both lengthwise and circumferentially ?

 

[duncsuss]

Thank you Carl and Duncan for your replies.

Duncan, when you say "buff in both directions" do you mean both lengthwise and circumferentially ?

Exactly -- I usually hold the barrel horizontal first (so the scratch pattern is circumferential), then switch to holding it upright (to get a lengthwise scratch pattern).

I guess it doesn't matter too much which order you do it, but I generally like to end with the scratches following either the direction of wood grain or of patterns in the material.

 

[kruzzer]

I have done a couple of casein pens and have used a CA finish. You can get a real high gloss shine and casein can get ink stains on it so the CA protects against that also.

 

[magpens]

Thanks for the tip, Rich. . I never though about ink stains but now recognize that possibility. I think I will use a CA finish, which, of course, can be made glass shiny.

 

[ed4copies]

I have done a couple of casein pens and have used a CA finish. You can get a real high gloss shine and casein can get ink stains on it so the CA protects against that also.

Rich, can I ask how long ago??

I tried CA only a time or two, but I thought it made the Casein "flakey". I have come to believe the best use of casein is as an imbed or in segmenting, because of it's affinity for cracking--but I am willing to change my opinion, if others have had better experiences.

I was recently told that Conway Stewart sold their casein pens in Saudi Arabia (for pretty big bucks) with the caveat that the pen should be stored in the refrigerator to control cracking.

 

[mrburls]

I've done a number of pens using vintage casein and none have cracked for me. And a few I have kept myself. One I used everyday at work for about two years and it has been dropped on concrete floors and metal tables and has not cracked.
If it didn't crack during drilling it has lasted till now.
Keith

 

[kruzzer]

Ed,
it was probably a year ago?? And I can't really remember where I purchased it. I've done both the fau casein and at least what was advertised as "real" casein with out problems.

 

[stuckinohio]

I have made a pen from Casein that I got from mrburls actually. No cracks here, but I didn't use any liquid at all during any of the process.

Very slow drilling and cooling with compressed air. You must keep the heat down at all costs. When I say slow, I mean 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch at a time with a sharp bit. then cool down.
Dry sand 400 to 800.
buff with 4 stage buffing system (library article by TonyL)

This brings a very nice shine. No CA needed.

 

[stuckinohio]

Very hard to photograph this pen, but this one is decent.

 

[magpens]

Thank you, Lewis, for your recommendations.

That is a beautiful pen you posted, and I like the curvy patterns.

Is the Casein actually black ? . Did not know you could get it in black.

 

[magpens]

I just found this thread from 4 years ago:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f28/ebonite-casein-114244/

Seems that finishing with CA is not recommended by Penman1 .... can be the cause of cracking .

 

[PenPal]

Mal I made one using a Roman Harvest. Heat whilst turning is an enemy. As an added touch I popped out the top and made a custom one with the same material.
The finish was skew on the flat then Triple EEE.

Peter.

 

[stuckinohio]

Thank you, Lewis, for your recommendations.

That is a beautiful pen you posted, and I like the curvy patterns.

Is the Casein actually black ? . Did not know you could get it in black.

Morning Mal, it is actually black and grey. This is vintage casein. Casein was made in a lot of patterns and colors it seems. Nice to work with except for my mention of heat. It's only been a couple months since I have gotten it done, but so far, so good.

 

[magpens]

Peter,

That is a truly beautiful pen ... thanks for showing !!

Mal I made one using a Roman Harvest. Heat whilst turning is an enemy. As an added touch I popped out the top and made a custom one with the same material.
The finish was skew on the flat then Triple EEE.