Finish for ice cream scoop
- Thread starter Talltim
- Start date
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monophoto
Member
My general rules for finishing of kitchen utensils are:
1. If the item is intended to touch food, the finish is a simple mineral oil and beeswax.
2. If the item is merely a handle that won't actually touch food, and will rarely be immersed in water, I use varnish - either WOP or a shop-made long-oil varnish made from a commercial spar varnish, pure Tung oil, and turpentine.
1. If the item is intended to touch food, the finish is a simple mineral oil and beeswax.
2. If the item is merely a handle that won't actually touch food, and will rarely be immersed in water, I use varnish - either WOP or a shop-made long-oil varnish made from a commercial spar varnish, pure Tung oil, and turpentine.
BCnabe
Member
CA for me.
mark james
IAP Collection, Curator
jimmyz
Member
Chocolate, but sometimes carmel, nuts, and a cherry!
I'm a little retentive about "food safe" and the general claim that almost everything is food safe once it cures.
At the end of the day most of us are using plastic cutting boards, God alone know what non-stick coated cookware, and all the food come out of plastic bottles and bags to begin with. Our air is so polluted there is a company making money compressing and canning "fresh" air on a remote mountain top in Canada and shipping it worldwide.
The WOP used for the ice cream scoop probably isn't going to negatively affect ones life expectancy.
At the end of the day most of us are using plastic cutting boards, God alone know what non-stick coated cookware, and all the food come out of plastic bottles and bags to begin with. Our air is so polluted there is a company making money compressing and canning "fresh" air on a remote mountain top in Canada and shipping it worldwide.
The WOP used for the ice cream scoop probably isn't going to negatively affect ones life expectancy.
monophoto
Member
My wife would argue that the real risk is with the ice cream itself.
Thud 54963
Member
I find a coat or two of Culver's frozen custard works best. [emoji3]
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WriteON
Member
Lately I'm using BirchWood Casey Tru-Oil on Stoppers. Very durable.
Bikerdad
Member
Acrylic blank.
wolf creek knives
Member
For Mark James: How did you apply the Spar Urethane?
wouldentu2?
Member
I lick it.
Ted iin Michigan
Member
Although I'm tempted to add to the smart a** comments, I'm going to remain aloof and stick to the topic. A very strange phenomenon for me.
I generally wipe handles (scoops, pizza cutters, etc) down with a reduced shellac (like a 1 or 2 pound cut). When dry ill sand with 400. After that I like to use spray polyurethane. Three coats usually does the trick.
And at one time I did question the "safe when cured" claims regarding poly. Someone directed me to the FDA report on the topic. It's very difficult reading but evidently after a lot of testing the Feds came to the same conclusion. Safe when fully cured.
I generally wipe handles (scoops, pizza cutters, etc) down with a reduced shellac (like a 1 or 2 pound cut). When dry ill sand with 400. After that I like to use spray polyurethane. Three coats usually does the trick.
And at one time I did question the "safe when cured" claims regarding poly. Someone directed me to the FDA report on the topic. It's very difficult reading but evidently after a lot of testing the Feds came to the same conclusion. Safe when fully cured.
I'm not fond of how our government performs testing for product and workplace safety. There is a large slant towards industry interests in both the sytemic methodology.
Having said that, I was warning a customer that food safe might not really be safe one day at the end of my shift. I went home to prep dinner and pulled a plastic cutting board out from under the sink. Polyurethane on an ice cream scoop is not nearly as worrisome as solid plastic cutting board IMO and that is what most people are using.