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Finishing It ain't a pen till it's FINISHED!


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Old 01-14-2010, 12:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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I use the William O. Young method of 1 drop med CA + 1 drop BLO. I do about 8 coats of that, then Novus 2 plastic polish. I am pretty happy with that. I could buff, but I don't. Holding the tiny blank agains a flannel well going at 1200 is more excitement than I need. It works for some people, though. Experiment!

Good luck!
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Old 01-14-2010, 12:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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For a CA slurry, once I have a pen turned to final shape I will use 220 grit sandpaper ( I do not want to remove enough material to change the shape) and the lathe on slow speed. I will sand the barrels with the snadpaper on the bottom side of the blanks. I am actually gathering the sawdust on the paper. still holding the sandpaper to the bottom of the blank I apply CA glue tot he top of the blank. the glue combines with the sawdust creating a slurry that fills all the tiny voids or grain in the blank. the CA glue also gets absorbed into the wood itself. This actualy makes the blank a real mess. the Slurry does not apply or dry smoothly. once it dries I then use a fresh piece of 220 grit sandpaper to sand it all smooth again. I do not really want to see any trace of CA on the surface of the blank. basically all you did was filled all grain etc and impregnated the wood with acrylic. this prevents the was from being absorbed later.
If I am going to do a CA finish I will actually polish this blank all the way to 4000 mm minimum. recently I have started just sanding to 600 grit and polishing with a buffer.
Just realize that the CA slurry is a process intended for what it is intended for and that is sealing the wood. from there you have many choices in how to finish.
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Old 01-14-2010, 12:16 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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I hope you don't take my advice the wrong way. I suggest you spend a little time reading on here. Go to FORUMS at the top of page. Click on FINISHING. You will be able to read a lot on CA, CA/BLO and several other methods. Also go to the Library. There are several articles and other information on how to do various finishes.

BTW, if it took one and a half days to apply 4 costs of CA (if i read your post correctly) then there is something wrong.
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Old 01-14-2010, 03:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Just to let you know
the manufacturer of the shellawax paste says it is not intended to be used on pens.
Shellawax glow and burnished in. But will dull with use. I like it sometimes for a more natural finish and tell recipients to occasionally polish with a furniture polish
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Old 01-14-2010, 03:32 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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If you are trying to not spend a lot of money then you don't have to get a buffer, you can just buff the pen on the lathe. After I apply my CA finish and micro mesh through 12000 I use a soft cloth and some plastic polish and buff the pen on the lathe while it is turning. I am new to pen turnign and this is how a local member showed me and it has worked out great for me. I am sure there are some reasons for having a buffer but if you are trying to keep expenses down I think this is a great method. You already have the lathe so all you really need is some soft clothes and polish. The novous polish works well but i have been using some plastic and swirl remover polishes from Walmart and it has been working just fine. I think I spent $15 on the polishes and clothes. Anyway just thought I would give you a low cost alternative to buffing them. If you really want a buffer then you can get that later and it won't upset the misses as much.

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Old 01-14-2010, 06:22 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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As you are perfecting you polising just drill the blank with a 1/4 inch bit, put it on the mandrel and turn it round. Sand it then work with different sealers and finishes. Practice with cheep or free wood. This will let you learn several ways of doing them and you can set them aside to see if the finish holds or fails.
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Old 01-15-2010, 03:09 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimB View Post
I hope you don't take my advice the wrong way. I suggest you spend a little time reading on here. Go to FORUMS at the top of page. Click on FINISHING. You will be able to read a lot on CA, CA/BLO and several other methods. Also go to the Library. There are several articles and other information on how to do various finishes.

BTW, if it took one and a half days to apply 4 costs of CA (if i read your post correctly) then there is something wrong.
Thanks, I will definitely be checking out the library and checking out the articles.

As for the CA taking a day and a half, I didn't have any accelerator and the area I am working in is a little on the cool side at times... between 60 and 65 degrees. Maybe that contributed to the seemingly long cure times for the CA??
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Old 01-15-2010, 03:17 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seawolf View Post
As you are perfecting you polising just drill the blank with a 1/4 inch bit, put it on the mandrel and turn it round. Sand it then work with different sealers and finishes. Practice with cheep or free wood. This will let you learn several ways of doing them and you can set them aside to see if the finish holds or fails.
That's what I've started to do. I bought a bulk mixed-bag of blanks, none of which turned out to be very appealing to the eye but they will do just fine for a little practice. Unfortunately none of the woods are marked and the majority of the wood turned out to be a VERY hard wood to turn - it's hard as a rock!! I'm not sure but it sort of looks like bamboo.
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Old 01-15-2010, 03:33 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fester View Post
Thanks, I will definitely be checking out the library and checking out the articles.

As for the CA taking a day and a half, I didn't have any accelerator and the area I am working in is a little on the cool side at times... between 60 and 65 degrees. Maybe that contributed to the seemingly long cure times for the CA??
I'd say you're right about the temperature causing the long cure time, also some woods are oily to begin with so a wipe down with Accelerator or even Denatured Alcohol helps when using CA.
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Old 01-16-2010, 07:30 AM   #20 (permalink)
 
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More shellac finishes are ruined in the first 2 minutes from handling while it is still warm. It is always best to wait until the next day to assemble the pen, but at least wait until it has cooled to room temperature.

Here is the same thing Daniel said, but with pictures.

http://www.woodturnerruss.com/Pen32.html
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