Epoxy resin
- Thread starter Johnny D
- Start date
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jttheclockman
Member
Most people cast with it. People like pool cue makers use it to top coat their cues so it is possible. You would need a source to keep the blanks moving at a very slow rpm. Again pool cue makers use those rigs but it has been discussed here how easy to make them. Do a search for that.
If doing it remember it builds thicker than CA so you have to take that into account when sizing your blanks. Good luck.
If doing it remember it builds thicker than CA so you have to take that into account when sizing your blanks. Good luck.
BKind2Anmls
Member
American Woodturner Magazine's current issue has an article about using epoxy as a pen finish written by Kurt Hertzog, page 20.
Epoxy finish
Epoxy finish is not a push button finish.
Cut wood .015 under desired finished OD
Dust free Temperature controlled room 75 to 90 F degree room at all times .
West systems 105/207 slow drying marine epoxy ...
Lathe or some way to rotate the pen at 35 to 50 rpm for 24 hrs straight .
You have your pen ready for a finish , its in the lathe and the rpm has been pre set.
You got butcher paper down so you don't drip epoxy all over your lathe .
The room is 75 to 90 degrees F .
Put rice in socks like you wear on your feet .
You need six socks filled with rice .
Put each sock in the micro wave until the rice in the sock is warm or slightly hot.
Wrap the hot or warm socks around the cans of epoxy until the epoxy is warm to the touch .
Don't shake your cans of epoxy either .....................................
Its a 3 parts epoxy to 1 part hardener .
I use plastic disposable mixing cups .
I use a plastic soda straw to put the desired amount of epoxy into the mixing cups , then I pour both parts of epoxy into one of the mixing cups then I pour that cup into a plastic zip lock bag .
Never stir a finish epoxy ,,, it makes bubbles .
massage the epoxy in the zip lock bag for about 5 minutes You are mixing the epoxy as you massage it in the plastic baggie .
DONT MAKE BUBBLES >>>>>>
Then cut a small piece of the corner of the bag and apply it like a cake decorator except the epoxy is water thin .
I use Latex gloves and massage the epoxy into the water pores of the wood .
PS I only sand to 420 ,,, do not sand ebony or dark woods while the lathe is on or across the grain ..........
Always finish sand with the grain ... and if you use fine sand paper or micro mesh on your wood your fired ......
Point being You need the wood pores clean so the epoxy will flow into the wood pores
Putt your first coat of epoxy on, massage the resin into the wood pores, wipe of any excess epoxy, don't worry about putting the epoxy on thick .
You don't want thick coats of epoxy ......
You want Thin coats ............
Bubbles can be a issue .. that why temperature controlled room , epoxy and pen wood .
Some woods make bubbles ,
De bubbling or bursting bubbles.
Take a small butane torch and point the flame about 3 inches above the wood .
This has nothing to do with heating the wood, you are breaking the surface tension of the epoxy to allow the air trapped to escape .
You will have to put more epoxy on where the bubble burst or glove up and wipe the epoxy where the finish is covering everything smoothly .
After 6 hours or when the epoxy has hardened up in the mixing cup or old zip lock baggie , mix up another batch and repeat 3 more times ..
Wait a week for the epoxy to fully cure then sand flush or even the finish surface with 420 grit paper and I use a commercial buffing wheel and meguiar's polishing creams #4 heavy cut , #2 fine cut , and #9 swirl remover, and then meguair's show wax .
Good luck
Epoxy finish is not a push button finish.
Cut wood .015 under desired finished OD
Dust free Temperature controlled room 75 to 90 F degree room at all times .
West systems 105/207 slow drying marine epoxy ...
Lathe or some way to rotate the pen at 35 to 50 rpm for 24 hrs straight .
You have your pen ready for a finish , its in the lathe and the rpm has been pre set.
You got butcher paper down so you don't drip epoxy all over your lathe .
The room is 75 to 90 degrees F .
Put rice in socks like you wear on your feet .
You need six socks filled with rice .
Put each sock in the micro wave until the rice in the sock is warm or slightly hot.
Wrap the hot or warm socks around the cans of epoxy until the epoxy is warm to the touch .
Don't shake your cans of epoxy either .....................................
Its a 3 parts epoxy to 1 part hardener .
I use plastic disposable mixing cups .
I use a plastic soda straw to put the desired amount of epoxy into the mixing cups , then I pour both parts of epoxy into one of the mixing cups then I pour that cup into a plastic zip lock bag .
Never stir a finish epoxy ,,, it makes bubbles .
massage the epoxy in the zip lock bag for about 5 minutes You are mixing the epoxy as you massage it in the plastic baggie .
DONT MAKE BUBBLES >>>>>>
Then cut a small piece of the corner of the bag and apply it like a cake decorator except the epoxy is water thin .
I use Latex gloves and massage the epoxy into the water pores of the wood .
PS I only sand to 420 ,,, do not sand ebony or dark woods while the lathe is on or across the grain ..........
Always finish sand with the grain ... and if you use fine sand paper or micro mesh on your wood your fired ......
Point being You need the wood pores clean so the epoxy will flow into the wood pores
Putt your first coat of epoxy on, massage the resin into the wood pores, wipe of any excess epoxy, don't worry about putting the epoxy on thick .
You don't want thick coats of epoxy ......
You want Thin coats ............
Bubbles can be a issue .. that why temperature controlled room , epoxy and pen wood .
Some woods make bubbles ,
De bubbling or bursting bubbles.
Take a small butane torch and point the flame about 3 inches above the wood .
This has nothing to do with heating the wood, you are breaking the surface tension of the epoxy to allow the air trapped to escape .
You will have to put more epoxy on where the bubble burst or glove up and wipe the epoxy where the finish is covering everything smoothly .
After 6 hours or when the epoxy has hardened up in the mixing cup or old zip lock baggie , mix up another batch and repeat 3 more times ..
Wait a week for the epoxy to fully cure then sand flush or even the finish surface with 420 grit paper and I use a commercial buffing wheel and meguiar's polishing creams #4 heavy cut , #2 fine cut , and #9 swirl remover, and then meguair's show wax .
Good luck
Last edited:
SteveG
Member
Epoxy finish
A epoxy finish very easy if all the conditions is right , doesn't work if any one condition isn't .
Learning curve to it just like all glass like finishes .
I am just not sure if I like the feel of any finish that is thick and glass like on a pen or certain other wood products .
I think it would be push to say all hi end pens must have a gloss or glass like finish.
Straight up ,,
I am looking for some fine figured Koa wood .
I need one piece 1.5 x 2.5 x22 Needs to be a premium piece of wood .
Can you get me pointed in the right direction where I can get exactly what I want ?
Thanks Steve I felt like I was writing a book .
A epoxy finish very easy if all the conditions is right , doesn't work if any one condition isn't .
Learning curve to it just like all glass like finishes .
I am just not sure if I like the feel of any finish that is thick and glass like on a pen or certain other wood products .
I think it would be push to say all hi end pens must have a gloss or glass like finish.
Straight up ,,
I am looking for some fine figured Koa wood .
I need one piece 1.5 x 2.5 x22 Needs to be a premium piece of wood .
Can you get me pointed in the right direction where I can get exactly what I want ?