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Finishing It ain't a pen till it's FINISHED!


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Old 08-01-2017, 10:59 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by mckenziedrums View Post
One thing I never understood when reading posts about pen finishing was the thickness of finish people put on. 10+ coats? Who has time for that?
Well, I can't speak for anyone else, and will say that what "I" do is for my OWN peace of mind. I have tried thick, as well as medium viscosities CA glue which (both) seemed to quickly arrive at a 'plasticized' look (that I did NOT appreciate). Some, like that. But I am in the camp of those who do not. I am not a professional, and do not profess to be. I (personally) do what I do because of having found workability within WHAT, and HOW I do it. I haven't found that top-of-the-mountain finishing method (yet), but feel good about what i'm doing (right now), until such time as I can latch onto whatever method that is.

And, as far as your query about 'Who has the time for that?', is concerned - I have no issue with that (time, that is). I immensely enjoy what I'm doing, in my shop, and would feel that same way even if I never sold another pen.

Just like my turnings will get better, so will my finishing process. It's a matter of learning processes, which translates into growth .
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Old 08-02-2017, 09:02 AM   #22 (permalink)
 
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The time reference was tongue in cheek mostly. Believe me I've learned many a lesson about how you can't rush a finish. Almost destroyed a $400 drum shell once because I was in a hurry.

Finishing is one of those things where you end up finding what works for you and it might not work for anyone else. I offered up my finishing schedule just as an option for those that might want to try it. I'm weird in that I learned wood working backwards and could lay down a smooth finish before I even knew what a rabbet cut was. Most woodworkers I know hate the finishing part where as I don't mind it a bit. Helps to understand WHY you do things rather than just do them.

Good example: 3M heavy cut polishing compound is designed specifically to buff out 1200 grit sanding lines. Why bother sanding up to some insanely high grit just to hit it with a polishin compound designed to smooth out a lower one? If you stop at 1200 or let's even say 2000... you can let the polish do the job the rest of the way. From there you use a finer polish and a softer pad and you're done.
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Old 08-02-2017, 11:51 AM   #23 (permalink)
 
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The time reference was tongue in cheek mostly.
Believe me, I took NO offense in what you had written. In fact, reading back over my post, I can see how the spirit - on what I had responded - could easily have been misconstrued .

As already had been mentioned, I am relatively new to this game. I have tried a few different methods for finishing, and the best one (thus far) is the one that I presently use. Time tested? No. I have done this, anywhere long enough, to have put pens out there - and have someone come back to me, months (or more) later, to comment on how nicely the pen STILL looks. THAT'S the kind of finishing technique that I wish to learn, and adopt.

I've read over YOUR technique, and can say that I am, particularly, drawn to it. I really appreciate your putting it out there, and think that it just may be the ticket, for me.
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Old 08-02-2017, 03:21 PM   #24 (permalink)
 
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mackenziedrums, what kind of glove do you wear while the lathe is turning? Curious. I use paper towels to apply CA, no gloves near any moving machinery.
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Old 08-02-2017, 03:29 PM   #25 (permalink)
 
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Nitrile, I've actually gone to using a single finger cot. It won't bond to the pen like a paper towel can. At 500 rpm's you're not going to lose a finger. (Move the rest just to be safe)
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Old 08-07-2017, 04:10 PM   #26 (permalink)
 
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Thanks for the clarification.
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Old 08-08-2017, 05:19 PM   #27 (permalink)
 
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Reviewed this thread for info on finishing. Couldn't find anything on EEE. Exactly what is it?
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Old 08-08-2017, 05:23 PM   #28 (permalink)
 
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its paste wax with Tripoli (get it, "triple E"). With respect to CA finish, you can effectively use it in place of micromesh or buffing. As was described in some of the responses, the wax will wear off and scratches will start to show. Also, the recommendation to to clean off the wax with DNA worked for me, this showed how clean the finish was minus the wax.

The EEE is good for bowl turners and as a prep step for friction polish. Here is the product website: EEE-Ultra Shine (cut 'n' polish paste wax)
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Old 08-09-2017, 08:34 AM   #29 (permalink)
 
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Thanks.
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