Doctors Wood Shop Pen Finish Tutorial

[BSea]

For resin, Just polish the same as you do for CA. I use the 1st 4 pads of MM then I us a beal buffing system. However, I used to just do MM through all the pads for resin pens

 

[mmayo]

I have completed six pens using Mike's advice on a one direction lathe so no reverse. Thanks! Now I have a non-CA system that works and is almost bullet proof.

 

[mightymavkev]

An update on my experiment. I actually tried Mike's process with the Walnut Oil and Pens Plus treatment first on my antler pens. Mike and I discussed this idea first and neither of us were really sure it would work out too well.

Well, I went ahead and made one and was pretty happy with the results. The bone had a nice gloss. Probably more satin than glossy like with CA, but you could still feel the nooks and crannies. You could tell it was a piece of organic material. That is something I really liked right off the bat.

The real question was how would it last.

So I made a couple test pens and gave to friends who I know will use them moderately (unlike me) and see how they do. That was a couple months (maybe 3 now) ago and while I don't have access to the first one to see with my own eyes, the second one I gave out is holding up very well. In fact I can't notice any signs of wear or fading in the finish or gloss from use like I would notice sometimes on some CA finishes.

Since then I've used this Pens Plus finish approach on all the wood items I've made. Pens. Screwdriver handle. LED Flashlight kits. and even the Travel Mug kit that I turned out of a solid piece of claro walnut. All cases came out great and I think I will no longer use CA on wood again, and likely not on antler very often either.

Thanks Mike for your tutorial.

As a testament to the "practice".. Mike's right. I am finding that as I do this more and more I not only get better results, but it also gets faster - almost second nature to me sort of. At this point it's really just about as efficient as my CA finishes were.

I had 2 main problems that I am still working on (but they're both getting better).

1. The paper towel for me starts to disintegrate before I start getting the gloss equal during both application and buffing steps. This is what I look for per Mike's instructions to know that there's enough build up and your done. There's a purpose to using the same spot on the applicator paper towel over and over for each layer as it helps to smooth and (I think) sort of "burnish" the finish with each application as you go. My problem has been that it falls apart on me before I get to the point where I'm sure the finish is done. I'm working on adjusting speed and amount of Pens Plus on the applicator though and I think it's getting better.

2. The other issue I've run into, again, something that I think will continue to get better with experience, is just knowing how many applications to do until I get to the point that the gloss is pretty much equal both when you apply as well as when you buff. Throughout the process, it dulls a bit when buffing. When the buffing stage seems to leave the same gloss as it had when you applied the last coat, you know you're at the point where the finish is built up enough. For me, it seems to take a really long time to get there - even more than I think Mike intended it to in his instructions - but I've stuck with it and I think getting used to the speed and pressure during buffing and such it is getting better.


Anyway, to each his own, but I would suggest that everyone at least try it on several pens and see what they think. I know it's working for me so I believe it would for many others as well.

Kevin

 

[mark james]

Really cool thread!!!
Thanks guys!

 

[wildbill23c]

I just purchased the high friction polish and the microcrystal finish and have had mixed results, sometimes I get a somewhat nice shine other times can't see any shine at all. I'm sanding to 1000 grit as that's the highest grit sandpaper I've been able to find. What should I change or do to get more consistency in my finishes? How many coats of each product should I apply and in what order is the correct way? The finish then polish or is the other way around?

 

[dtswebb]

Mike,

Thank you for answering my questions to you when this post was first up. I use Pen Plus the way you outlined and it is my finish of choice. My carry pen is still bright, shiny and feels like wood, not plastic. The pens I've sold since starting to use the Pen Plus still look they were just finished and I've had people come back to me to purchase additional pens because they like the way the pen feels in their hands.

For those of us that don't like or don't want to use a CA finish, Pen Plus is a winner. And with practice, applying the finish doesn't take any longer than applying a CA finish.

Matthew

 

[reiddog1]

Great post Mike. Thank you for sharing!!

 

[marksman]

Mike,

Thanks for the info. CA finish results (mainly the random cracking that has been discussed here) has caused me to shy away from wood pens which I absolutely LOVE to turn. I have a question about the finish you describe in the post, how does the finish work on a hybrid blank? I imagine that since you are sanding down to 12000MM that you get a nice shine from the plastic infill material but I thought I would ask.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Mike, Thanks for the info. CA finish results (mainly the random cracking that has been discussed here) has caused me to shy away from wood pens which I absolutely LOVE to turn. I have a question about the finish you describe in the post, how does the finish work on a hybrid blank? I imagine that since you are sanding down to 12000MM that you get a nice shine from the plastic infill material but I thought I would ask.

Great question.

 

[mightymavkev]

Yep, I'm curious about this as well. My guess is that it wouldn't affect the plastic portion one way or the other since it wouldn't penetrate it that much if at all, but would still work on the wood section.

Although I do wonder if the depth of shine would vary between the two.

I have to admit, I haven't done much with the hybrid blanks because they're so expensive, but the few that I did, I used CA just to be safe since the ones I turned (fiji blanks from woodcraft) showed some pretty decent voids between the resin and the wood and I was afraid the wood portions would break loose after turning to pen diameter without the CA finish. Probably me being paranoid, but after spending $20 on a single blank, I wasn't interested in taking any chances.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Yep, I'm curious about this as well. My guess is that it wouldn't affect the plastic portion one way or the other since it wouldn't penetrate it that much if at all, but would still work on the wood section. Although I do wonder if the depth of shine would vary between the two. I have to admit, I haven't done much with the hybrid blanks because they're so expensive, but the few that I did, I used CA just to be safe since the ones I turned (fiji blanks from woodcraft) showed some pretty decent voids between the resin and the wood and I was afraid the wood portions would break loose after turning to pen diameter without the CA finish. Probably me being paranoid, but after spending $20 on a single blank, I wasn't interested in taking any chances.

depending on what you turn, I just don't see how one can eliminate ca completely No oil is going to fill voids.

We all have and will have go to finishes just like we do tools. But experience teaches us that we need the right tool and finish for the particular job.

 

[mightymavkev]

Oh I agree completely.

I guess what I was saying is that since there was a noticeable void along the seam between the wood and plastic, I decided to finish in CA to be safe.

if it would have just been an air hole or something, I would have tried filling with CA and then finishing with Pens Plus.


So, since I didn't try it that one time, I don't know how Pens Plus would do on the plastic on a hybrid.

I'm curious though. If I had $20 to go to Woodcraft tonight, I might just go get one and try it again to see and report my findings.

Hmm.... maybe this weekend.

Kevin

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Oh I agree completely. I guess what I was saying is that since there was a noticeable void along the seam between the wood and plastic, I decided to finish in CA to be safe. if it would have just been an air hole or something, I would have tried filling with CA and then finishing with Pens Plus. So, since I didn't try it that one time, I don't know how Pens Plus would do on the plastic on a hybrid. I'm curious though. If I had $20 to go to Woodcraft tonight, I might just go get one and try it again to see and report my findings. Hmm.... maybe this weekend. Kevin

The blanks of this type that I've done had no gaps or probs between the materials. They were from either El Mostro here or Wayne Ryan

 

[Janster]

Ok I have been doing allot of pen finishing with this finish. I have been telling folks about it for months. I really like this finish and have burned through an entire bottle of it and am on my second. I have done allot of experimenting and will recount below what I do in hopes that it will help others who are allergic to CA like I am. I have also had allot of people ask me so here it is this is what I do.

1. Finish turning a pen then go into sanding mode
2. 240 grit dry sand I always use forward and reverse
3. 320 grit dry sand in reverse then switch to forward and sand some more
4. 400 forward then reverse
5. 600 reverse and then switch to forward and sand some more. This is the end of dry sanding. I use Abranet so I don't wet sand with it.
6. 4000 MM wet sand with Walnut oil forward then reverse
7. 6000 MM wet sand with Walnut oil reverse then forward
8. 8000 MM wet sand with Walnut oil forward then reverse
10. 12000 MM wet sand with Walnut Oil reverse then forward.
11. Use paper towel to really heat things up and buff the walnut oil. It will set the oil.
12. Fold up a paper towel and add a nice drop of Doctors Wood Shop Pen finish on it and apply to the blank don't buff yet I use about 1100 rpm for this
13. Reverse the lathe and apply another drop and apply. Now buff with the other end of t paper towel.
14 Apply another drop to the paper towel I use exactly the same spot every time so I get a soaked spot on the towel this is important and you will see why later.
15. Set the lathe to forward and apply another drop to the same spot again and apply then buff out with the same spot on the other end of the paper towel. You are smoothing the paper towel and it seems to do a better and better job on the finish.
16. Reverse the lathe again and apply another drop and apply and buff
17. Forward again and apply another drop and buff. By now you have noticed that when you apply you see a nice shiny blank but when you buff it dulls just a bit. You need to keep repeating this procedure until you see very little difference between buff and apply once this is achieved.
18. I use the wet spot that I created and leave the lathe in forward and speed things up just a bit maybe 2000 rpms and give a few more applications with what is in the wet spot and buff between. You should see very little difference between the wet and buffed when done. Make sure the last time that you buff that you heat things up a bit to make sure all is set.

I find that with really hard woods you won't need as many applications but with softer woods you may need more. I hope this little tutorial helps you out. Here is a link to Doctors Wood Shop Pen Finish

I hope this helps you all.

DOC-106
Walnut Finishing Oil as a sanding agent before using the PENS Plus? Is this what you are referring to Mike? ...Thanks....Jan

 

[georgestanley032]

Does this compare to CA for durability? I have not found any friction polish that compares.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Does this compare to CA for durability? I have not found any friction polish that compares.

I'm convinced that pens plus is the best friction finish out there.

However, it's not CA. CA has some major strengths and some weaknesses and some want to avoid it. For them, they should take a look at pens plus.

Some like a more natural feel. Pens plus is great for them. Some want a deep gloss and great protection. They should probably stick (pun) with ca.

Personably I use both finishes. And my choice of one over the other isn't about durability. It's about the wood I'm turning and the look I want.

 

[gulfmedic1]

question

can you substitute the walnut oil for BLO

 

[KenV]

can you substitute the walnut oil for BLO

I do and like the results. Less amber color and lower viscosity are two advantages.

 

[gulfmedic1]

thanks KenV

 

[gulfmedic1]

so Mike you use regular Walnut oil and then the Doctors finish on top of that?
sorry just trying to make sure i got it right i really want to try your method your pens are beautiful

 

[Dave Turner]

After reading this thread I decided to try out Dr. Woodshops Pens Plus for myself. Although I get great results from CA and have only minimal reaction to it, I'm always in the market for alternative choices, particularly if they are easier.

Having turned my first seam ripper yesterday, which will be gifted, I dry sanded the Bubinga up to 400 grit as I normally do (sanding each grit first with the lathe on, then along the grain with the lathe off). I then wiped on some walnut oil to see how the grain would look (Mahoney's Walnut Oil from Woodcraft). I wiped off as much of this as I could and then set it by rubbing it with paper towel with the lathe at high speed.

Next I put 3 or 4 drops of Pens Plus on a small 3"x3" square of terry cloth and wiped this on the wood with the lathe turning about 200 rpm. Using the same spot on the cloth, I then friction polished the coating by turning the lathe speed up to 2000 rpm. This whole process took about 30 seconds. I then repeated these steps and put on 3 additional coats of Pens Plus, friction polishing each coat. Total time, about 2 to 3 minutes start to finish.

I've got to admit, I really like the results. A nice semi-gloss finish that has some depth to it. And it can't get any easier, less than 1/4th the work of a CA finish. I'll have to try this on a few pens. While it's not a replacement for a glass-like CA finish, I can see where this will have a place alongside. I thank everyone for bringing this product to my attention.

 

[gulfmedic1]

can you substitute the walnut oil for BLO

I do and like the results. Less amber color and lower viscosity are two advantages.

Ken
what do you complete the finishing with? what process do you use? do you use Mikes?