Doctors Wood Shop Pen Finish Tutorial

[mikespenturningz]

Ok I have been doing allot of pen finishing with this finish. I have been telling folks about it for months. I really like this finish and have burned through an entire bottle of it and am on my second. I have done allot of experimenting and will recount below what I do in hopes that it will help others who are allergic to CA like I am. I have also had allot of people ask me so here it is this is what I do.

1. Finish turning a pen then go into sanding mode
2. 240 grit dry sand I always use forward and reverse
3. 320 grit dry sand in reverse then switch to forward and sand some more
4. 400 forward then reverse
5. 600 reverse and then switch to forward and sand some more. This is the end of dry sanding. I use Abranet so I don't wet sand with it.
6. 4000 MM wet sand with Walnut oil forward then reverse
7. 6000 MM wet sand with Walnut oil reverse then forward
8. 8000 MM wet sand with Walnut oil forward then reverse
10. 12000 MM wet sand with Walnut Oil reverse then forward.
11. Use paper towel to really heat things up and buff the walnut oil. It will set the oil.
12. Fold up a paper towel and add a nice drop of Doctors Wood Shop Pen finish on it and apply to the blank don't buff yet I use about 1100 rpm for this
13. Reverse the lathe and apply another drop and apply. Now buff with the other end of t paper towel.
14 Apply another drop to the paper towel I use exactly the same spot every time so I get a soaked spot on the towel this is important and you will see why later.
15. Set the lathe to forward and apply another drop to the same spot again and apply then buff out with the same spot on the other end of the paper towel. You are smoothing the paper towel and it seems to do a better and better job on the finish.
16. Reverse the lathe again and apply another drop and apply and buff
17. Forward again and apply another drop and buff. By now you have noticed that when you apply you see a nice shiny blank but when you buff it dulls just a bit. You need to keep repeating this procedure until you see very little difference between buff and apply once this is achieved.
18. I use the wet spot that I created and leave the lathe in forward and speed things up just a bit maybe 2000 rpms and give a few more applications with what is in the wet spot and buff between. You should see very little difference between the wet and buffed when done. Make sure the last time that you buff that you heat things up a bit to make sure all is set.

I find that with really hard woods you won't need as many applications but with softer woods you may need more. I hope this little tutorial helps you out. Here is a link to Doctors Wood Shop Pen Finish

I hope this helps you all.

 

[jttheclockman]

Man that is alot of work. Not all people have reverse on their lathes. I know I do not.

My question is how about those that are allergic to walnut oils???

Also is there residue left on there when you go to sell the pen and the person who buys it is allergic to walnut oils. Just thinking out loud.

 

[BSea]

Thanks Mike!

You know what, I think I'll try this tomorrow.:biggrin:

 

[mikespenturningz]

I am a pen maker not a scientist. The guy that makes this is a chemist though. If you don't have reverse you can turn the blank around. This is how I finish my pens and I am sharing it in hopes it will help others. There are lots of important reasons to use reverse I am sorry if you don't have it but those that do can achieve an excellent finish that I have not duplicated in forward only. I made lots of pens using my shopsmith and only had forward. For instance when you apply the finish in one direction you fill grain areas in the wood but you only get the finish in one side of the grain. When you reverse you get the other side of the grain and so on this leaves you with a much smoother finish than one direction only. I do put my finishing technique in my sales add so it is publicized that it has Walnut oil in the finish. Walnut oil in 1 of only 2 oils that actually set up and dry according to the Chemist that developed this finish.

Man that is alot of work. Not all people have reverse on their lathes. I know I do not.

My question is how about those that are allergic to walnut oils???

Also is there residue left on there when you go to sell the pen and the person who buys it is allergic to walnut oils. Just thinking out loud.

 

[RMayoIII]

I've been wondering how your pens always have an amazing finish to them. Thanks for explaining the mystery! I don't have reverse on my lathe either but I still think I'm going to try out done of that doctors wood finish.

 

[jttheclockman]

I am a pen maker not a scientist. The guy that makes this is a chemist though. If you don't have reverse you can turn the blank around. This is how I finish my pens and I am sharing it in hopes it will help others. There are lots of important reasons to use reverse I am sorry if you don't have it but those that do can achieve an excellent finish that I have not duplicated in forward only. I made lots of pens using my shopsmith and only had forward. I do put my finishing technique in my sales add so it is publicized that it has Walnut oil in the finish.

Man that is alot of work. Not all people have reverse on their lathes. I know I do not.

My question is how about those that are allergic to walnut oils???

Also is there residue left on there when you go to sell the pen and the person who buys it is allergic to walnut oils. Just thinking out loud.

Mike I mean nothing by my statement and I realize you are stating how you have come to use this product which is great that you are sharing your method. Just wanted to make a point that there are people who are allergic to walnut woods and can not work with them as is also other woods. But there are people who are allergic to walnut oil as well and was wondering if there is any lingering effect of the use after it is finished. As with CA, polyurethane, and lacquers they cure to a hard finish. Maybe there is some poly in the finish and it too cures hard as does Danish oil. Interesting.

 

[mikespenturningz]

It contains Walnut oil, Shellac and some sort of micro wax. Like I said I am definitely not a chemist but the guy that makes it is. He has a lot of stuff on the site about the chemistry that goes into it. I know I thought I was finished with pens when I became allergic to the CA and I worked very hard to make my pens world class and they are getting there slowly but surely.

I am a pen maker not a scientist. The guy that makes this is a chemist though. If you don't have reverse you can turn the blank around. This is how I finish my pens and I am sharing it in hopes it will help others. There are lots of important reasons to use reverse I am sorry if you don't have it but those that do can achieve an excellent finish that I have not duplicated in forward only. I made lots of pens using my shopsmith and only had forward. I do put my finishing technique in my sales add so it is publicized that it has Walnut oil in the finish.

Man that is alot of work. Not all people have reverse on their lathes. I know I do not.

My question is how about those that are allergic to walnut oils???

Also is there residue left on there when you go to sell the pen and the person who buys it is allergic to walnut oils. Just thinking out loud.

Mike I mean nothing by my statement and I realize you are stating how you have come to use this product which is great that you are sharing your method. Just wanted to make a point that there are people who are allergic to walnut woods and can not work with them as is also other woods. But there are people who are allergic to walnut oil as well and was wondering if there is any lingering effect of the use after it is finished. As with CA, polyurethane, and lacquers they cure to a hard finish. Maybe there is some poly in the finish and it too cures hard as does Danish oil. Interesting.

 

[jttheclockman]

It contains Walnut oil, Shellac and some sort of micro wax. Like I said I am definitely not a chemist but the guy that makes it is. He has a lot of stuff on the site about the chemistry that goes into it. I know I thought I was finished with pens when I became allergic to the CA and I worked very hard to make my pens world class and they are getting there slowly but surely.

I am a pen maker not a scientist. The guy that makes this is a chemist though. If you don't have reverse you can turn the blank around. This is how I finish my pens and I am sharing it in hopes it will help others. There are lots of important reasons to use reverse I am sorry if you don't have it but those that do can achieve an excellent finish that I have not duplicated in forward only. I made lots of pens using my shopsmith and only had forward. I do put my finishing technique in my sales add so it is publicized that it has Walnut oil in the finish.

Man that is alot of work. Not all people have reverse on their lathes. I know I do not.

My question is how about those that are allergic to walnut oils???

Also is there residue left on there when you go to sell the pen and the person who buys it is allergic to walnut oils. Just thinking out loud.

Mike I mean nothing by my statement and I realize you are stating how you have come to use this product which is great that you are sharing your method. Just wanted to make a point that there are people who are allergic to walnut woods and can not work with them as is also other woods. But there are people who are allergic to walnut oil as well and was wondering if there is any lingering effect of the use after it is finished. As with CA, polyurethane, and lacquers they cure to a hard finish. Maybe there is some poly in the finish and it too cures hard as does Danish oil. Interesting.

It is probably the shellac that is making it a hard finish then and pulling it all together. So with the use of shellac that should seal it. Cool. Glad it is a finish you can use and hopefully others. Many people are still looking for that perfect finish in many aspects of woodworking, not only pen making. The pens you been putting out sure show signs of a good finish. It is another tool in the tool bag as they say.

 

[Holz Mechaniker]

As I understand, it is the proteins in the oil that can create and cause reactions. Now the main thing I want to state that there is Walnut oil for cooking and salads, and then there is the walnut oil for wood finish has been processed, and heated so to remove those proteins that causes issues.

 

[jttheclockman]

As I understand, it is the proteins in the oil that can create and cause reactions. Now the main think I want to state that there is Walnut oil for cooking and salads, and then there is the walnut oil for wood finish has been processed, and heated so to remove those proteins that causes issues.

I am sure the person has done his studies on how to process it and use it safely. I do know a person who can not use walnut oil as a finish because they are allergic to it. He would love to use it because of its properties in that it dries clear and does not amber or hide the grain as linseed oil or danish oil can do. Probably something like the difference between linseed oil and boiled linseed oil. The properties are broken down.

 

[raar25]

Does this compare to CA for durability? I have not found any friction polish that compares.

 

[jyreene]

Does this compare to CA for durability? I have not found any friction polish that compares.

Ditto. I'd be curious.

 

[mikespenturningz]

I have had my carry pen in with me for a year now and it is still in good condition. I cannot say how long CA lasts I know that it is plastic and it is prone to scratch.

 

[MikeL]

Your pens are impressive. Thanks for an alternative finishing method. It took me about two months of finishing with CA to realize my sinus issues were not allergies or sawdust or the accelerator, it was the CA. I still use it occasionally. I am glad to see a technique that uses something other than CA with stunning results such as your pens. Thanks

 

[BSea]

Your pens are impressive. Thanks for an alternative finishing method. It took me about two months of finishing with CA to realize my sinus issues were not allergies or sawdust or the accelerator, it was the CA. I still use it occasionally. I am glad to see a technique that uses something other than CA with stunning results such as your pens. Thanks

I have the same issue with CA. about 2 days after using CA, I wake up at night & can't breath through my nose. I mean not even a little bit. I now use an organic respirator with CA. In fact, when I'm in the shop I use it almost all the time just for dust control. But when i do a really heavy CA job because of voids, or I'm doing several pens, the fumes will attack my sinuses through my eyes, and I have the same problem, although not so bad.

So I've been looking for a solution, and came across the Pen Plus product from Doctors Wood Shop. I've used it on several pens, and although I'm not unhappy with the results, but I'm thinking Mike's tutorial will make a difference. I'll let you know soon. I'm finishing a pen right now, and just stopped so I could come print out his instructions.

 

[JohnGreco]

I actually keep my respirator on the kitchen counter (VERY supportive wife!) and don't go into the shop without putting that on first (along with my prescription safety glasses). I can say I've been fortunate enough to not smell any CA fumes while wearing that, and if I have my face shield on & down still from being at the lathe the fumes only ever go into my eyes when the bottom edge hangs over where I'm applying it. That stings, but I use CA almost daily and I would say that happens maybe 2x a month.

That said, it seems this is a great alternative to CA. Thanks for taking the time to write it up, Mike.

 

[BSea]

Ok, I finished the pen. I did run into a small mishap. When I was buffing, I guess I got it too hot, and the paper towel stuck to the blank. I had to go back to 600 to get off all the pieces of paper towel. I guess the shellac caught it just at the right time. But other than that, no issues at all.

Below are 3 pens I'm making for "Pens for the Troops". I did nothing to the photos other than to crop & resize. All the pens were wiped with a soft cloth before being photographed. About the only thing different was the 1st pen had a more open grain, and was more red. Looking at the cocobolo CBs in all 3 pics. They look similar to me as far as shine. Other than that, I do think Mike's method is a big improvement as far as getting a higher gloss finish than the way I used the finish initially.

Thanks Mike!!

The 1st is Mike's method.

Next is CA.

Finally is just Pens Plus without the walnut oil sanding. I basically used 3 or 4 coats like the video from the website showed.

 

[Holz Mechaniker]

The main thing about CA that made me stop using it was learning that it will wear off because of human biology. So I refrain from using it as much as possible.
Will I use Doctors? Maybe the oil but not pen finish. I have my own method and It works well.

 

[mredburn]

I also use the Doctors wood shop products when I want a more natural sheen/shine on wood. I have a couple of friends I make pens for that dont like ca finishes at all.

 

[OOPS]

Thanks for posting your findings, Mike. The owner of Doctor's visited our local Woodcraft and created interest in the various products. However, some of the local pen turners weren't able to duplicate the results. We will discuss your method at the next club meeting and see if we can't get similar results. I am sure the whole club will be appreciative of your efforts.

 

[Scruffy]

Couple questions

How do you like the result on open grain woods?

I quess I'm too lietral some time. I went to the Doctors site looking for "Doctors Wood Shop Pen finish". I can't seem to find that one

I found Walnut Finishing Oil and Pens Plus. Are these the two products you are referring in your description?

And you say walnut oil specifically in your text as you are wet sanding. Is this staight walnut oil also a product from Doctors Workshop?

You have gotten my interest. I want to make sure I get the right products.

 

[mmayo]

Definitely worth a try. Thanks

 

[Scruffy]

Walnut oil products..

So far I have been very pleased with the result.

I have had some anomalies that were easily corrected from time to time. But they were much easier to correct than if they had occurred with CA.

I have found a situation that I take kinda a mixed approach.

I have a hard time getting a non pitted finish if I am using an opened grained wood. So if I want a highly polished surface for an opened grain wood using walnut oil based products, I do the following

1. Sand proud of final size say +.01.
2. Use thin CA as grain sealer.. 2-3 coats
3. Sand down to +.005 proud.
4. Check for grain. If grain still shows Add more thin CA. Add more This CA coats, Sand back down.
5. If grain finishes smooth, then complete sanding to proper size. This should take you down to wood and grain filled.
6. Apply desired walnut oil finish

I have had mostly nice results. Some unacceptable results too. Still trying to figure out how to completely nail the process down. Some woods absorb the CA deeper than others.

 

[mikespenturningz]

Why is it so important to hide all the grain from a piece of wood? It is part of the texture of wood. I think the walnut oil will actually seal the wood? Then the finish will protect it. All I know is this is how I do it and others will improve on it and hopefully share.

 

[Deadhead]

Mike,

The finish on your pens appears to be a satin finish, it's hard to tell from the photos.
How long does your process take?

Beautiful pens by the way.

Ben

 

[mikespenturningz]

It really doesn't take any longer to finish a pen my way than it does to finish with say 10 coats of CA. The finish is not quite as shinny as CA but not all that far from it either. I like feeling the wood too.

For those that don't tolerate CA like me it was the difference between continuing on or not with pen making. If I have to wrap my self in protection from head to foot then I would find something else to do.

 

[raar25]

As expected it does not appear the walnut oil gives the same deep finish as CA. Looking at the pens in Bobs pictures above, I definately see a difference. So the search goes on for the ultimate non-CA finish. Think I will look at the water based polys again, I never thought of rubbing in a finish with sandpaper so I am going to have to try this.

 

[mikespenturningz]

Why do you think the finish has to be thick or as shinny as CA? There are some folks here that use a dip method? Maybe that would suit you better? Are you also using the pen finish or just the walnut oil? I have posted 100's of pens with this finish and am happy with it and so are my customers. Finding just the right finish is certainly an adventure. I tried 2 or 3 other methods before I came to this one. Also don't forget you are not going to get your best finish the first time you try it.

Mike

As expected it does not appear the walnut oil gives the same deep finish as CA. Looking at the pens in Bobs pictures above, I definately see a difference. So the search goes on for the ultimate non-CA finish. Think I will look at the water based polys again, I never thought of rubbing in a finish with sandpaper so I am going to have to try this.

 

[BSea]

As expected it does not appear the walnut oil gives the same deep finish as CA. Looking at the pens in Bobs pictures above, I definately see a difference. So the search goes on for the ultimate non-CA finish. Think I will look at the water based polys again, I never thought of rubbing in a finish with sandpaper so I am going to have to try this.

I think finishes are like pen types. There are fountain pens, rollerballs, ballpoints, pencils, stylus . . . etc. there are CA finishes, friction, tung oil. . . . I think you get the idea. Personally, I like a more natural finish. But a high gloss, glass like finish is nice too. So do the finish you like, but it doesn't hurt to have options to offer potential customers. And this method is a good option to offer. At least that's my personal opinion. YMMV

 

[Deadhead]

Mike,

The MM and Abranet.

Do you use the sheets or pads?
If you use the sheets, do you discard both the MM and Abranet after each use use, or do you re-use each?

Ben

 

[mikespenturningz]

I definitely reuse them over and over. They are both way to expensive to just use and toss.
I use the sheets of abranet but you can use any sort of abrasive you want. You do need to use the MM though. I use a paper towel and wipe the walnut oil off after using it.

Mike,

The MM and Abranet.

Do you use the sheets or pads?
If you use the sheets, do you discard both the MM and Abranet after each use use, or do you re-use each?

Ben

 

[mikespenturningz]

One other thing really needs to be stressed here guys. You will not get the same finish I get on your first pen. My tutorial is a guide and you will improve on it if you stick with it. It has taken me more than 100 pens to get to the point where I am at now maybe even 200. You cannot expect to purchase this or any product and get the exact same results on your first few pens. It take time to get an eye for what is happening with this or with CA. I am not getting the best finish with this product that it is capable of giving practice and adjustment is what is needed to get better at anything. Anyone can make and sell a $20 pen. But can you make and sell a $200 dollar pen on your second try? Probably not. How about a $2000 pen? This is the difference between practice and getting better and a beginner. If you only do one thing that is fine but stretch yourself and you get better and better. Then next thing you know you are starting to sell better and better pens and the quality shows. Don't give up after a single try at something if it was easy everyone would do it. I am posting up this and other tutorials to help give you guys a jump start. I don't have anything to do with this finish other than purchasing it and learning how to get the most out of it. Don't debate about the process it is the way I finish every pen that I make from wood it is not debatable. Instead improve on it and post it or ask questions. Don't try it once and forget it. BTW I do sell $200 pens and will sell $2000 before I am done will you? Keep on getting better and let experience guide you and you all will I am sure of it.

 

[jttheclockman]

Mike do us a favor, please, and don't forget us when you start selling $2000 pens And please post a few of them so it gives us something to strive for.

 

[OOPS]

Mike: I just wanted to let you know that I have circulated your information to a few of my penturning colleagues and it has generated a good bit of discussion. Your later post is excellent, stating that you will never be a pro at friction polish or any other type of finish after only a few attempts. I would imagine that none of my local penturner friends have done more than 20 friction finishes a piece, before moving to other techniques.

However, several members have been in search of a finish method that looks more like natural wood and lacks the "plastic" look and feel of CA. So we will start experimenting and let you know how things go. Thank you so much for posting this.

 

[Deadhead]

No Mike; I don't expect to get the same results as you from the get go. Looking at your work, you obliviously know what you're doing. I'm just looking for a finish that is decent looking, can be applied in a reasonable amount of time, that is not a pain to apply, and still be able to feel the texture of the wood. Friction polishes don't last. CA; while it looks good, it has a plastic feel and is starting to seem more trouble than it is worth; and I have only be doing it since February, (not to mention the potential health hazards, and in your case allergic reaction). I've been playing around with WTF and it's been hit or miss so far.

Ben

 

[Wildman]

Walnut oil as a finish simple to apply and obtain a satin finish. Both Mahoney's & Doctors walnut oils merely salad oil. Some woodturners prefer to get their walnut oil from health or artist supply stores.

Doctor's woodshop pens plus product very similar to Hut's Crystal Coat finish available from many vendors. Like most shellac, oil/wax mixes expect some fade back because unlike film finishes you do not get a buildup of finish on wood. Yes, these finishes will appear shinier on closed grain woods. Open grain or diagonal grain (pen blanks cut diagonally) woods will sop up more finish.

Neither pure walnut oil nor oil shellac wax products afford much protection from scratches and benefit from reapplications over time. Have a button click pen made nine years ago other than some fade back looks like day made. I posted a picture of it here last year.

If want a totally green finish use pure walnut or Tung oil finish on close grain woods. Forget about reapplication one pen/pencil assembled.

Shellac & BLO not considered a green finish.

 

[srs64]

Wonderful thread for a novice like myself and well detailed

Sherman

 

[jcm71]

Mike,
Wow, what an excellent post. I'm beginning to have some CA issues as well and am going to try your method. A couple of questions if you don't mind. How much walnut oil do you use when wet sanding? Immersed or just a puddle on the pad? Also, how often do you have to clean your MM? Thanks again.

John

 

[mikespenturningz]

Just a few drops on the pad. You will get the amount as you do it but start with just a few drops. I use all MM now for this sanding the abranet is just not conducive to wet sanding.

Mike,
Wow, what an excellent post. I'm beginning to have some CA issues as well and am going to try your method. A couple of questions if you don't mind. How much walnut oil do you use when wet sanding? Immersed or just a puddle on the pad? Also, how often do you have to clean your MM? Thanks again.

John

 

[healeydays]

I know I'm late to this party, and I thank Mike S for the writeup, but what do folks do with resin based pens? I too have a problem with CA and have been happy with the finish using MM but I want to hear from the pros...

Mike B