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Finishing It ain't a pen till it's FINISHED!


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Old 12-10-2010, 08:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Default Crack'n a perfect blank

So you go through all of the work to get your blank perfect. TBC, Sand, Micro Mesh, multiple coats CA, sand, and polish. Now the critical step comes to get the fricken bushings off the beautifully finished blank and although you take great care, your CA finish cracks and the CA on the bushings pulls off a piece of CA on the blank so that you have bare wood..: {

I've slowly perfected (or nearly) every other part of pen turning but this final step.

I've tried the derlin bushings only to have similar issues, I even try to use a parting tool very lightly on the bushings to "separate" the bushing from the blank. I get the same outcome, and my derlin bushings keep getting smaller

Does anyone have a tried and true method?

Thanks,
Dude
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Don't use the bushings for applying the finish, just put the barrel between centers with just enough pressure and finish as you usually would.
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by barrysj View Post
So you go through all of the work to get your blank perfect. TBC, Sand, Micro Mesh, multiple coats CA, sand, and polish. Now the critical step comes to get the fricken bushings off the beautifully finished blank and although you take great care, your CA finish cracks and the CA on the bushings pulls off a piece of CA on the blank so that you have bare wood..: {

I've slowly perfected (or nearly) every other part of pen turning but this final step.

I've tried the derlin bushings only to have similar issues, I even try to use a parting tool very lightly on the bushings to "separate" the bushing from the blank. I get the same outcome, and my derlin bushings keep getting smaller

Does anyone have a tried and true method?

Thanks,
Dude
Wax the bushings before you start. Then, when you apply the CA, if you wait until each layer is completely cured, you can loosen the mandrel slightly, and break the bushing from the pen, then, retighten the mandrel and apply the next layer of CA.

I don't own Delrin bushings (yet). I am coveting the conical bushings that one of the members here sells (Johnny CNC if my memory serves me right; who was recently in an accident; we are all pulling for him).

Best,

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Old 12-10-2010, 08:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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I use Johnny's conical delrins, love them
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Don't use the bushings for applying the finish, just put the barrel between centers with just enough pressure and finish as you usually would.
+1

I end up gluing the blank to the centers, but I cut the glue before removing and then trim the barrels - before final sanding and polishing
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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I haven't used a mandrel in years. but Johnny convinced me to get his mandrel finishing bushings. I have had no issues using them. I turn oon the steel bushings TBC. Then sand on the delrin TBC bushings and then move it to the mandrel with his finishing bushings for the CA finish. So far it works fine. I occassionally, but rarely get a white spot under the finish at the end of the tube. Sometimes I can drip some thin ca behind the ca (it has separated due to moisture) and it fixes it. But now i make sure I over lap my finish to the edges of the wood so that when I wet sand I dont get that problem anymore and then when I am completely finished I use a sanding mill and clean up the ends and then assemble the pen.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Don't use the bushings for applying the finish, just put the barrel between centers with just enough pressure and finish as you usually would.
How do you sand off the "rounded" edges that get left by going bushingless? I've tried with my disk sander ( used for squaring the blanks), but it can cause cracks on the edge of the blank due to the high grit count and force.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Here's what I use. UHMW cones. Cut a block, drill 1/4" hole, mount on the mandrel and turn into a cone. CA will chip right off as it doesn't penetrate or just soak in some acetone.

When you remove the pen section you will have some excess at the cone but they'll pop right out. I use a sandinig disk on a dremal to trim up. I use the same setup for buffing. The coned shape lets you get to the ends. I find a bags of assorted pieces at my local Woodcraft.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barrysj View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hunter-27 View Post
Don't use the bushings for applying the finish, just put the barrel between centers with just enough pressure and finish as you usually would.
How do you sand off the "rounded" edges that get left by going bushingless? I've tried with my disk sander ( used for squaring the blanks), but it can cause cracks on the edge of the blank due to the high grit count and force.
I guess I feel you answered your own question. Use finer grit paper, you are dealing with a very thin edge, unless you are gooping the ca on a lot thicker than me I see no need for "rough" paper to do the job. My opinion, others may vary, hope it helps.
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Last edited by hunter-27; 12-10-2010 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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I have an old oval skew that I never use for turning (never could use it as good as a flat skew) so I keep a good sharp point on it and use it similar to what you were doing with the parting tool. The good thing about the skew is it doesn't take down your bushings.
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