Finishing a Amboyna burl blank and there is one spot about the size of a nickel where no matter what I do the CA stays tacky. I have sanded down to wood twice and tried cleaning with Denatured alcohol. Still remains tacky even if use accelerator. I left lathe running after one coat of thin CA and let cure for 45 minutes. Still tacky when I came back. HELP!
CA will not cure in one spot
- Thread starter Gdakins
- Start date
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jttheclockman
Member
There maybe a fungus in the wood that will prevent it from drying. I would try wiping with Acetone and not alcohol. You do not want to add water to it. May have to coat with wax free shellac first to seal it.
robutacion
Member
Oil, that the natural oils that the Rosewood has, in some cases it can be extreme where nothing will adhere. Cleaning it with acetone, if the are is saturated with oil won't resolve the issue and you many never get rid of it and have to resort to use wood oils as the finish to blend in its naturals oils.
There is one way to Crystalise/solidify oils in woods, such as Olivewood, Rosewoods and many others but I'm not sure this would be a solution for you from the stage you have that pen barrel at, the systems is to "roast" the wood in a fan forced oven (they work better) at least 90° Celsious for 2 or 3 full days.
The wood will get very hot but not burning, all the natural oils in the wood cells start to be hardened into very small crystals that become solid and therefore making the wood "dry" for all purposes and intents.
To note that, there are disadvantages with attempting to toast wood to crystallise it's natural oils and that is, if the wood is not sufficiently dry, to possibility crack or warp, that will also depend upon the size of the blank to be worked on.
Does it work..??? yes it does, I do it all the time with some Olive wood that I want to cast and or stabilise.
Good luck,
Cheers
George
There is one way to Crystalise/solidify oils in woods, such as Olivewood, Rosewoods and many others but I'm not sure this would be a solution for you from the stage you have that pen barrel at, the systems is to "roast" the wood in a fan forced oven (they work better) at least 90° Celsious for 2 or 3 full days.
The wood will get very hot but not burning, all the natural oils in the wood cells start to be hardened into very small crystals that become solid and therefore making the wood "dry" for all purposes and intents.
To note that, there are disadvantages with attempting to toast wood to crystallise it's natural oils and that is, if the wood is not sufficiently dry, to possibility crack or warp, that will also depend upon the size of the blank to be worked on.
Does it work..??? yes it does, I do it all the time with some Olive wood that I want to cast and or stabilise.
Good luck,
Cheers
George
tonylumps
Member
I do a lot of scroll work.I had a lot of problems with these exotic woods I always use natural wood finish.How I stopped the problems with oily woods was Spray dewaxed shellac.2 coats then lightly sand and you should be good to go.Shellac is a good sealer for any top coat.
Woodchipper
Member
Not an expert on wood finishes but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once. Would boiled linseed oil work in this case? Curious.
jttheclockman
Member
No you are adding oil to it. You want to eliminate water and oils so that CA will adhere to it. Hope your stay at the Holiday was an enjoyable one.:biggrin::biggrin: They will keep the lights on for you.
Monty
Group Buy Coordinator
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Last edited:
jttheclockman
Member
edstreet
Member
For the record CA does not 'dry, it polymerizes and it will not stick to some surfaces, i.e. Teflon, the plastic bottle they are in. Also acidic spots will behave this way as well. If there are impurities in the blank I.e. Tannins, that will cause problems down the road and failures.