CA THICK glue (BAD)

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

Ray1955

Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2016
Messages
33
Location
Myrtle Beach Sc
I put my bushings on the mandrill and inserted my blank and applied a
SHELL WAX and over the top used a CA Thick adhesive since I had no thing.

Well.....I put the thick on and it didn't even buff out nicely.

Worst part was trying to get the end bushing off.

I saw on line you can use an ACETONE.....wife had fingernail polish remover.
I used it liberally.......I wanted to get this off didn't want to ruin an expensive Mandrell.

Then I used a utility knife between the blank and the bushing and went all the way around........still no luck.

took small pair of vice grips, set mandrill on end and hit the vice grips in downward motion to see if I could break it loose and it worked.

I WILL NEVER DO THIS AGAIN.

Ray
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

Curly

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2010
Messages
4,828
Location
Saskatoon SK., Canada.
Paste wax your mandrel and bushings and the CA won't stick. Secondly applying CA on to a friction polish isn't always a good idea because the polish may have various amounts of wax in it that can affect the curing of the CA. Just use CA start to end.
 

Ray1955

Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2016
Messages
33
Location
Myrtle Beach Sc
Thank you

Thanks CURLY.....will do

I am going to harbor freight as one of the people on this web site mention
they have superglue that will do the same thing as CA.


Ray
 

geffre

Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2006
Messages
56
Location
Glyndon, 56547, United States
Also, Starbond has a great deal on CA glue in all types of thicknesses. 6 bucks for 2 ounces is a good deal, but 32 for 16 ounces is great. I go through CA these days really quickly because I love the finish it gives. If I have a problem, I pull out the 60 gouge, clean off the clumps and start again. And since I tend to pick the punkiest, worm-hole-iest wood to make some of my pens, I cannot help but use the CA to keep the wood together.
I will also use wax, but AFTER I put on the CA and cure it. that gives it a shine and a warm feel.
Geffre
 

chrisk

Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2009
Messages
822
Location
Brussels, Belgium
I had such issues also some time ago, when I used a mandrel to turn/finish my pens. A few years ago, following the advice of an IAP colleague, I turn between centers, that is without a mandrel, using dedicated bushings I ordered from John Goodin, another IAP member. John has stopped making such bushings but I think another colleague here (nickname Nikitas) is offering between centers bushings.
As for finishing, I don't use any bushings at all, finishing my pens between a 60° dead center on the headstock and a 60° revolving center on the tailstock. The colleague who suggested the latter technique cleaned regurlarly his dead and revolving centers with a skew. I did the same up to a certain point but now I simply clean the CA amass with acetone.
Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:

Flush1974

Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2013
Messages
79
Location
St Petersburg, Florida USA
Good Day Ray,

I have done similar things in the past. I went to WoodCraft the other day and bought some of their Super Solvent, 2-oz. It works great for getting the CA off my parts and digits.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/satellite-city-super-solvent-2-oz

As for getting the bushing off, I have used a razor blade and rolled the bushing and the tube on a hard surface to make sure I get all the way around. Once you have scored the CA you should be able to tap the bushing on a hard surface and the CA will break on the scored portion. I have also used a disassembly punch to pop them out when I only have one stuck. This makes sure you don't crack the surface of your CA on the blank. Then I just take my pen mill and square it up before sanding, just so I ensure my blank edges are rounded and not sharp.
 
Top Bottom