CA stains wood

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

TurtleTom

Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
701
Location
Checotah, Oklahoma 74426
I was trying to stabilize some spalted oak with CA to prevent fly-offs. The wood was very white sapwood and I didn't realize the CA would stain it an orangish color. It even did it with 2 different CA brands. I would have preferred the white but the stain did bring out some grain that I couldn't see previously.
I suppose this is the reason you guys use Cactus Juice to stabilize. Well, now I'm working on that too. Need a vessel and a pump I suppose, and oh yeah, a cactus.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

Skie_M

Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
2,737
Location
Lawton, Ok
Hmmm .... My guess would be that the CA carried some pigments of the spalted oak out onto the whiter sections of wood ... the CA also darkens things a bit, giving it a "water wet" appearance. This is normal, of course, for CA and most other liquid finishes. Cactus juice would do the same thing, but to a lesser degree, as the oak tannins (which are the ingredient responsible for the orangish color) will be much more diluted in a bucket of juice rather than just spread out on the surface in more concentrated form.

You can try washing your spalted oak to get rid of those surface deposits of tannin before trying either method again, and see if that fixes the issue.

You can also simply keep going, knowing that the surfaces stained by the tannins will be turned away as you work, and you will only need to wipe your blank down and seal it one last time right before finish sanding your barrels.
 

TurtleTom

Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
701
Location
Checotah, Oklahoma 74426
Thanks Skie, but turning it down doesn't help, the color goes all the way through, pretty quick. I figured I'd glue the larger diameter to prevent blowout and then when I got closer to the actual size I'd have to do it again, but voila, it went all the way to the tube. But keep in mind this is red oak which has tubular pores. A red oak glass won't hold water.
I'm now wondering how much is staining upward from the glue on the tube from the initial glue-up.
Now I suppose I have to try it with some of my treasured holly since it has closed pores.
Wow George, just saw that post. Gotta try that, I've got mineral oil. And those are some nice vases on your webpage.
I've always thought it strange they don't tell you from which mineral they got the mineral oil.
 
Last edited:

Skie_M

Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
2,737
Location
Lawton, Ok
Hmm ... you could try washing those oak blanks down with water or denatured alcohol before drilling and gluing ... or even right after drilling and before gluing. Worst comes to worst, you could mix up some ebonizing elixir and just go at it ... make it nice and black. :)

Good luck with it ... sounds like a frustrating problem. I haven't dealt with spalted wood just yet, so I have no experience like this to draw from.
 

TurtleTom

Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
701
Location
Checotah, Oklahoma 74426
Hmm ... you could try washing those oak blanks down with water or denatured alcohol before drilling and gluing ... or even right after drilling and before gluing. Worst comes to worst, you could mix up some ebonizing elixir and just go at it ... make it nice and black. :)

Good luck with it ... sounds like a frustrating problem. I haven't dealt with spalted wood just yet, so I have no experience like this to draw from.

I'm already doing the black. I call it home-made bog oak. If you time it right you can get some nice effects with it not going all the way through.

Anyone know why my icons only show up in the title line and not in the main body? It doesn't matter if the cursor is in the main body or not, the big grin goes to the title.
 

Sabaharr

Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2009
Messages
598
Location
Slidell, LA
You mentioned that you were going to start stabilizing sometime. You don't have to spend a fortune on equipment though. The pump is a must but if you are handy you can make one from a refrigeration compressor. I bought one though. The vacuum chamber is where you can save. I got an acrylic vase from bed, bath, and beyond for $9.99. Its 5 inches round by 18 tall. (I see now that Michaels has them even bigger.) It will take 14 5" blanks at a time standing up with 13" headspace for foam. I topped it off with a scrap of 1/2" plexi glass and a gasket from a local sign shop (Free) and 3 fittings from Harbor Freight ($6.00) (ball valve, tee, hose connect). I added a gauge but it isn't necessary. It gets down to 30 inches of mercury which is about as far as it can go. We are at 33 feet above sea level on the high ground east of New Orleans. So under $20 for a chamber that will do what it does is nothing. I even degas resin that I cast PR blanks out of. Its not rocket science (says the NASA engineer).
 

Skie_M

Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
2,737
Location
Lawton, Ok
Hmm ... you could try washing those oak blanks down with water or denatured alcohol before drilling and gluing ... or even right after drilling and before gluing. Worst comes to worst, you could mix up some ebonizing elixir and just go at it ... make it nice and black. :)

Good luck with it ... sounds like a frustrating problem. I haven't dealt with spalted wood just yet, so I have no experience like this to draw from.

I'm already doing the black. I call it home-made bog oak. If you time it right you can get some nice effects with it not going all the way through.

Anyone know why my icons only show up in the title line and not in the main body? It doesn't matter if the cursor is in the main body or not, the big grin goes to the title.

Because you're selecting the "post icon" which is below the main text box, rather than the "smilies" which are located to the right in full edit mode.

Alternatively, there's a small smilie icon next to the attachment management button, and you can use that to select a smilie as well. Post icons ONLY attach to the title of a post.


Also ... I just brush it on and let it sit for a while, rather than soaking the blank in it. :)
 
Last edited:

Skie_M

Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
2,737
Location
Lawton, Ok
Southern Ingenuity .... what's that?

I grew up in Alaska .... I really have no idea whatchertalkinabout. :)
 

TurtleTom

Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
701
Location
Checotah, Oklahoma 74426
I first learned about it on UH-1B Huey Gunships. 2 paperclips and 4 feet of baling wire and you can get anything off the ground. Nowadays it's all duck tape. Why not goose tape?
 

Skie_M

Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
2,737
Location
Lawton, Ok
You sure you're on the right channel? I thought it was VH-1? lol ...


I like my 100 MPH tape. It was used back in WWII to patch bullet holes in aircraft... wouldn't peel off even if you were going 100 miles an hour.

Duck tape (actually supposed to be Duct Tape) is based on that old cloth backed 100 mph tape. It's still very sticky stuff, but nowhere near as sticky and strong as that older formulation. The reason it's called duct tape is because it was re-invented as a product made specifically for sealing gaps and cracks in ductwork for air ventilation.

So ... why is it called duck tape now? Too many kids grew up into adults who can't read or pronounce english properly happen to live in north america... and they all probably like Daffy Duck.
 

TurtleTom

Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
701
Location
Checotah, Oklahoma 74426
I'm afraid you're preaching to the choir. I'm a big fan of 100mph tape, never without 2 rolls. Be warned, they are making some cheap imitation stuff these days, boy was I mad.
Never heard of a VH-1 Anything.
 
Top Bottom