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Old 10-29-2016, 11:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TongueTied View Post
Not sure if this is what the OP meant but it is the same question I have. If you use shellac/sanding sealer, BLO or WOP, and then apply CA, will the CA adhere and will it stay on over the long term? I've heard some say that they apply CA over BLO without issue and some say that when they do that, the CA has a tendency to separate. So, does anyone have $0.02 to throw in? What is your experience?

You all are looking for positive answers and there are none in pen turning and finishing. Many times problems arise in woodworking in general also.

With that said why is it you find a need to use shellac or sanding sealer when doing a CA finish. It will not enhance the color. For that you need an oil base product and blo will accomplish that to a point. Again all woods react differently to finishes. Now if you are using a blo which is an oil on an oily wood guess what???? The very problem you have with woods that is oily you are enhancing it. Get where I am going with this??? Now if you are going to use a blo let it dry and then wipe it with acetone before the CA finish (let acetone dry ). Every layer or product you use needs to dry before you move onto the next coat.

If using CA use the thin version to seal the wood and adhesion is no problem after that. BLO will add a warm glow to wood when applied. I never use it in combination of CA and blo. These are my 2
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Old 10-30-2016, 09:44 AM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Default Both are Lac Bug $hit

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Originally Posted by donstephan View Post
"Both are lac bug . . ." Is that a problem?


I said that because I didn't know if everyone knew Shellac is made from Lac bugs,,,,,,,,, $hit .

Last edited by farmer; 10-30-2016 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 10-30-2016, 10:23 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by bmachin View Post
Shellac is often used as a sanding sealer. However, cellulose sanding sealer is an entirely different animal. It is basically nitrocellulose lacquer that has had stearates added to it to give it a fast build and to make it easy to sand off.

There is a good article on sealers by Michael Dresdner here:

When to Use Sanding Sealer / Rockler How-to

And another by Bob Flexner here:

Shellac as a sealer? It

FWIW

Bill
Thanks Bill. That was good information. I decided (after testing before I took the wood to its final size) that it indeed didn't make any difference in the look of the wood. Since that was the case I didn't use it.
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Old 11-02-2016, 08:53 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by Warren White View Post
I am turning a pen out of cherry and I would like to enhance the color a bit.
Cherry naturally darkens with age - is that the color change you are looking for? Can you do what others have done with Purpleheart and leave it in the sun for a few days? I remember reading one guy's post saying he hangs his turned pen barrels from his rearview mirror for a few days. Most believe it is the UV component in sunshine that darkens the wood. If that is true, one could also try one of the UV lights that those experimenting with Solarez are using.
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:01 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Purpleheart darkens with UV light and oxidiation .... I usually take a small blowtorch to my nearly finished blank right before I do my finish sanding at 500+ grit and then add my usual CA finish over top .... the purple really stands out in bright light, like sunlight, but it looks nearly solid black in dimmer light, like ebony.

Now, don't go setting your blanks on fire! You just play the flame over the spinning blank, perhaps a few inches away, just till it starts to darken .... once it's a medium purple, you should be good to go. Remember that your CA finish will give it a "wet" appearance, which will darken the appearance even further.
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Old 09-05-2018, 01:53 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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I just turned a Purple Heart pen and i used a heat gun instead of a torch. Is there a better benefit to using a torch versus a heat gun?
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Old 09-05-2018, 01:58 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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I have used a heat gun with success and prefer that level of control over a torch. My best, most consistent color comes from just leaving it sit in a sunny windowsill a few a firming it once a day.


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