CA Finish on profile surface

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mikefoye

Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2015
Messages
36
Location
Lago Vista, Texas 78645
I have had good success in application of CA to essentially a straight smooth surface like a pen. Where I run in to problems are profiled surfaces like a light pull or a pepper mill or a bottle stopper where there might be a taper combined with a groove and maybe a bulb end (something other that straight and flat). I start out with thin on a paper towel moving quickly with the lathe on about 700 to try and get even coverage but it gets increasingly difficult in maintaining an even application as the build-up starts. I use accelerant between each coat and sand after every 2 or 3 coats. I then switch to medium and just keep sanding as I go. Takes forever!. My problem is complete and even coverage. This is really tough for me on pieces with dips and notches, etc. and on larger pieces like a pepper mill. I am hoping to get some help on how to apply the CA to these types of pieces.
 

1080Wayne

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2006
Messages
3,344
Location
Brownfield, Alberta, Canada.
Best solution I have found is to not even try . I stay away from beads and coves , keeping larger pieces cylindrical or with gentle curves . I use tung oil sealer as a finish because I prefer minimal shine on larger pieces . I only use a CA finish on a wood/plastic composite piece if the plastic is the major portion of the piece .
 

leehljp

Member Liaison
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
9,326
Location
Tunica, Mississippi,
I have done duck calls with lots of curves and had no problems. I will admit that I had about 200 pens under my belt when I did the duck calls. Another thing I did was to use medium or thick CA; slowest my lathe would turn - around 700 - 800 RPM and rubber/latex gloves to smooth it in the curves with a light touch. I would then wait 15 to 20 minutes for it to harden/cure. A couple of times in cooler temp (mid 50°s) I waited overnight for it to cure.

If there were streaks/ripples where the CA was un-smooth, I didn't worry about it. Just let it cure and do a second go-round and make sure that ripple area was filled. After a good build up of CA, I then sanded it to shape and on occasion took a small radiused scraper to smooth ripples. The key to smoothing ripples is to have enough thickness of CA to allow the smoothing without getting to the wood.

Hope this helps.

Merry Christmas
 
Last edited:

jttheclockman

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
19,132
Location
NJ, USA.
I would skip the CA and use either poly or lacquer. Either dip or spray should work. But that is just me. Now I have not played with it yet and will at some time but quite busy, but Solarez maybe an answer also. One other product that I may try at a later date and you do not hear much of is Powdercoating for wood products. I need to read some into this also.
 
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