CA Filling Process

[keithbyrd]

I have a continuing problem - I eventually get through ok but it takes an awful lot of time! Whenever I am finishing a blank with lots of pits/pores/pock marks/voids or whatever you call them - what is the best way to fill them? For example tonight I have spent about 1 hour putting layers of CA on a coffee pen blank because of the little pieces that chip out of the beans. I probably have 25 coats on this pen. I would like to figure out the technique for quickly filling these voids.
Would anyone be willing to share their technique?

 

[jttheclockman]

A couple suggestions. One would be to use a PR casting resin and rotate the pen slowly and add the resin and build up that way. something similar to a rod maker for fishing poles or even pool cue makers. I have not tried this stuff yet but Solarez UV finish. This may be the next great thing.

I use the PR technique when casting my braided blanks. I coat the braiding with a thin coat before casting. This helps eliminate bubbles in the resin when cast.

 

[Herb G]

Use thicker CA to start with.

 

[leehljp]

1. CA's quickness to harden, and in turn our desire for a finished pen quickly - messes with our minds. Sometimes it just takes stepping back and doing a thing or two that takes extra time. The epoxy, lacquer, and urethane finishers usually allow hours or even a couple of days for finish. So, this suggests - having patience on the "hard to finish" pen that comes along once in a while.

2. When I had small voids and a few deep grains, I would put a thick coat on the pen and not worry about if it was smooth or no, just wait overnight for it to harden. In some cases I would put a drop of thick CA over a void and it would stick out like a wart. No problem. Let it set overnight. No accelerator for me as it sometimes causes problems of moisture or whiteness that would show up later. Instead, I just let it set for 12 to 24 hours to totally harden. Then, turn the "wart" or lopsided finish down smooth.

It is not unusual to run into the occasional blanks that just soak up CA and soak up more. Just cover it in thick CA and let it set for 24 hours. Works on beans too!

 

[mmayo]

I quite agree with Hank's comments. I have had the curse of four recent pens and shave brushes that had deep voids. Thick CA did the trick, but patience helped. I just did other projects while waiting for the gap to fill. I will try 5 minute clear epoxy next time as it seems to have greater viscosity. It worked and all are now smooth and look good.

 

[Terredax]

A couple suggestions. One would be to use a PR casting resin and rotate the pen slowly and add the resin and build up that way. something similar to a rod maker for fishing poles or even pool cue makers. I have not tried this stuff yet but Solarez UV finish. This may be the next great thing.

I use the PR technique when casting my braided blanks. I coat the braiding with a thin coat before casting. This helps eliminate bubbles in the resin when cast.

John, I have to disagree with using casting PR. Casting PR needs volume to create the exotherm reaction to expedite the cure. A thin layer would take forever to cure and would likely run to one side, or even drip off.

If polyester is used, I suggest a laminating PR. It is meant to be used in thinner layers and will cure a bit quicker.

Most professional rod builders use epoxy. There are several brands, and each builder recommends their choice. Epoxy generally has a quicker gel/set time and can be finished similar to PR. It also builds quicker and some can remain slightly flexible if that is beneficial to the application.

 

[keithbyrd]

Thanks for the feedback guys - I guess I was hoping for something other than patience!
Got another one on the lathe so here goes thick CA and patience!

 

[jttheclockman]

A couple suggestions. One would be to use a PR casting resin and rotate the pen slowly and add the resin and build up that way. something similar to a rod maker for fishing poles or even pool cue makers. I have not tried this stuff yet but Solarez UV finish. This may be the next great thing.

I use the PR technique when casting my braided blanks. I coat the braiding with a thin coat before casting. This helps eliminate bubbles in the resin when cast.

John, I have to disagree with using casting PR. Casting PR needs volume to create the exotherm reaction to expedite the cure. A thin layer would take forever to cure and would likely run to one side, or even drip off.

If polyester is used, I suggest a laminating PR. It is meant to be used in thinner layers and will cure a bit quicker.

Most professional rod builders use epoxy. There are several brands, and each builder recommends their choice. Epoxy generally has a quicker gel/set time and can be finished similar to PR. It also builds quicker and some can remain slightly flexible if that is beneficial to the application.

Well John I will have to disagree with you back at you. I use Silmar 41 as my casting resin. Here is a photo of some of my braiding pen blanks and in it you will see various blanks that I not only glued the material to the tube with the resin but also coated the blanks with a light coat to get them ready for casting. I do this so that there are no bubbles latter when I cast. That braiding material is known for throwing off bubbles and if they are not released before casting they will be embedded in the blank even with pressure.

Now I agree there are epoxies that can be used such as what pool cue makers use. But if you have casting resin already then why not use it. It cures just as fast as if cast regularly. Just have to use the proper amount of drop of catalst. I do have been doing this for years and many many blanks. So I do know this method works. It is only a suggestion as I mentioned.

 

[robutacion]

There is one product known as liquid gloss or liquid glass, I think that liquid glass is the most appropriate name as it looks like melted glass when applied.

This is a self-leveler product so, the most efficient way I found to get an even coat on the short time it takes to cure, is to use some sort of very slow rotary tool to attached the blank to. Something like a microwave motor or a drill will very slow speed is capable to keep the liquid glass attached to the blank until it sets and do so with equal thickness all around.

You can use the same method using thick CA...!

Cheers
George