CA on Dense and oily woods

[C_Ludwigsen]

Any collective wisdom for applying a CA/BLO finish to dense or already oily woods? I'm working with some Coolibah burl, and it is giving me fits. Seems like the finish is just not building, is soaking in, is flowing uneven, or something. I start the polishing and see the tell-tale bare spots form.

Urrggg..

Any help is welcome.

Chuck

 

[DCBluesman]

I work with these Aussie burls a lot, Chuck. My best advice is to start with a lacquer. I use a water-borne one and it closes things up for me. You might also try thick CA to get a filled and smoother surface. That thin CA just wicks to the center.

On oily woods, I just clean the turned surface well with rubbing alcohol.

 

[daledut]

I use straight CA on Cocobolo all the time. I don't know how the oiliness compares to coolibah but Ca works for cocobolo.

 

[timdaleiden]

Chuck,

My "guess" is that it has little to do with oil content, and more to do with grain orientation.

A few things to try: Apply CA by hand with mandrel off the lathe. Use a thicker CA. Try chanting or cursing while applying the finish. [] It couldn't hurt.

 

[Gary]

Coolibah burl isn't oily, but it is very dense.

 

[Fred in NC]

For oily woods, I sand to 400, wipe generously with DNA and let dry a bit. Then I put two 1-1/2 cut shellac coats. Keep sanding.

Shellac is an universal sealer, and it forms a barrier between the oil and the finish. The reason for wiping is to get some oil off the surface so the shellac takes better. Finishes will work very well on top of the shellac, poly, CA, lacquer, friction, etc.

Hope this helps!

DNA is denatured alcohol, of course.

 

[C_Ludwigsen]

Thanks guys, I'll try again in the morning with either the lathe off or go with lacquer. I tried a fair bit of the chanting and cursing. Was afraid my wife was going to CA my mouth shut.

 

[RussFairfield]

Chuck,
Using any oil finish on an oily wood is a losing proposition. A solvent finish like shellac or lacquer would be a better choice.

Have you tried a lacquer dipping finish on the pens?? First. wipe the wood with ascetone or lacquer thinner, wipe it dry, and then dip in unthinned gloss Deft. Hang up to drip dry. Overnight in a warm room with give you a clear gloss finish.

This is a good use for an old mandrel. Putting a bushing on the bottom end gives the lacquer something to run off onto and prevents any puddling at the bottom of the wood. If you use the old mandrel or right sized wood dowel, there isn't enough getting into the inside of the tubes to worry about.

 

[jwoodwright]

Some more great ideas. I learn so much here. []

 

[Fred in NC]

If you don't have an old mandrel, try this:

Because of the threads, 1/4" threaded rod is actually about .240" (varies a bit). Put a NYLON cap nut on the end (this has a closed rounded end). Slip your barrels from the other end. Nylon spacers can be used in between and at the top.

You probably know that most finishes don't stick to nylon, and can be peeled of easily.

 

[jwoodwright]

Nice Fred. I use a 1/4" bolt to remove the transmission on slimlines...[]

 

[Fred in NC]

John, I use 1/4" bolts for that too. However, cheap bolts vary in outside diameter. I had to put one on the lathe and sand it a bit for a loose fit.

To push out the tip, I use a piece of 1/8" BRASS rod, also from the borg.

When I first started turning pens, before I bought the Jet Mini, I used 1/4" threaded rod for mandrels. The lathe did not have a spindle taper.

 

[RussFairfield]

CA glue is not a good finishing choice for an oily wood. The CA loses its grip in the presence of the oil, the same reason that it will come off your skin in a couple days.

Removing the oil with lacquer thinner or acetone at the surface is a temporary fix because the oil will eventually migrate back to the surface and weaken the bond of the CA to the wood.

 

[C_Ludwigsen]

This is excellent information. I'm encouraged this morning. I got lacquer thinner, I got Deft, I got at old mandrel. Time I got busy []

Thanks folks, you saved the day again.