jkeithrussell
Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2008
- Messages
- 1,277
Just wanted to add my technique to the collective wisdom of the forum. I've experimented with every variation and formulation that I could think of over the past couple of months. I finally stumbled upon a technique that works for me most of the time. Here's what I do:
Turn and sand to 600 grit. Work with the grain with 000 or 0000 steel wool. Clean the work area and the blank with air compressor. If necessary, I might clean the blank with water or DNA or acetone, or whatever is within reach.
From here, there are a couple of variations. Sometimes, I use the C2C method, sometimes I just leave the blanks on the mandrel. I've found that with this technique, I'm not getting as much CA gummed up on the bushings, so there isn't a problem with the finish lifting up on the edges. That, to me, was the main reason for using C2C. A lot of the time now I'm finding that it is just faster to leave the blanks on the mandrel so that I can do 2 at a time.
I use thin CA only at about 850 RPM. This has been the biggest factor for me in finally being able to get consistent results and not having to spend a month on each blank. I just could not get the thicker CA to work for me. I fold a paper towel (Viva!) around so that I have about a 2" wide strip that is thick (keeps CA from gluing the paper towel to my finger). I work about 4 drops of thin CA per blank and keep it moving until it just starts to cure. Then I hit it with a very small amount of BLO. I keep a separate paper towel on the bench that is just for BLO and I only use a little. I work the thin CA/BLO until I've used up all the space on the paper towel. Usually about 10 coats per sheet. Only takes a couple of minutes.
At this point, I inspect the blank. If it is shiny and relatively smooth, I simply repeat the previous procedure. If it is not shiny and/or smooth, I gently work the blank with 0000 steel wool and thoroughly clean with compressed air. Then repeat the above procedure.
Sometimes I end up doing the procedure 3 or 4 times, but usually 2 is enough. Once the CA looks pretty good, I wet sand with MM. The trick for me with MM is to go quickly and gently. I sand with the grain between grits, but I stop after the first 6 pads. I haven't noticed any benefit to using the last 3 pads.
After the MM, I check the blank/s again. If the finish is smooth and consistent, I go to the next step. If not, I run another paper towel's worth of CA and re-do the MM.
Next, I apply 2-3 coats of HUTS at high speed (wide open), followed by 2-3 coats of caranauba wax. Most of the time, the result is a very glossy, smooth, and durable shine.
If you check out my photo album, you can see how they look. The procedure is not perfect, but it gives me decent results in an acceptable amount of time.
Turn and sand to 600 grit. Work with the grain with 000 or 0000 steel wool. Clean the work area and the blank with air compressor. If necessary, I might clean the blank with water or DNA or acetone, or whatever is within reach.
From here, there are a couple of variations. Sometimes, I use the C2C method, sometimes I just leave the blanks on the mandrel. I've found that with this technique, I'm not getting as much CA gummed up on the bushings, so there isn't a problem with the finish lifting up on the edges. That, to me, was the main reason for using C2C. A lot of the time now I'm finding that it is just faster to leave the blanks on the mandrel so that I can do 2 at a time.
I use thin CA only at about 850 RPM. This has been the biggest factor for me in finally being able to get consistent results and not having to spend a month on each blank. I just could not get the thicker CA to work for me. I fold a paper towel (Viva!) around so that I have about a 2" wide strip that is thick (keeps CA from gluing the paper towel to my finger). I work about 4 drops of thin CA per blank and keep it moving until it just starts to cure. Then I hit it with a very small amount of BLO. I keep a separate paper towel on the bench that is just for BLO and I only use a little. I work the thin CA/BLO until I've used up all the space on the paper towel. Usually about 10 coats per sheet. Only takes a couple of minutes.
At this point, I inspect the blank. If it is shiny and relatively smooth, I simply repeat the previous procedure. If it is not shiny and/or smooth, I gently work the blank with 0000 steel wool and thoroughly clean with compressed air. Then repeat the above procedure.
Sometimes I end up doing the procedure 3 or 4 times, but usually 2 is enough. Once the CA looks pretty good, I wet sand with MM. The trick for me with MM is to go quickly and gently. I sand with the grain between grits, but I stop after the first 6 pads. I haven't noticed any benefit to using the last 3 pads.
After the MM, I check the blank/s again. If the finish is smooth and consistent, I go to the next step. If not, I run another paper towel's worth of CA and re-do the MM.
Next, I apply 2-3 coats of HUTS at high speed (wide open), followed by 2-3 coats of caranauba wax. Most of the time, the result is a very glossy, smooth, and durable shine.
If you check out my photo album, you can see how they look. The procedure is not perfect, but it gives me decent results in an acceptable amount of time.
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