CA-BLO rants/tips/advice

[woodscavenger]

I have just started using the CA-BLO finish. I have had mixed results but mainly good ones. Here are some things I have learned as well as some basic questions.


1. Expensive paper towels may be worse for the finish. I was initially using cheapo towels but then I splurged and bought some "supe absorbent" Viva towels. Althought the BLO was less likely to seep through, the thicker towel seemed to catch on the CA and a couple of times pulled it out of my hands and wrapped itself up. The cloth-like appearance seem to be a hinderance. I went back to the cheapo towels and no more shedding problems.
2. I apply a thin line across my towel then apply it to the underside of the spinning blank and rub back and forth vigorously until a shine reappears. I seemed to have a tough time getting even results when applying the glue to the wood/towel junction. It also keeps me from getting closer to the fumes.
3. Applying friction finish needs to be done carefully or not at all. I have had two sets develop a circumferential "blister" under the CA. I now think it is because I was pressing too hard to generate heat for the friction polish and it somehow blistered. Had to sand down and restart.

 

[Gregory Huey]

I have had the best luck with Bounty brand paper towels and I also apply the glue with the lathe running. I hold the folded paper towel on the bottom of the blank and apply the glue where the towel and the wood meet while moving the towel back and forth accross the blank.

 

[Ken Massingale]

I also have just started using the blo-ca. I agree about the Viva's. I tried the blue shop paper towels from Lowes/Home Depot, and use them exclusively now. Although thinner, they are tuff enough and don't have a mind of their own.
ken

 

[Fleabit]

One thing I found about CA/BLO applications....temperature is a BIG factor with CA! I tried applying it one day when my shop was in the low 30's (too impatient to wait for it to warm up). The BLO worked as advertised, but the CA kept fogging. Lesson learned.

 

[its_virgil]

I have tried the following things to apply the CA: (1) every paper towel available including the shop towels. (2) t-shirts both new and washed (3) packing peanuts (4) unwahsed new terry cloth material (5) the little plastic baggies out parts come in (6) synthetic backing material from the cloth store...don't really know what it is called (7) plastic wrap (8) waxed paper...maybe others I've forgotten about and all of these were suggested by other penturners who have written articles or instructions on applying CA as a finish. So they all work but for some reason the only one that I could get to work consistently for me is Bounty paper towels. They seem to be lint free, and don't cause the CA to cure as quickly as other paper towels I tried. Don't know why, i just know what works for me. Bounty Rocks my World! Something else may rock yours. Have a good weekend.
Do a good turn dialy!
Don

 

[woodscavenger]

Thanks for the opinions.

 

[Randy_]

Originally posted by woodscavenger<br />.....Applying friction finish needs to be done carefully or not at all. I have had two sets develop a circumferential "blister" under the CA. I now think it is because I was pressing too hard to generate heat for the friction polish and it somehow blistered.....

There was a recent post here or at Sawmill or at Yahoo that said CA starts to soften at 180°F. I have no doubt that friction polishing could generate temperatures well in excess of that. I don't see much need(if any) to put a friction polish on top of CA.....especially in light of FP's well known rep for clouding up quickly. I would think a simple buffed wax coating on top of the CA would be just fine.

 

[Guest]

I don't think it's as much the CA softening as moisture trapped under the CA finish.
Heating brings it to the surface.
I also wonder if the "Ghosts" as they were called in a thread a few months back aren't BLO trapped under the CA.
I do agree there is little reason if any to put a friction finish over CA.

 

[woodscavenger]

Your concerns about friction finish are duly noted and I will henceforth cease and desist. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Brent]

I have used cheap paper towels and the little plactic bags. they have both worked real good for me. At final buffing I use minwax finishing wax. I think I am going to try some of Lous TSW. I think that anthony sells it and I think that Lou has a link here some wear

 

[knottyharry]

I tend to agree with Eagle on this. I know in scroll sawing if you use BLO they suggest 2 or 3 days drying time before doing anything else to it.
Harry

 

[Guest]

Woah Harry That's ot what I meant.
Yes I do think that the "ghosts" MAY be CA trapped under the CA but I belive that is my mistake in the the application of the CA BLO method.
I use both CA/BLO or Straight CA.
I am using Mylands more on wood unless I know the pen will be subject to a lot of abuse.
I have had to most trouble with ghosts on oily wood like ebony,wenge,cocobolo.
That is not to say I have not had good results also on these woods.

 

[Fred in NC]

Heat damage, eh ? Makes sense, friction generates heat.

This is what I put on pens:

Sealer if needed.
One kind of finish
One kind of wax

Depending on the material, I don't always put all of them. Acrylics, for example, don't need sealer or finish.

 

[DCBluesman]

You can order it through Pens of Color, www.pocwoodworking.com , or direct from http://www.heritagepens.com/TSW.html .

Originally posted by Brent
<br />I think I am going to try some of Lous TSW. I think that anthony sells it and I think that Lou has a link here some wear