CA-BLO finish questions

[jimr]

I have read a lot about this and gave it a try yesterday. End result was I really messed up a turned blank. Questions- what is the BLO for, I understand it is applied first followed immediately by the CA. What does it add to the process?
I tried applying the thick CA as the blank was turning and immediatley after applying the CA. I used bounty paper towels. I may have used to much CA but it seemed like I had to in order to get the entire blank length covered.
Is the CA supposed to cure as pressure is applied by the paper towel as it it moved back and forth? I wound up with sticky CA and later had to sand it off. If done properly will the CA cure and leave a smooth, glossy finish? I would like to try this again but I don't want a similar result. Advice would be appreciated.

 

[Guest]

What kind of wood was the blank?

 

[penhead]

I am sure you will get replies from many who are much more expert at CA finishes than I, but from my experience, I would suggest you spin the lathe manually (with the blank still on it - if you are implying the lathe is still powered on and spinning.

Many use paper towels, myself, I use a little piece of wax paper.

 

[jimr]

I believe it was leaopard wood, does the wood type figure into the equation? Also, the lathe was on at the lowest speed. I don't think I could turn it manually for this process with only two hands.

 

[Guest]

Some woods are oilier than others and can effect the CA/BLO process.
I'm not sure about Leopard wood.
I went bonkers while trying to use CA/BLO on an ebony Euro-style trying to out do an inferior plastic "Mont Blanc"
I still cringe when I think of it.
I set that aside and proceeded to try the same thing on a Cocoblo pen.
I was about ready to throw everything that had anything to do with penmaking out.
The third for that day was African Blackwood.
3 oily woods in a row and I was starting out with CA/BLO on those.
Did you have blo on the towel?
Once you have applied it to the blank.Turn the lathe off and continue to turn the lathe by hand.(I have been brain storming a foot or knee switch for this purpose).
THe CA?BLO process has a learning curve to it,but when you "get it" you will see why so many use it.
(My guess is CA finishes are what turned so many to acrylics)
You might try CA without the BLO.
USe thin to seal the wood and medium and thick to build it up.
I use the blue insulation foam they use for under plated on houses,I get it at LOWES for about $4.00 for a 6"x30' foot roll.
Others use the bags from kits, wax paper,foam from electronic components or non biodegradable packing peanuts.
Once you have a good bit of CA on the blanks you start the sanding process.
I "skew" off the excess to level it out and then wet sand 320,400, 600 and then MM
I use blo for the wet sand.
From my experience I read anything and everything I could to find the best way to apply it and still have not found a fool proof way that works.
I know others have.My problem is I am to impatient but too stubborn to give up on it.
I don't remember who posted a "Dry" method applying CA to the blanks length wise with the lathe off turning by hand.
He then used steel wool ,again with the lathe off to level it and continued with mm.
I have tried this and it also is a good method.
I consider a good CA finish like "the Holy GRail
or the "Ark of the Covenant"
I am forever in search of it and when they come pit perfect first try I am ecstatic.
All my Corn Cob pens get a CA finish and it seems to go on easier on corn cob and I don't use blo on them.
Good luck.

 

[ryannmphs]

BLO helps to "pop" the grain of the wood. Have you read the article here at IAP? http://www.penturners.org/content/CAFinish1.pdf This may help with some of your questions. Here's how I apply the CA/BLO finish

Sand the blank to 3200MM
Wipe down with towel and denatured alcohol
With the lathe off, apply a coat of BLO, then turn the lathe on and wipe off any excess BLO.
If the wood absorbed the BLO unevenly (cedar will do this), I will apply more coats allowing about 1/2 to 1 hour in between.
I apply all my coats of CA with the lathe on.
2 to 3 coats of thin CA, this will act as a sealer
2 to 3 coats of medium CA.
In between each coat of medium CA I will lightly sand with 600 grit. I am not going for a smooth finish at this point, but rather just helping get an even coat of CA.
After the final CA coat I will sand with 600 then go to MM

I have tried to apply the CA with the lathe off, but that method did not work for me.

Good luck with your finish.

Ryan

 

[woodscavenger]

I must have read all of the directions wrong but here is my process that has been working very well other than the noxious fumes. This has done well on walnut, maple, cocobolo, bocote, birdseye maple, oak and paduk.

1. Sand to whatever finish you want. I have done anywhere from 800 automotive to 12000MM.
2. Fold a paper towel into a long, 1" wide pad.
3. Apply generous BLO with the lathe off wiping into the grain then turn it on and use firm pressure while moving back and forth.
4. Fold over the last 1" of the towel (now it will be double thick) and wipe the oil finish down.
5. Squirt a small line of CA ( I use thick becuase that's all I had) across the recently folded back towel section (this will have a little oil residue in it)
6. With the lathe spinning (mine is around 2500rpm) apply the CA from underneath the one blank and start rubbing back and forth fairly fast with firm pressure. As the glue evens out I keep adding more pressure while still moving back and forth fairly fast. repeat on the other blank.
7. Now you should have a high gloss coat. If you did it right when you stop and look you will not have any runs, ridges, or orange peeling. If you do resand until you are satisfied.
8. fold over the end of the towel and re-apply oil....lately I have been skipping this and only doing repetitive CA coats after the first BLO coat.
9. Repeat the CA layers as many as you want.

Thoughts:
Viva towels suck! They are too absorbant. You want a thinner cheaper towel that is not grabby.
After applying the CA I seem to have a towel with a curved CA covered surface. I reapply the glue by putting a small bead in this trough. I have been experimenting and I think that the layer of hard CA built up on the towel works as a burnishing surface for the remaining CA glue layers. I begin to use it almost like a friction finish while moving back and forth like a buffing action. I have been really happy with the results.
If you apply friction polish on top be careful you don't create too much heat in one section or you will create a blister under the CA finish that you will have to resand.
Let me know what you think.

 

[jimr]

Thanks for all the suggestions and descriptions of your processes. I will try again and hope I can report much better success.

 

[JRowan]

I have seen it mentioned before and from personal experience, I do believe that temperature has a big factor in the CA finish.

I heat my humble shop with an oil filled electric radiator style heater, which I leave on all the time. On really cold (0 - 30 F) days I will help out the oil filled with another electric heater to help warm up the shop to 65 or so.

In the times I have had diasters with the CA it has been cold in the shop. Also if it is to warm (above 75) it doesnt seem to work as well. This is something I am going to keep an eye on in the future. I hadn't really thought about it much on my own but when I saw the post on the temp and its affects it made me think about it more.

 

[its_virgil]

Yes they do, but BOUNTY rocks! Give them a try...plain white...no printed pattern.
do a good turn daily!
Don

Originally posted by woodscavenger
<br />Viva towels suck!

 

[C_Ludwigsen]

On really cold (0 - 30 F) days

Yes, I have had the most trouble with CA finishes when the shop is below 50. I like to keep it between 58 and 65 during the winter.

 

[KKingery]

Is Boiled Linseed Oil the only type of oil that works with the CA, or can other types of oil such as Tung oil be used?

 

[Scott]

A CA/BLO finish is close to my heart! Here's how I do it. After I've sanded and am ready to apply the finish, I apply some BLO with a paper towel while the lathe is turning slowly. Then I put another drop of BLO on the paper, and start to apply it by holding the paper under the spinning pen blank. Then I drip CA glue on the spinning pen blank from above, and distribute it along the length of the pen blank by moving the paper back and forth. I do about four coats this way.

The oil seems to change the consistency of the CA glue, making it easier to deal with. I have found other oils will do the same, but BLO does it the best of the oils I've tried. Tung oil should work nearly as well.

I hope this helps!

Scott.

 

[KKingery]

Thanks Scott - I was just curious, - I thought I remembered seeing that Tung oil was a tad bit less expensive then the BLO.