Buffing Strategy/Process

[keithncsu]

I've done several searches on this and read tons of threads. I think my question/issue/confusion/whatever you want to call it may just be from inexperience. I think the threads I've read have a level of understanding/common knowledge that I'm either missing, or way overthinking. Either way, here goes.

I recently purchased the 4" individual buffing wheels from CSUSA to give buffing a try. Most of the threads I've read seem to talk about buffing acrylics, which makes sense and is straightforward.

I'm struggling to understand the process on wood pen blanks though. I tried a slimline tonight with some cheap wood just in case I messed up. Sanded the blanks to 800 grit and then went straight to Tripoli. Then hit the white diamond. The finish wasn't super shiny, but I expected that.

So is that the normal process or are you guys putting some sort of finish BEFORE buffing?

Also, am I to assume buffing unfinished wood will essentially have the same durability as a friction polish?

Again, if these are rookie questions, I apologize. Thanks for any input!

 

[1080Wayne]

Buffing would usually be done after application of a CA or other finish when a high gloss is desired . Can be done on other wood , especially hard , oily ones . Depends on the type of appearance you want to achieve . Yes , probably about the same durability as friction polish , but not all woods will be the same .

 

[terry q]

Put on 2 or 3 liberal coats of thin CA let it dry and lightly sand back with 800. Go straight to Tripoli then wax. Your results will be better.

 

[keithncsu]

Put on 2 or 3 liberal coats of thin CA let it dry and lightly sand back with 800. Go straight to Tripoli then wax. Your results will be better.

This would allow me to skip all the micromesh correct?

 

[jttheclockman]

I do not buff wood pens unless I put the CA top coat on. But I have used many exotic woods for other projects such as bases for clocks. I dip in Danish oil and let dry and then I buff with tripoli and then wax. They hold up well because they do not get handled like a pen does and have that soft shine to them.

Buffing will work well with woods that are oily but will not take a shine if not. such as oak or walnut. The other factor is how open grained are the woods??? The more open grained like oak the better chance of getting the tripoli in there and not being able to get out. Thus woods like that will look better if sealed with CA. Just my opinion.

 

[TonyL]

I do not use MM on anything but M3 or TruStone. Like some, I don't buff unsealed wood - only wood that has CA or the like on it. Maybe one can buff "raw" wood; I just haven't tried.

 

[Scratch]

My 2 cents. I have a few customers who want to feel the wood when they write.
I sand to 600 grit, then use maybe the 1st couple grits of MM,
Sanding sealer, then buff with Tripoli, White Diamond then wax.
I'll admit the shine isn't durable. But they are happy with it.

 

[mecompco]

After I'm happy with my finish, I use the Tripoli and White Diamond wheels on acrylics and CA. With a Tru-Oil or friction polish on wood, I buff with the Carnauba wheel to give it a little shine and to help protect the finish. I only thing I've buffed w/o a finish is antler that didn't require CA and that was on the wax wheel.