Buffing as a finish

[Dvoigt]

I know that the CA finish is what most people prefer to use and that friction finishes like wax are avoided because they wear of quickly. But what about buffing like with the Beale system? Part of that 3 step finish is wax... so is this not a good finish for pens? If not, then what is it good for. Maybe I don't fully know the in's and out's of buffing.... clear it up for me.

Thanks
D

 

[Bear-31]

Buffing is used to enhance and protect a finish. Whether you are using WOP, Lacquer, BLO, or CA, Buffing will remove small imperfections and produce an even deeper shine. The last step being wax that produces an almost soft feel to your project that is more pleasing to the touch. Yes the wax will wear off, but you still have your finish underneath to protect the wood. You can always reapply the wax to bring back the original luster.

Hope that helps a little.

Bear

 

[mrcook4570]

Buffing is used to polish a finished surface. Almost all of my pens wear a CA finish and I buff that with tripoli and white diamond. I do not use the wax wheel.

On my decorative bowls and platters, I buff the finish with tripoli and then carnauba wax.

 

[george]

I also finish CA with tripoli and white diamond. Only buffing would for sure make FAST finish, but it would not last long. The pen would quickly be dirty.

 

[leehljp]

I think maybe some confusion on the subject is coming because of usage, cleaning and habit differences.

First, many wood objects (furniture) have "buffed" and "waxed only" finishes and lots of hand rubbing - along with hand usage that results in a beautiful patina. Why not have this on pens? Yes, the Beall buffing can do this.

Well, furniture is furniture and people with FINE furniture clean it and wax it regularly, in some cases daily. If pens were cleaned and waxed daily, no problem; it would probably work very well. I think a few people do consider their pens as fine writing instruments to be cared for on a daily basis in such manner.

However, most people do not see pens in such a manner, and they probably expect their pens and even "fine writing instruments" to be self protected. It sure sounds nice to say "Natural Finish" but the care that is needed to keep it looking that way is the same as with "fine furniture".

Also bear in mind that hand dirt and oils, along with the humidity from acidic persperation results in situations that make it a "daily" cleaning necessity.

For people that ARE aware of this, the natural finish is fine. For those that are NOT aware, will purchase and then come back on the seller for their pen having a poor finish - much like a child wanting a puppy but not the responsibility. For the person who is NOT aware of the ongoing daily maintenance, it is highly likely that they will come back on the seller.

In the end, it comes down to the hassle of dealing with customers on the issue as well as the reputation that they will give you for their "cluelessness" on maintenance.

 

[Dvoigt]

Well I'lll probably look into a buffing system to help smooth things up, and I plan on doing some other things in the near future that would benefit from this. So what would you get? This set up from PSI that goes on the lathe http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LBUFFSYS.html. Or maybe a stand alone system from HF like this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94393

I'm leaning towards the PSI route to save space even though I'll need to give up some turning time.

 

[Tn-Steve]

For me, buffing helps a couple of way. It provides a very high shine to the finish, it helps remove any tiny irregularities in the finish, and since I buff the length of the pen, and tiny marks that remain run lengthwise and are much less noticeable.

I did my buffer on the low-down. I got a MT2 chuck at HF for 15 bucks or so, 2 6 inch buffing wheels at Lowes, 2 adapters to mount them in a chuck, and 2 bushings to go from the 5/8th inch hole in the wheel to the 1/2 inch arbor in the adapter. Total expense, under 30 bucks, and I had already gotten the chuck to drill on the lathe, so that wasn't really an expense at all.

Takes me 15 seconds to set up the buffer, pop the mandrel out, pop in the chuck, mount up the wheel I need. I've got a multi-speed buffer that takes up no extra room in the shop, didn't cost much at all, and greatly improved the quality of my finishes.

Hope that helps,

Steve

 

[jackrichington]

Buffing a danish oil finish with a beall or other system is for bowls (art type) or other items not handled much..pens require a VERY TOUGH finish poly..ca.. etc...

 

[WoodWizard]

Buffing a danish oil finish with a beall or other system is for bowls (art type) or other items not handled much..pens require a VERY TOUGH finish poly..ca.. etc...

you buff a danish oil?..am I reading this post right?

 

[DCBluesman]

You need look no further than chemistry to determine that anything which is subject to significant handling NEEDS a finish.

On average, the pH of perspiration is acidic and can range from about pH 5.6 to 7.0. It contains approximately 99% water with the other 1% consisting of salt and organic residues (uric acid, urea, ammonia, and lactic acid). Our skin releases oils or sebum that contains lipids, triglycerides, and free fatty acids.

That is what you leave behind on your pen each time you touch it!

 

[RussFairfield]

Pure Carnauba is one of the hardest waxes we can use, but it is still a wax, and less durable than anything else we can put on the wood.

If you really want a wax finish on the pen, then use the buffing wheels because that is about the only way to put on a pure Carnauba wax. Every other wax that contains carnauba also has softer waxes (paraffin or beaswax) added to make it softer and more workable so it can be applied and polished by hand.