Blo /ca revisited

[Dan Masshardt]

Finishing pens with ca and boiled linseed oil seems like a older finishing method that doesn't seem as popular as using ca without blo and other methods.

I like to have various finishing methods available and want to learn to maximize this method along with others.

So a few questions for those of you who still use this finishing method regularly....

1. What is your application process? Oil then ca, ca then oil? Both at once? Also what thickness if ca do you use?

2. How many applications typically?

3. What do you do to the pen after the application? Micromesh? Just buff? Plastic polish?

Thanks for the feedback. Perhaps this thread could introduce newer turners to this method as well.

 

[chrisk]

I learned the BLO CA finishing process by viewing this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc

I think you get an answer for all of your questions above.

Some personal preferences: I apply as many coats as needed to seal the blank. But generally 3 to 5 coats are sufficient IMO. I lightly sand between coats with the green 1800 grit pad. After the last coat has been applied, I let the blank aside for at least 24 hours. I then sand with MM (generally from the green 1800 grit to the Tan 3200 grit). I prefer a satin finish and found out one can obtain this kind of finish with the above method.

 

[GaryMGg]

I use BLO/CA on certain woods. Figured Sapelle is a good example--the BLO really pops the grain.
First, I get the surface as smooth as possible--typically using a skew, perhaps touching up with 220 or higher sandpaper if necessary.
First, the BLO. I burnish the blank 'til the BLO seems dry, then let it cure overnight.
Then, CA just like normal.

I've done it without waiting overnight and it often works fine but sometimes not.
It can be hit or miss.
If burnished properly, it's usually fine.
One note: BLO requires some surface finish--be it CA, poly, or a wiping varnish.
Left uncoated, over time it'll just get muddy.

 

[Karl_99]

I regularly use a CA/BLO finish on most woods. I start with 2 coats of thin CA and about 5 coats of medium CA. I apply BLO after each coat of CA. I let this dry/ set for at least 45 min. I use a series of 6 wet pads for acrylic followed by plastic polish and then buffing. This process works for me.

I learned the technique from a Russ Fairfield video in the Library.

I don't like a CA finish using a accelerator spray.

 

[robertkulp]

I follow the video that chrisk posted, but use thin CA and BLO. This soaks in really well and give a good seal to the finish without building up. It produces a very nice satin finish that still feels like wood. The Beall Buffing System will bring out a gloss and if I want a thicker/glossier finish, I'll add a couple of coats of medium CA & then buff.

Just remember, a little CA goes a long way.

Works for me, YMMV.

 

[Krudwig]

I use the BLO and thin ca to start and finish with the medium ca and blo followed by a polish of Novis. I put a drop of blo and then three drops of ca thin while doing thin at a slow turn maybe 400 - 600 and put maybe 10 applications and followed by turning up the speed on the lathe to 2600 and do the same thing with medium ca and blo but may only use one drop of ca. I move my paper towel back and forth and keep it there till it dries before doing the next coat. You can tell when your pen goes from ok, to now that's a finish and then the plastic polish just makes it pop. I can get a finish this way that requires no additional sanding which I like.

 

[Wildman]

Have used methods to apply BLO/CA same you see in William Young's and Russ Fairfield's video they both work. Wish sound better on Fairfield's video.
I have also used mineral oil/CA finish prior to learning about BLO/CA and that worked well too!

Got where felt using any oil unnecessary step with a CA finish. Lot of that had to wood was finishing with CA. Still say try with or without BLO and decide for yourself.

Never had a bad finish with CA any applied it. Then became sensitive to CA and stopped using it as a finishing or gluing. I do buy cheap CA for filling cracks in my other woodturnings.
Practice - by Wildwood @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

 

[PJVitkus]

Thanks for the embedded warning about sensitivity to CA. I have been inconsistent in the use of my charcoal-filter mask, but after reading about the sensitivity to it will use it faithfully, Lord willing. I do not want to lose access to my most favorite finish.

 

[PJVitkus]

BLO I had used but no longer. For the wood I mostly use, it's really not needed. Also found that I had highly erratic results-sometimes splotches, and for no discernible reason. Have concluded it doesn't adequately bond with CA.

 

[butchf18a]

Thin, 6 coats, accelerator lightly between coats, no waiting, light 320 grit if needed to eliminate ridges (which is rare), Micro Mesh wet, buff, assemble. Whole process takes less than 10 minutes. It ain't rocket science folks.

Jmoicbw-bidi

 

[Chasper]

I use folded paper towels as applicators, select-a-size folded to 16 layers thick. Thin CA only, no accelerator. Apply at 4000 RPM lathe speed.

First coat: Thin CA only, no BLO
2nd-6th coat: One small drop of BLO on paper towel, one pass over and back with BLO then apply thin CA across blank while maintaining contact between paper towel and blank. Move the paper towel repeatedly across the blank with speed and pressure for 6-8 seconds.
If application lines are visible or if the shine isn't brilliant at that point I sand lightly with 600 grit and apply 2-3 more coats of thin CA, same method.

While the turning is still hot from the last coat of CA (the paper towel and pressure heat it up and cure the CA, no accelerator needed) I take the turning to the buffing wheels and buff with the finest grit. No additional polish is needed. Ready to assemble immediately.

Total time: less than 5 minutes from start finishing to ready for assembly.

 

[Pjohnson]

I may be different tham others.

My recipe is Shellac/BLO and then 6-8 coats of CA.
Capt Eddie called it OB Shine juice ... I have been using this mix for a number of years. First on cabinets, picture frames, etc ... then tried it on pens.

 

[Pjohnson]

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