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Finishing It ain't a pen till it's FINISHED!


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Old 07-10-2011, 10:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default The Best Pen Finish I've used yet

I've tried every type of pen finish out there and still never found one that I was completely sold on, at least not until now. I was reading some old forum's on finishing when I stumbled across a link to Doctor's Woodshop. I went to the website and as I read Mike's story I discovered he had a lot of the same issues I have had with today's more popular pen finishing products. As I read further I learned that Mike is a Biochemical Toxicologist and used his expertise to formulate a line of finishing products he calls Doctor's Woodshop!

I ordered one of each of Mike's products hoping they would be the answer to at lease some of my concerns. I'm writing this tonight to share with you a product that in my opinion is far superior to the other finishes on the market. Mike's products did everything he said they would on his website.

If you are interested in trying a Pen Finish that really is a quality product I highly recommend that you order some of Mike's Doctor's Woodshop finishes. I promise you, you will not be disappointed.

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Old 07-10-2011, 10:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Is it better than a CA finish?
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Old 07-10-2011, 10:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by achennau View Post
Is it better than a CA finish?
The only way for you to know if it is a better finish for you is to try it.
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Old 07-10-2011, 10:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Which of the finishes do you suggest for pens??
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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I start out with a drop or two of the Walnut Finishing Oil on my sanding paper per Mike's suggestion. I sand all of my pens to to 12,000 grit using Micro-Mesh. I then apply three individual coats of Doctor's Woodshop Walnut Oil/Carnauba Wax & Shellac Woodturning finish. After the third coat I put a little bit of the Walnut Oil Paste Wax on my finger and the heat retained in the wood melts the wax as you spread it. I take a clean Scott towel and give it one last polish. The result is a hard, durable finish.

Is it better than CA? In my opinion it is because it doesn't give the wood that plastic look. I want my pens to be as natural looking as possible so I no longer use CA, but that's just me.

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Old 07-10-2011, 11:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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I tried it and was disappointed. After handling the pen the finish lost it's shine. But I did not go through the steps you did. Maybe I will try it again.
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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very interesting. I'm always looking for different finishes. I wonder how it stands up on a daily use pen. I also would like to know the shelf life of it.
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Old 07-11-2011, 01:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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I sent an email to Mike who is the person that developed the Doctor Woodshop product line and he has registered for the forum and is waiting to be approved. He will then get online and answer any questions you guy have.
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Default Doctor's Woodshop finishes

Full disclosure: I make the finishes at Doctor's Woodshop (doctorswoodshop.com). Pen turners have been very good customers and I appreciate the exposure I have gotten here. The question" Is it better than CA?" has to be answered from the turner's prospective. From my prospective, the company was founded on three principles:1) wood should look like wood and 2) don't kill the customers. The third is 3) make it cheaper and better but 1 and 2 are more germane to this discussion.

If you want a finish that is shiney and hard like epoxy, my products aren't for you. From my prospective, wood should look like wood, not plastic. A WOP or CA finish looks like plastic. It's also hard and durable though not really much more water resisitant than an oil/wax/shellac finish. The walnut oil/wax/shellac finish I make puts a polymerizing oil into the wood, a smooth shellac surface over it and, because it is a friction polish, a melted carnauba wax top coat floated over the surface. Multiple coats can be applied. An additional carnauba wax coat can be applied if desired.

Let me reinforce the friction polish part. You need to feel the heat as you apply it. If you are looking for more depth of finish, several coats of the High Build Friction Polish will apply a deeper shine as well as put the hardening oil into the wood. Top that with carnauba paste wax and you get good finish that will stand up to handling and be restored with buffing when needed.

As to number 2, my finishes are made with salad dressing and the coating of M&M's with a little bird food (lac bug) and ethanol (also an natural product). Don't drink it, but nothing I make will turn your liver to a raisin.

If you have questions, don't hesitate to ask (mike@doctorswoodshop.com). I do this for fun and so far it's been a lot of fun.
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Re: shelf life. Shellac by itself has a limited shelf life. In the Doctor's Woodshop products the presence of the oil excludes the air and prevents oxidation of the shellac. I have two year old samples of finishes that works perfectly. Bloxygen (www.bloxygen.com ) will do the same thing in shellac products with out oil.
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