Best finish for a shaving set?

[eranox]

I realize that similar questions have popped up a lot, so please bear with me.

I'm curious to know what your experiences (good and bad) have been with various finishes on shaving hardware. I love a CA finish on my pens, but I'm concerned about the durability of a film finish, or what would happen if water somehow crept under part of the finish.

For acrylic handles, I currently use no finish--just sand and buff to a high gloss. This can make them rather slippery, but they have given me no problems. If somebody has a recommendation for an acrylic finishing product, I'm all ears.

For wood and antler, I have been alternating between CA and a friction polish covered in a couple of coats of solid carnauba wax. I haven't used either for long enough to get a good feel for their durability or water resistance.

I also have a stabilizing setup, but I prefer not to stabilize every project I make. If there's no perfect answer for a finish, I guess it is an option.

Please share your experiences, both good and bad. Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[turn81]

I realize that similar questions have popped up a lot, so please bear with me.

I'm curious to know what your experiences (good and bad) have been with various finishes on shaving hardware. I love a CA finish on my pens, but I'm concerned about the durability of a film finish, or what would happen if water somehow crept under part of the finish.

For acrylic handles, I currently use no finish--just sand and buff to a high gloss. This can make them rather slippery, but they have given me no problems. If somebody has a recommendation for an acrylic finishing product, I'm all ears.

For wood and antler, I have been alternating between CA and a friction polish covered in a couple of coats of solid carnauba wax. I haven't used either for long enough to get a good feel for their durability or water resistance.

I also have a stabilizing setup, but I prefer not to stabilize every project I make. If there's no perfect answer for a finish, I guess it is an option.

Please share your experiences, both good and bad. Thanks in advance for any advice.

I have a buddy that turns razors almost exclusively and he swears by the carnauba wax. I grabbed one from him and it has treated me well since I got it over a year ago.


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[Dale Lynch]

Ckear rubber toughened CA is your best bet.It will not last forever but will hold up better than a hard finish.Being shaving brushes getting banged around inside your mug a hard finish will chip or crack over time.Once that happens the water will seep in and destroy the finish.Rubber toughened CA will hold up better because of its impact resistance.

This can be mitigated if you use a wide bowl or face lathering instead.You will also need to heavily coat the inside of the brush knot opening to protect it from water while soaking the brush in preparation for use.I tell people who use my wood brushes to only soak the badger useing a slim cup with hot water only covering the hair and not to float it in the sink.

I also inform them that water will eventually get to it,but with diligent care it will last many years.

 

[farmer]

Finish

I would think if you were wanting a clear glass like finish that will protect the wood as in water proof a marine epoxy like west systems 105/207 would work good .

Solarez would work too .

 

[TattooedTurner]

I've had great results with CA on my brushes, razor handles, and lather bowls. I build up quite a thick layer with medium CA. I recommend staying away from nice rounded beads though, the CA tends to pool up on the side, and it's almost impossible to get it sanded down to the level of the rest of the finish without sanding through or even ruining the shape of the bead. I've never used epoxy, but tried wax and friction polishes, both had a short lifespan so I redid the finishes with CA. It's not just the water, many of us wetshavers use soaps and that kills the finish. I'm not sure about creams being as hard on a finish.

 

[robertkulp]

Thin CA will easily soak into and bond with wood, as long as you don't sand it beyond 400 grit. Going beyond that can begin to polish the surface and not allow any finish to penetrate. Wax and friction polish can wear very quickly when subjected to water and soap on a daily basis. Your best finish is a quality Flex CA (without rubber) that can withstand a wet environment.

Before assembly, be sure to seal the endgrain of the wood, too.

 

[oldtoolsniper]

Mudhole is a fishing rod making company, its like PSI only for fishing rods. It's not the only company out there but it will give you some ideas outside the pen world.

They use a lot of flexible finish and use rotators to keep the finish level. Might be something you can adapt from that.

Wood expands and contracts with moisture. I do not believe the perfect non failing finish has been devised for it yet. Bamboo rod finishing may get you close too.

Asking a finish to survive water, whatever chemicals are in the soap, cream, or balm, heat, banging around, as well as expansion and contraction while looking perfect for years of daily use is a lot to ask for.


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[eranox]

Clear rubber toughened CA is your best bet...

I'll give this a try first. Do I need to work it any differently from normal CA? Will it take a gloss finish, or do I need to stick with matte?