leehljp
Member Liaison
Background:
The 30 pieces of sliver pen (click here) present some challenges in finishes in that they can't be sanded. Repeating that - they cannot be sanded. If the finish is applied and then sanded through, SMEARING on the silver dots occur. Therefore, layers of CA need to be built up enough that no sand through WILL occur.
For me, this means that I have to build up several thick coats before I start to sand. Most of the time, CA will crinkle when applied in thick coats, or turn white. Of course, applying more CA over this aggravates the problem.
It takes me about 1 to 2 hours (or more) to apply CA finish to a "30's" pen and smooth it out. I am trying to finish 6 before my trip back to the States.
SO that brings me to this experiment: I decided to "dip" a couple of the "30" pens in CA and hang them to set and dry. They seem to be doing fine so far.
I also decided to dip one in a very syrupy Acrylic (acrylic/acetone).
BIG MISTAKE! The acetone in the acrylic desolved the bloodwood as soon as I put the blank into the jar. It was not in the jar but 1 to 2 seconds. The holly looked like it had blood stain all over it. (Appropriate for the situation.) So did the BOW but it wasn't as noticeable there.
About two years ago I tried a similar mix (but thinner) to try and stabilize the bloodwood as an experiment. I noticed then that acetone will dissolve the pigment in bloodwood and leach the colors. But I didn't think that dipping it in thick liquid acrylic for 2 seconds would do that.
Learned a lesson here. I was looking forward to trying the acrylic approach but since I use bloodwood often and holly often, I will have to stick with the CA for those. Lacquer does not build up enough thickness in layers, so I am stuck with the CA for now.
The 30 pieces of sliver pen (click here) present some challenges in finishes in that they can't be sanded. Repeating that - they cannot be sanded. If the finish is applied and then sanded through, SMEARING on the silver dots occur. Therefore, layers of CA need to be built up enough that no sand through WILL occur.
For me, this means that I have to build up several thick coats before I start to sand. Most of the time, CA will crinkle when applied in thick coats, or turn white. Of course, applying more CA over this aggravates the problem.
It takes me about 1 to 2 hours (or more) to apply CA finish to a "30's" pen and smooth it out. I am trying to finish 6 before my trip back to the States.
SO that brings me to this experiment: I decided to "dip" a couple of the "30" pens in CA and hang them to set and dry. They seem to be doing fine so far.
I also decided to dip one in a very syrupy Acrylic (acrylic/acetone).
BIG MISTAKE! The acetone in the acrylic desolved the bloodwood as soon as I put the blank into the jar. It was not in the jar but 1 to 2 seconds. The holly looked like it had blood stain all over it. (Appropriate for the situation.) So did the BOW but it wasn't as noticeable there.
About two years ago I tried a similar mix (but thinner) to try and stabilize the bloodwood as an experiment. I noticed then that acetone will dissolve the pigment in bloodwood and leach the colors. But I didn't think that dipping it in thick liquid acrylic for 2 seconds would do that.
Learned a lesson here. I was looking forward to trying the acrylic approach but since I use bloodwood often and holly often, I will have to stick with the CA for those. Lacquer does not build up enough thickness in layers, so I am stuck with the CA for now.