2 questions buffing

[Tiger]

For the guys that buff:
1. How do you know it's time to move from the tripoli wheel to the White diamond wheel, is it a particular scratch pattern or when you can't see scratches or is it something else?

2. The 3rd wheel doesn't seem to do much for me, what is it suppose to do? Remove very fine scratches, put wax on?

 

[Dan Masshardt]

I only use the third wheel for wood with no heavy finish on it. Not for pens. It's just wax.

 

[Tiger]

Thanks Dan.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

You shouldn't have too many scratches even going in to buffing.

When you hit the first wheel you should notice a difference. When the whole item looks the same with the shinier finish, it's time to move on.

All the visible scratches should really be out by the time you're done with the first wheel i'd think.

 

[Tiger]

I probably should elaborate a little on my experience here. I've turned 3 items lately, Blackwood, Olivewood and Bocote. The Blackwood had a lot of scratches on it resulting from some stray sanding particles of what was supposed to be 600 grit. Anyway it took quite a few minutes with the Tripoli but it managed to remove the scratches and by the end of the buffing process it looked good. The Olive wood I buffed with the same preparation ie 400 and then 600 and in seconds first Tripoli and then White Diamond and the finish was great. Bocote after several minutes of Tripoli, I could still see scratches, diagonal so that must have come from the Buffing with Tripoli because I didn't notice them after the 600 grit. Obviously pressure against the wheels is a factor but then so is the nature of the timber.
Dan it sounds as though if you are buffing properly it's just a matter of seconds, otherwise something is amiss, it could be poor preparation or expecting the Buffing to do too much.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Make sure your buffing wheels are clean.

I think you are expecting to much from buffing. It can take out some scratches but it's supposed to make it shine.

I'm wondering if you're using low quality sandpaper?

 

[Tiger]

Dressed the wheels with 80 grit sandpaper before I started, think the sandpaper is ok, the scratch patterns were diagonal so suspect that they were put on by the Buffer. Dan you make some good points, I have tried cloth backed sandpaper as well as good quality Wet and Dry, maybe I am expecting too much from buffing and need a bit more time on the 400 and 600.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Dressed the wheels with 80 grit sandpaper before I started, think the sandpaper is ok, the scratch patterns were diagonal so suspect that they were put on by the Buffer. Dan you make some good points, I have tried cloth backed sandpaper as well as good quality Wet and Dry, maybe I am expecting too much from buffing and need a bit more time on the 400 and 600.

What are you doing to the wheels after the 80 grit?

 

[Tiger]

The 80 grit rests on a wood block, it seems to clean the wheels ok. Then I apply a small amount of compound and then apply the workpiece to the buffs.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

The 80 grit rests on a wood block, it seems to clean the wheels ok. Then I apply a small amount of compound and then apply the workpiece to the buffs.

I sure would blow them off good and then use a waste price of wood on the wheels before using them to buff something good after the. 80 grit.

Only use the paper if they are in rough shape. That's definitely not something you should be doing every time.

 

[Tiger]

Sandpaper only used every few weeks or when the wheels look ragged. When you say blow off, do you mean with an air compressor or just letting the lathe run for a minute to clear stray fibres?

 

[MarkD]

I would suggest spending a few dollars for a buffing wheel rake rather adding potential sandpaper grit to the buffing wheel.

Metal Teeth for Wheel Rake - Wheel Rake - Buffing/Polishing - Caswell Inc

 

[Tiger]

Looks good Mark, will put on the shopping list thanks, but in a pinch the sandpaper seems to work well and does leave the buffs fluffy and white like new again.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Sandpaper only used every few weeks or when the wheels look ragged. When you say blow off, do you mean with an air compressor or just letting the lathe run for a minute to clear stray fibres?

Compressed air and a block of wood after

How do you know there aren't 80 grit particles in those fluffy wheels?

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Compressed air and a block of wood after

How do you know there aren't 80 grit particles in those fluffy wheels?

Sure would explain that scratches wouldn't it?

 

[Tiger]

Ok thanks Dan, you make sense but I would have thought that spinning the lathe at 2000 rpm would have cleared any stray particles, will put the compressor on it and follow up with block of wood. Still think that technique is a large part of using these successfully, even a change of speed can affect the final result, but I used the same speed on the 3 timbers mentioned and got different results. Anyway this is good, i now know if I don't get anywhere after a few seconds with the Tripoli and by that I mean removal of scratches I'll need to go back to sandpaper on the lathe. Is there much to be gained by presenting the blank in a range of directions ie diagonal, longitudinal and radially to the buffing wheel?

 

[randyrls]

Ok thanks Dan, you make sense but I would have thought that spinning the lathe at 2000 rpm

TC; If you have 8" buffing wheels that is far too fast!!! Beal says 1200 RPM for their three-on-a-buff 8" buffing wheels.

The Buffing Wheel Rake is a good idea and will not contaminate the wheels with grit. I have seen people use discarded pieces of bandsaw blades.

 

[Tiger]

I run the buffs at approx 1400, the 2000 was just to clear fibres.