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Old 01-12-2019, 11:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Snugging Up Barrel ID

Last week I had a problem with Epoxy inside some barrels, well I use round files and cleaned them up to where the trimmer bushings were a snug fit.

I finish one pen yesterday and it was OK, but today I finished a 2nd Tycoon and it felt snug when pressing the inserts in BUT. after unscrewing and screwing the cap on both ends one of the inserts popped out and I lost the spring

So my question is can I paint a thin layer of epoxy inside the end of the barrel and let it dry and then press it back together or just epoxy the insert in?

Thanks.
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Steve; You can use epoxy to glue the insert. This is important: Put the glue on the inside of the tube, NOT on the fitting. If you are pressing the fitting, spread the glue around the inside of the tube.

On some delicate materials I expand the tube end so it is a slip fit on the fittings.
I use a dab of thick CA (aka superglue) on the inside of the tube and give the fitting a twist as I insert it.
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:30 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I like to use a drop of red locktite to glue loose a fitting piece in, it's not as messy as epoxy and does not out gas like CA.
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Old 01-13-2019, 08:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monty View Post
I like to use a drop of red locktite to glue loose a fitting piece in, it's not as messy as epoxy and does not out gas like CA.

Plus - a heat gun can be used to break the Loctite bond.
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Old 01-13-2019, 12:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Thanks guys, all good ideas, I will give them a try
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Old 01-13-2019, 12:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Plus - a heat gun can be used to break the Loctite bond.
Red Loctite requires heat in excess of what a pen blank would withstand to break the bond. It's something around 550 degrees.
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Old 01-13-2019, 05:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terredax View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by larryc View Post
Plus - a heat gun can be used to break the Loctite bond.
Red Loctite requires heat in excess of what a pen blank would withstand to break the bond. It's something around 550 degrees.
I don't know what the specs are but I have not found that to be the case where I have used it.
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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I looked it up and this is what I found

NOT RECOMMENDED FOR:
Use on plastic parts, particularly thermoplastic materials where stress cracking of the plastic
could result.

Use in pure oxygen and/or oxygen rich systems and should not be selected as a sealant for
chlorine or other strong oxidizing materials

and they say it is removable once cured by heating up parts to 500F (260C).
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