Simplified CA technique.

[daledut]

I have read many CA techniques and they all seem to result in a rough build-up of CA that has to be re-sanded. I don't like sanding once and I hate to sand it til it is smooooth just to have to do it over again. So I developed my own technique that is quicker and smoother and looks like glass.

The key is putting it on smooth the first time. In my experience, that cannot be done with the lathe running. Any vibration will cause swirls to harden in the CA and then we are back to sanding.

I sand to 12000MM and then, with the tathe off, I use a paper towel with 2 drops of CA (medium) on it and rub it on back and forth while turning the lathe by hand. Keep the coat thin, just enough to make it look wet. Then turn the lathe on and spritz it with accellorator. I just mist a cloud over the spinning blank.

Check to see that the CA is dry (I lightly touch it with my hand while it is spinning.

Stop the lathe and rub it length wise with 0000 steel wool. Don't go to the next coat until this coat feels smooth.

Repeat the steps 3 more times. Omitt the steel wool on the last coat unless you have bad rough spots. Use a plastic polish. I use HUT Ultra gloss. Put a dab on a cotton cloth and polish the blank while it is running at about half speed. Wipe off the excess, then crank your lathe to full speed and buff with a clean cotton cloth.

The result is a hard, smooth, glossy finish that literally takes only about 2 minutes. I handle mine right away for assembly. I do like to leave the pen out overnight until all of the CA fumes disipate before putting in a box or display case.

I promise you that the CA finish takes way less time than it took me to type this out. Try it you will like it.

Dale

 

[timdaleiden]

Thanks for sharing your technique Dale. I haven't completely given up on a CA finish yet. I have tried so many methods with CA, that I should have some sort of certificate superglued to my lathe. My problem has always been getting a smooth, even application. Sanding was becoming a part time job.

I am a perfectionist, and look very closely at the final outcome. Any imperfection erks me to no end. I will take any pen I have made apart, and redo it, if I feel it can be better.

I sometimes miss my friction polish, because the smell was so sweet, and the quick gloss was so cool. Watching it fade was a sad thing though.

 

[Daniel]

Tim,
You can still put the friction polish over the CA, the CA acts as a sealer so the polish shouldn't fade. I am with you I love the smell adn so do the customers.

 

[leenollie]

Good morning all,

I like to use the BLO/CA combination finish with my lathe running at its slowest speed. I use the slow dry, thick CA. I find that it affords me the time to lay it on and then apply the BLO. I do not get the waviness that others have written about, and the thickness of the glue does not allow it to sling off very much (hardly ever.) The reaction of the BLO to the CA is very fast. One side benefit is that the finished barrels do not adhere to the bushings - a slight tug and they pop right off. The buildup of BLO/CA on the bushings are easily cleaned off - it flakes off with a little friction from your thumbnail. After 3-4 coats of BLO/CA, I use two more coats of HUT Crystal Coat and a light buffing with a soft cloth to finish off my pens.

Lee Biggers
The ever curious pen turner []

 

[dw]

Lee,

I've never given the BLO technique a serious trial. I heard somewhere that BLO will turn yellow with age and since at that time I was turning some "blonder" wood, I worried about it. In your experience, does the combination of the BLO and CA tend to yellow up with time?

 

[leenollie]

Hey DW,

I've only started using this method recently, but I use it on the last 5 pens I made (I've got a lot of Maple to use up.) I think that the reaction of the oil and the CA glue changes the chemical composition of both the ingredients, but I don't know if it yellows or not. Perhaps Scott or one of the more veteran penturners may know the answer. In a way, I hope it does yellow a bit, especially with the Maple. I think the yellowing would give the Maple a warm glow, especially the Bird's Eye and the Fiddleback.

Lee Biggers
The ever curious pen turner []

 

[Scott]

Veteran! Is that a nice way of saying "Old"? ;-)

I really don't know what the long term values of the BLO/CA finish is. I think I know who to ask, so I'll see if I can get an answer for you. But I agree, the combination of the CA and the BLO changes both of them. Although the BLO is in there, what you really end up with is a CA finish, even though the CA seems more gel-like as it's being applied.

Scott.

 

[melchioe]

As I understand the process of yellowing for BLO, it involves oxidation of the oil. Putting the CA into the mix should seal the whole thing, and keep oxygen from connecting with the oil.

I also agree with Lee, the yellowing might impart a nice variation to the right wood. After all, antiques build up a patina and are more valuable if not refinished, so I don't really see a problem if it does happen to yellow. Although i still think it'll be fine...

 

[J. Fred Muggs]

I know this a way late post to this thread. But maybe it'll help someone.

Over the past nine months I've done a pretty severe test of different pen finishes by carrying them stuck inside the collar of a golf shirt next to my hot sweaty chest on a construction site here in the sunny south. I figure a couple of weeks of that is far worse than the oils and sweat a pen would normally see in a lotta years.

What I found is that CA holds up far longer than any of the friction polishes, waxes, laquers, and even polyurethanes. The problem of course is getting it applied properly.

After trying most of the techniques I've found described on this site plus some, I finally settled on sort of a combination of what Daniel and Daledut describe above.

I wipe a coat of <b>thin</b> CA with the grain of the blank with the lathe stopped and turning by hand. I use paper towels folded to give a 4 layer thickness. I probably use 4 -6 drops on the corner of the towel. I wear a nitrile glove so I'm certain not to glue my finger to the blank. The Thin CA does dry <b>very fast</b>, so, you cannot waste any time. But there is ample time to do the job. A quick back and forth wipe while rotating on the lower blank. Ditto for the upper and you're done. Get the wet part of the towel away from your finger. in seconds the towel starts to smoke from the chemical action of the glue. If you get your wet fore finger away from the towel, you can re-use the same glove several times.

In 30 seconds or less the thin CA is dry and ready to work. The first coat is acting only as a sealer, and, depending on the wood, may need several coats to be properly sealed. Most of the time I don't need to do any sanding between or after coats of the CA. When I occasionally do, I use 6/0 steel wool or 2000 or higher paper. Remember, <b>the CA is used only as a sealer</b>.

Then I apply a friction polish. This gives me the smooth glass like final finish and smell etc. that <b>my customers</b>, at least, seem to really like. I finally put a coat of a good paste wax on top of everything.

My philosophy here is this: The CA provides a seal that Protects the wood from oils and moisture and will keep the wood looking like it just came off the lathe for a long time. The Friction polish provides the glass-like new look but, when it wears down the CA still protects the wood. This seems to me to be the better of both worlds.

I include with each pen I sell a brief statement on the care and waxing of the pen to restore that new shine to the wood. So far, I've had no customer complaints.

The best thing is I get a good looking finish with a very durable undercoat in less than five minutes.

 

[DCBluesman]

Now that you've made it "Lou-proof", I'll have to try it. Thanks for these instructions, Fred.

 

[jkirkb94]

Dale, thanks for the simplified technique! I tried and avoided CA finishes because of the hassle of contiued sanding. This way looks easier. Kirk[8D]