leehljp
Member Liaison
My first new thread in a long time. Been gone - considerable work ongoing since my first retirement. And I still haven't had time in 5 years to set my Dust Collector up so that I could turn pens. (Severe allergy to CA fumes.)
MY Tip for good alignment for when using material such as brass, aluminum, plastic card stock etc, between certain segments when multiple segments cross or overlap such as in CELTIC CROSSES and SCALLOPS:
1. Choose a material (aluminum or plastic or brass or ply) that is the same thickness as the kerf of the cut. Measure the kerf of the cut (Blade Kerf) and find the material of that thickness. Use calipers to measure this.
In Reverse:
2. if you have a specific material that is of a specific thickness, measure and look for a blade that is of that thickness to make the cut. Use calipers to measure this.
Again:
3. It is the thickness of the cut/kerf/blade tip AND matching thickness of the material that makes alignments perfect. Use calipers to determine if they match.
I have been out a good while and in coming back to the forum recently to visit, I noticed that some of what would otherwise be good segmenting work - is off because the kerf and material thickness do not match. GOOD Eye Candy Segment matches takes a little extra planning.
I know that to some people it doesn't matter that much and I am just being Obsessive Compulsive. :biggrin: Hey, I know that.
But some people might not know the formula. It might take a little extra time searching for the right material, or looking for the right blade, even if it is a special order one to match the material - it will be worth it if you will be doing considerable segmenting in the future.
When I was in Japan, I found a store than had 120 mm (about 5 inches) carbide blades of different kerf thickness - .9mm, 1mm, 1.1 mm, 1.2mm, 1.4mm. and bought one of each. I haven't had time to use them, but I did find that specialty blades like this could be purchased in the states, but you have to hunt for them. I found a couple of places 6 years ago, one in Florida and one near Chicago that had 1mm and other carbide blades and some could be special ordered. I can't find the links now, but I am sure that if they cannot be found, there are other companies that will have them. Price might be too high for a one or two pen job, but if you see this as an often pen design, it may be worth it.
PART 2: It is easier to settle on a thin kerf blade (table saw or band saw) and then find material thickness to match. Several companies sell aluminum, brass and plastic sheets in varying thickness, mm and inch that is easier to match to a blade kerf thickness than the other way around. Most quality band saw blade companies and table/circular saw blade companies post their kerf thickness. Check them out and check out the companies that sell aluminum, brass and plastic sheets of varying color and thicknesses.
It makes all the difference in the world when kerfs and material match in thickness.
PS, I have been home this past two days with a severe cold/allergy reaction. Nothing to do but catch up on long long overdue reading and posting.
MY Tip for good alignment for when using material such as brass, aluminum, plastic card stock etc, between certain segments when multiple segments cross or overlap such as in CELTIC CROSSES and SCALLOPS:
1. Choose a material (aluminum or plastic or brass or ply) that is the same thickness as the kerf of the cut. Measure the kerf of the cut (Blade Kerf) and find the material of that thickness. Use calipers to measure this.
In Reverse:
2. if you have a specific material that is of a specific thickness, measure and look for a blade that is of that thickness to make the cut. Use calipers to measure this.
Again:
3. It is the thickness of the cut/kerf/blade tip AND matching thickness of the material that makes alignments perfect. Use calipers to determine if they match.
I have been out a good while and in coming back to the forum recently to visit, I noticed that some of what would otherwise be good segmenting work - is off because the kerf and material thickness do not match. GOOD Eye Candy Segment matches takes a little extra planning.
I know that to some people it doesn't matter that much and I am just being Obsessive Compulsive. :biggrin: Hey, I know that.
But some people might not know the formula. It might take a little extra time searching for the right material, or looking for the right blade, even if it is a special order one to match the material - it will be worth it if you will be doing considerable segmenting in the future.
When I was in Japan, I found a store than had 120 mm (about 5 inches) carbide blades of different kerf thickness - .9mm, 1mm, 1.1 mm, 1.2mm, 1.4mm. and bought one of each. I haven't had time to use them, but I did find that specialty blades like this could be purchased in the states, but you have to hunt for them. I found a couple of places 6 years ago, one in Florida and one near Chicago that had 1mm and other carbide blades and some could be special ordered. I can't find the links now, but I am sure that if they cannot be found, there are other companies that will have them. Price might be too high for a one or two pen job, but if you see this as an often pen design, it may be worth it.
PART 2: It is easier to settle on a thin kerf blade (table saw or band saw) and then find material thickness to match. Several companies sell aluminum, brass and plastic sheets in varying thickness, mm and inch that is easier to match to a blade kerf thickness than the other way around. Most quality band saw blade companies and table/circular saw blade companies post their kerf thickness. Check them out and check out the companies that sell aluminum, brass and plastic sheets of varying color and thicknesses.
It makes all the difference in the world when kerfs and material match in thickness.
PS, I have been home this past two days with a severe cold/allergy reaction. Nothing to do but catch up on long long overdue reading and posting.
Last edited:
