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Old 02-08-2012, 04:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Cleaning Rust off of a lathe

I have had my lathe in outside storage for a few months and have moved it back into our garage. I have purchased some T-9 to aid in cleaning the rust off my lathe. Would it be appropriate to use steel wool with the T-9 to clean the rust.

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Old 02-08-2012, 04:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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IIRC the T-9 is more for rust protection than removal.
I've used the Scotch brite style pads on my random orbital sander to speed things up a bit.
Once clean, don't forget to use wood paste was or the T-9 to protect the ways from rust.
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Old 02-08-2012, 04:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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I have used the Rust Free product in that line and just needed a green scrub pad, but then I have never had to bring something back from outside storage. At the most it was just condensation caused by using a propane heater.

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Old 02-09-2012, 09:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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I use sandpaper and a sanding block. I start at the highest grit I can while still being aggressive enough to remove the rust. Then I move to a higher grit to get a nice shine. Finally I coat it with a good wax for protection and frictionless movement of the material being cut.
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:38 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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I typically use 0000 steel wool to clean up the rust, of course it depends on how deep that rust is, hopefully its just topical. Once that is cleaned up, i use Johnson's paste wax and rub a couple of coats on and wipe off the remaining with a clean t-shirt. tailstock will slide like a charm! I do this about once a week to my lathe and scroll saw table as routine maintenance so i dont have to worry about rust. I have found that on my scroll saw table where i rest my hands(when holding an object to cut) that within a couple of weeks, the moisture in my skin will cause rust to form. makes sense now, but for a while there i couldnt figure out where in the heck it was coming from, it was always in the same two areas
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:43 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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I saw a Mythbusters episode where the best rust cleaner ended up being diet soda! : ) Good luck.
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinPens View Post
I saw a Mythbusters episode where the best rust cleaner ended up being diet soda! : ) Good luck.
That would be the phosphoric acid. If you want a stronger version that sticks, use Naval Jelly.
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Old 02-09-2012, 03:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Thanks for all the advice.

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Old 02-09-2012, 03:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Before using the very expensive Boeshield T9, you should apply a generous coating of either naval jelly or hog snott (motorcycle rust remover) and let the pink jelly sit undisturbed for 20 minutes. Then remove the "pilled up" rust with WD40, a putty applicator and a scotch bite abrasive pad. I WOULD NEVER APPLY SANDPAPER TO THE BED OF MY LATHE, but there are many opinions on this.

If the first "snott" application did not remove all the rust, keep repeating applications until all rust is dissolved. TAKE CARE TO KEEP THE PINK JELLY OFF OF PAINTED PARTS AS BOTH NAVAL JELLY AND HOG SNOTT WILL REMOVE PAINT.

AFTER all rust has bee removed, clean again with WD40 and towel dry. THEN apply one generous coat of T-9. Allow the Boeshield to dry completely, then apply a second coat.

Then a monthly re-application of T-9 should keep the rust from reappearing.
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Old 02-09-2012, 04:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoatRider View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinPens View Post
I saw a Mythbusters episode where the best rust cleaner ended up being diet soda! : ) Good luck.
That would be the phosphoric acid. If you want a stronger version that sticks, use Naval Jelly.
That is exactly correct....... AND people wonder why the shouldn't drink diet sodas. They are SUGAR FREE.....blink, blink:)
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