Bottle Stoppers

fitzman163 · 11-24-2008, 07:25 PM

I maid a few stoppers and seem to have a problem getting a flush fit between the wood and the stopper. Not sure if threading the wood on the mandrel is the problem I drill the blank on the drill press which is straight.Once in a while I tap the hole which is hard to get straight. Has anyone had this problem

Skye · 11-24-2008, 08:08 PM

How are you squaring the end of the blank up? I usually drill the blank, then take a parting tool or a scraper (depending on how off it is) and square up the end of the blank. I think the only way to be sure you're going to get a flush fit is if you both tap and flush it without taking it out of the 4-jaw chuck.

el_d · 11-24-2008, 08:37 PM

I use a large paddle bit to square the hole and then drill the hole for the tap that I use in my mandrell.

Skye · 11-24-2008, 08:43 PM

Hey, that's a good idea. Did you shorten the shaft on the bit to reduce vibration?

fitzman163 · 11-24-2008, 08:49 PM

Thats a great idea I might try a forstner bit. Just like using a barrel trimmerThanks for the info.

maxwell_smart007 · 11-24-2008, 08:52 PM

What I do is screw the bottle stopper onto the base as far as it will go. If it leaves a slight gap, I unscrew it...

The screw will stay in the bottle stopper. I take a pair of plyers and give it a final turn or two, and make sure that all of the larger threads are in the wood...then it should screw in perfectly fine!

Andrew

el_d · 11-24-2008, 09:12 PM

No Just a regular stock black n decker bit, then my mandrel bit. Ill apply some thin CA to the hole to help strengthen the wood and tap away. I was having some slipping before I used the CA. Just make sure its nice and dry before you set it up on your mandrel.

GouletPens · 11-24-2008, 10:46 PM

I'm assuming you're talking about the cone-shaped bottle stoppers.....I use the teardrop ones exclusively...the mandrel setup is different and doesn't need to be fit flush like the cone ones. Check out the ones at Woodcraft. Maybe you could just try those!

Skye · 11-25-2008, 09:02 AM

Well, one problem with the tear drop ones is there's no stainless steel option on them. The ones you're talking about are chrome and in time (year or so) it can start to pit and flake. It takes a while but eventually I expect they'll all fail with regular use.

GouletPens · 11-25-2008, 11:33 AM

That's a good point....Maybe I should ask Berea about making a stainless teardrop one. The cone ones are just not my flavor...I really don't like them. Plus, they don't seal as well as the o-ring ones. Not that I ever have a half bottle to save

11-24-2008, 07:25 PM	#1 (permalink)
fitzman163 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Middletown,PA via The Coal Region,Pittston, PA, USA. Posts: 253 Photos: 0	Bottle Stoppers I maid a few stoppers and seem to have a problem getting a flush fit between the wood and the stopper. Not sure if threading the wood on the mandrel is the problem I drill the blank on the drill press which is straight.Once in a while I tap the hole which is hard to get straight. Has anyone had this problem __________________ Jim Fitzpatrick Middletown, PA via The Coal Region www.facebook.com Pens By Fitzy

11-24-2008, 08:08 PM	#2 (permalink)
Skye Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Rock Hill, SC Posts: 3,491 Photos: 9	How are you squaring the end of the blank up? I usually drill the blank, then take a parting tool or a scraper (depending on how off it is) and square up the end of the blank. I think the only way to be sure you're going to get a flush fit is if you both tap and flush it without taking it out of the 4-jaw chuck. __________________ Ok, first of all; I'm not 100% in love with your tone right now.

11-24-2008, 08:37 PM	#3 (permalink)
el_d Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Lockhart, Tx, USA. Posts: 3,362 Photos: 63	I use a large paddle bit to square the hole and then drill the hole for the tap that I use in my mandrell. __________________ " I am the gatekeeper of my own destiny, and I will have my glory day in the hot sun"

11-24-2008, 08:43 PM	#4 (permalink)
Skye Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Rock Hill, SC Posts: 3,491 Photos: 9	Hey, that's a good idea. Did you shorten the shaft on the bit to reduce vibration? __________________ Ok, first of all; I'm not 100% in love with your tone right now.

11-24-2008, 08:49 PM	#5 (permalink)
fitzman163 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Middletown,PA via The Coal Region,Pittston, PA, USA. Posts: 253 Photos: 0	Thats a great idea I might try a forstner bit. Just like using a barrel trimmerThanks for the info. __________________ Jim Fitzpatrick Middletown, PA via The Coal Region www.facebook.com Pens By Fitzy

11-24-2008, 08:52 PM	#6 (permalink)
maxwell_smart007 Assistant Moderator Vendor Liaison Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Lac du Bois - middle of nowhere, in the Great White North Posts: 5,151 Photos: 0	What I do is screw the bottle stopper onto the base as far as it will go. If it leaves a slight gap, I unscrew it... The screw will stay in the bottle stopper. I take a pair of plyers and give it a final turn or two, and make sure that all of the larger threads are in the wood...then it should screw in perfectly fine! Andrew __________________ "When it is dark enough, you can see the stars" "He who can no longer pause to wonder and stand rapt in awe, is as good as dead; his eyes are closed."

11-24-2008, 09:12 PM	#7 (permalink)
el_d Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Lockhart, Tx, USA. Posts: 3,362 Photos: 63	No Just a regular stock black n decker bit, then my mandrel bit. Ill apply some thin CA to the hole to help strengthen the wood and tap away. I was having some slipping before I used the CA. Just make sure its nice and dry before you set it up on your mandrel. __________________ " I am the gatekeeper of my own destiny, and I will have my glory day in the hot sun" Last edited by el_d; 11-24-2008 at 09:16 PM.

11-24-2008, 10:46 PM	#8 (permalink)
GouletPens Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Ashland, VA Posts: 1,449 Photos: 22	I'm assuming you're talking about the cone-shaped bottle stoppers.....I use the teardrop ones exclusively...the mandrel setup is different and doesn't need to be fit flush like the cone ones. Check out the ones at Woodcraft. Maybe you could just try those! __________________ Wherever you go, there you are. Write On, Brian Goulet The Goulet Pen Company Ashland, Va. www.GouletPens.com

11-25-2008, 09:02 AM	#9 (permalink)
Skye Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Rock Hill, SC Posts: 3,491 Photos: 9	Well, one problem with the tear drop ones is there's no stainless steel option on them. The ones you're talking about are chrome and in time (year or so) it can start to pit and flake. It takes a while but eventually I expect they'll all fail with regular use. __________________ Ok, first of all; I'm not 100% in love with your tone right now.

11-25-2008, 11:33 AM	#10 (permalink)
GouletPens Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Ashland, VA Posts: 1,449 Photos: 22	That's a good point....Maybe I should ask Berea about making a stainless teardrop one. The cone ones are just not my flavor...I really don't like them. Plus, they don't seal as well as the o-ring ones. Not that I ever have a half bottle to save __________________ Wherever you go, there you are. Write On, Brian Goulet The Goulet Pen Company Ashland, Va. www.GouletPens.com

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