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Old 05-21-2010, 05:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Alternative to special big drill bits

Here's an alternative to buying hard to find drill bits. It's called a Boring Head. They are used primarily in milling machines but are quite at home in a lathe tailstock too.

First you'd drill a hole smaller than what you need, then mount the boring head and adjust the bit so that it just skims the inside of the hole you drilled. Make a note of the setting on the dial and measure the diameter of the skimmed hole. Now just adjust the bit with the dial graduations till your kit tube fits perfectly.

This set is is nice because it came with various accessories.

I'll check the UK price from where I got this one, but I'm positive that you guys can get them cheaper. Possibly for the same price as 2 or 3 big drill bits.

Just checked...70 incl tax and UK delivery. http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/C..._Heads_89.html

Little Machine Shop has them for much cheaper...http://littlemachineshop.com/product...Product+Search Just pick and choose the head, morse taper and bit you want.
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Old 05-21-2010, 05:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Thanks for the advice!I did the same thing with a boring bar mounted in the bit holder cause I don't have a boring head for the tail stock yet!
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Old 05-21-2010, 05:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa Bear View Post
Thanks for the advice!I did the same thing with a boring bar mounted in the bit holder cause I don't have a boring head for the tail stock yet!

That's the traditional way on a metal lathe, but like this it can be used on a wood lathe too....

Here are tha pro's I can think of...

Can bore any size hole.
Blank doesn't get hot.
No blow out on the back of the blank.
Easier to sharpen the bits.

The only con I can think of is the limit of depth you can bore. You couldn't bore a blank for a long clicker for example. Unless you bought a length of tool rod and ground your own, which is dead easy anyway
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Old 05-21-2010, 05:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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well wouldnt that be the same issue with a regular length bit anyway? what is the smallest / biggest hole size something like that could do?


No matter far as i am concerned... This tool right here is AWESOME! Definately on my list... Thanks for sharing!!

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Old 06-18-2013, 06:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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OK, I'm convinced. But, it's not clear from the websites selling them, will it fit an M2 taper? Russ
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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MT2 Boring Head for Milling Machine | eBay

Here is an example of an mt2 boring head set on ebay

IF you follow Skips link You can buy the boring head seperate and the mt2 shank off the same page. I did not see a complete set but i didnt look to hard
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Here is an example of an mt2 boring head set on ebay

IF you follow Skips link You can buy the boring head seperate and the mt2 shank off the same page. I did not see a complete set but i didnt look to hard[/quote]

Thank you! That's really helpful. Actually, I can't find things - especially when they are right in front of me. Ask my wife . . .

This looks like a great accessory to have. Thanks to you both. Russ
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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If you want to use one of these in your tailstock, make sure your tailstock has a thru hole for a draw bar. Without a draw bar, you may find using a boring bar head in the tailstock to be anything but boring.

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Old 06-19-2013, 01:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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why would he need a through hole. It would have no more issue pulling out than a drill chuck on an mt2.
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Old 06-19-2013, 01:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mredburn View Post
why would he need a through hole. It would have no more issue pulling out than a drill chuck on an mt2.
My view of the world:

Drill chucks can and do pull out of MT. Usually the lateral force of drilling will keep a drill chuck arbor seated. But drilling with some bits at a rate less than the bit wants to feed can unseat the arbor.

A boring head is not going to have the same lateral force keeping the arbor seated. An inexperienced user may get more vibration during roughing operations. It seems to me that both significantly increase the risk of the boring head arbor unseating unless a drawbar is used.

A drill chuck arbor coming loose during drilling is probably not the end of the world. A boring head arbor that comes loose with a long bar that digs into the interior surface could be bad news.

At least that's the way I see it.

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