Where is the heat coming from?

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Rounder

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I am having a problem with heat (and noise) in the head stock of my Jet 1014 lathe. I figure heat is from friction. Only place there is friction is in moving parts. Moving parts in the head stock equals bearings and shaft. OK, most likely problem = bearings. Buy new bearings and replace old ones. I'm thinking YEAH, it will now be quite like my son's (Timebandit), NOT!!!:eek: It is still making the same ticking noise and heats up in just a couple minutes to where you better not leave your finger in the MT hole very long while cleaning it out or you will get burnt. And this is with nothing on the lathe with no pressure against the head stock. Remove the belt and the motor is quite and smooth running. All set screws on the motor and head stock shaft are tight. Sheaves are lined up straight.
Any ideas, suggestions or donation of brand new high dollar fancy smancy lathe would be greatly appreciated and most helpful.:wink:

Thanks for such a great place to come to and see great ideas and get help.
 
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KenV

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Randy -- My Jet 1014 is loaned out so I cannot check, but the other friction points are the alignment of the belt sheeves and the motor sheeves. The set screw could be loose on the shaft - and has moved causing some noise also.

With the motor belt connection loose, mine has very little drag turning the spindle by hand. Absent any significant drag, check the sheeves for alignment as that can cause both heat and noise.
 

Rounder

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Randy -- My Jet 1014 is loaned out so I cannot check, but the other friction points are the alignment of the belt sheeves and the motor sheeves. The set screw could be loose on the shaft - and has moved causing some noise also.

With the motor belt connection loose, mine has very little drag turning the spindle by hand. Absent any significant drag, check the sheeves for alignment as that can cause both heat and noise.

Thanks for the suggestion Ken but as noted in my post, the sheaves are lined up and set screws are tight. But there is some resistance while trying to turn the shaft by hand with the belt loose. I am starting to lean towards a shaft problem. This is a used lathe that was damaged during shipment when Timebandit bought it off of Ebay (he did get his money back and the guy told him to keep the damaged lathe, he had no use for it). He bought a new one and gave this one to me for my birthday to suck me into the same vortex he was in. I will have to get the dial indicator out and make sure there is no wobble in the shaft. After that, if it is OK, not sure where to look.
 
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rixstix

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Check to see if the handwheel is rubbing. Should just be a setscrew holding it in place. I had similar symptoms and found that the handwheel had been "bumped" pretty hard.
 

Rounder

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Thanks I will check that. I didn't get to check the shaft with the dial indicator yet. Me and LOML went on a road trip yesterday so I will try to check these tonight.
Thanks for the suggestions.
 

PenMan1

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With the 1014, this heat and noise is likely coming from one or two causes.

1. Check the belt to make sure that the grooves in the belt fit EXACTLY into the pulley indentions. If the belt is to one side or the other of the grooves, it will rub against the next pulley. This produces a "chirping" sound and builds up heat because of belt side rub against the adjoining pulley. If this is the cause, there will be excessive belt wear on one or both sides of the pulley. If the belt's center looks good, but the edges are frayed, this is likely the cause. It also requires belt replacement.

2. Check both inside and outside of the headstock. Use a dime. You should be able to get a dime between the cast headstock housing and the collar for the 1x8 threads. You should have similar clearance between the cast headstock and the interior ring. If you don't have the clearances, the set screws that hold the top pulley in place have loosened and allowed the pulley to slip out of alignment.

I doubt that is the bearings! On the Jet 1014, when the bearings go, they almost always rupture the seal and sling grease everywhere. If your lathe is not covered with black grease, it is likely not bearings,

The Jet 1014 owners manual (also available on line) does a very good job telling about belt replacement and alignment.
 
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I don't have any issues with my 1014... everything is aligned and runs smooth... little heat building except from the electric motor.

My 1442 though, I've had trouble with the pulley slipping on the motor shaft against the motor housing... this will create a "ticking" noise and some friction heat.... I loosen the set screw and slip the pulley back against the spring and re-tighten the set screw and usually stops the noise.

On the 1014, if your set screw on the pulley array has loosened, your pulley array may be slipping on the shaft. The friction will build up heat that will transmit through the shaft to the M2 slot and you'll feel the heat when you put your finger inside the opening. The ticking noise may be the set screw ticking against the shaft... I'm not certain but I think there is a small flat on the shaft where the set screws tighten down and if the screws are backed off enough for them to lose contact and let the pulley turn, they might just be ticking where the flat ends and the shaft becomes round again.
 

Rounder

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Upon changing the bearings, I know that the sheaves are lined up and the set screws are tight. 1 setscrew tightens down on the key in the key slot and the other on the shaft. I aligned the sheaves by taking a straight edge and placing it against the motor sheave and then aligning the shaft sheave with the straight edge. Then I tightened the dickens out of the set screws.
Within a minute of starting up the motor, the shaft was very warm. Within 2 minutes the shaft was hot. I can hear the ticking noise while turning the shaft by hand with the belt disengaged from the motor. Just can't seem to locate where the noise is coming from.
I shall keep digging. I will NOT be defeated! GIVE ME A PROPERLY WORKING LATHE OR GIVE ME DEATH! (ok, maybe not death but you get my point).
 

KenV

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I read what you said about the alignment process and you controlled on the outside of the sheeves -- read Andy's response and we were both wanting you to take a very critical look at how the belts are fitting and running. The insides of the sheeves are where there may be some missed fit.

If the belts are looking good and no frays, and the hand wheel is off, try to do a short run and find where the heat is sourced (friction is happening).

It normally takes a lot of bend to cause bearing heat -- that that can often be seen at either one end of the shaft or the other
 
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its_virgil

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I had that ticking sound once. Does the frequency increase with rpm speed? Mine ticking was a partially broken belt. One of the wires inside the belt had been exposed and was hitting on something each time it rotated. Cutting off the broken and exposed wire solved that problem until a new belt arrived. Have not had a heat problem. I hope you find the culprit.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
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