Taig 4 jaw scroll chuck 20.00

[dogcatcher]

Dogcatcher,

The instructions you quote (for 3-jaw chuck) do not apply to this chuck (4-jaw chuck).

The instructions will work, it doesn't matter if is it a 3 jaw 4 jaw or 100 jaws, that is the way to true up a chuck. But the problem is wood lathes do not have a tool rest capable of do that. All of Taig's lathes were designed to be trued up by the users.

If someone has a cross slide, even a drill press cross slide they may be able to rig up a cutter using a Dremel with a sanding drum as a cutter, but your runout will only get better if all your parameters are done correctly.

 

[bmachin]

Although there is no way to use a boring bar with a wood lathe, a boring head would do the trick.

Purchasing one would be a pretty expensive solution for a one-time use such as this.

I've often thought though, that a boring head might be a good method for turning precise and parallel outside diameters for the purpose of making kitless pens without a metal lathe.

Not cheap, but if you could find a used one it might be worth thinking about.

Bill

 

[sbwertz]

I got 2 delivered today. Not totally impressed.
Spent over an hour taking it apart and de-greasing it. What a mess.
The headstock spindle on my lathe has too long a thread section and I'll need to get a spacer that is about 3/8" thick to take up the difference.


Also, before I took it apart I checked it with a dial indicator.
The outer casing was nearly dead on with about .0005" runout, guessing here cause it was small.
However, checking it with a good drill bit the jaws were out by .10" so I may need to work on those.

These were packed away and stored on a shelf for 20 years! Be glad they were well greased.

I reversed the jaws so the pointy ends were out and the square jaws were in for holding wood blanks.

 

[Dale Allen]

I ordered an arbor spacer that is 1" ID and is 3/8" thick. It worked great as the spacer and has very close tolerances.
I also did some more work on the jaws and they are now running quite true.
What I also now realize it that the .002" runout on the head stock is apparently in the dead center because this chuck is less than .001 runout, measured with a go gauge clamped in the jaws.


I'm also going to make a protector band using some craft foam to wrap around the chuck and over the jaws. I just don't like those jaws sticking out like that and spinning so close to my knuckles.

 

[sbwertz]

I ordered an arbor spacer that is 1" ID and is 3/8" thick. It worked great as the spacer and has very close tolerances.
I also did some more work on the jaws and they are now running quite true.
What I also now realize it that the .002" runout on the head stock is apparently in the dead center because this chuck is less than .001 runout, measured with a go gauge clamped in the jaws.


I'm also going to make a protector band using some craft foam to wrap around the chuck and over the jaws. I just don't like those jaws sticking out like that and spinning so close to my knuckles.

At the blind center I wrap my chuck with vet wrap, then put a big rubber band around it to help it stay on during rotation. It stretches and fits around the protrusions, and eliminates the flying edges and corners. Haven't tried it on the taig chucks yet, but use it all the time on our Nova chuck. It might be a good way to hold the craft foam in place.