Rikon lathe part question- anyone know the size of the knockout bar for this?

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angboy

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So I'd been using my Rikon 70-050VS lathe as nothing but a buffing wheel, so have to now remove the parts that were holding that in place for literally years, in order to use it for turning. I couldn't loosen it by hand or by any other method I tried. I finally found, in a box of supplies, the spanner that will fit around the area that the bottom yellow area points to, but in order to get counterforce, I need something- that may have been a knockout bar that I misplaced- to insert into the two arrow section so that I can twist these in opposite directions in order to remove that face plate. I looked all through the manual and can't find anything about a size and all the rod type pieces of metal I had in my shop are too big. Anyone know what size this might be so that I could go to somewhere like a hardware store and just get a metal rod? I want to be able to remove the faceplate so I can screw on bottle stopper mandrels.

Thank you!
 

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dogcatcher

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The top arrow is a set screw that holds the handwheel on.

I believe it is a 5/16"; If you have a PSI tommy bar set, like the ones in the collet chuck set, it will most likely fit.
 

angboy

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The top arrow is a set screw that holds the handwheel on.

I believe it is a 5/16"; If you have a PSI tommy bar set, like the ones in the collet chuck set, it will most likely fit.


So then since I'm not able to get that faceplate off, am I just not using enough force? I thought that hole at the top arrow went all the way through- guess I didn't look that closely, and could provide sort of a level to twist the other end with the spanner off. I tried just holding that wheel on the top and using the spanner at the bottom arrow and nothing nudged, but maybe it's just on there too tight for me.
 

eharri446

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The hole above the hex nut is where you would insert you bar to give you the counter force to remove the face plate. I would try using some WD40 on the threads before you attempt to loosen in case it is frozen in place. Also remember that the face plate has left hand threads so to remove it would need to turn clockwise instead of counter clockwise as you normally would.

If you do get it off and used some WD40 or some other type of penetrating oil, make sure that you clean of the oily residue otherwise it is going to collect saw dust and shavings like a magnet.
 

JimB

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The hole above the hex nut is where you would insert you bar to give you the counter force to remove the face plate. I would try using some WD40 on the threads before you attempt to loosen in case it is frozen in place. Also remember that the face plate has left hand threads so to remove it would need to turn clockwise instead of counter clockwise as you normally would.

If you do get it off and used some WD40 or some other type of penetrating oil, make sure that you clean of the oily residue otherwise it is going to collect saw dust and shavings like a magnet.

I don't think your comment about the threading is correct. All my lathes are 'normal' threading. Turn right to tighten, left to loosen.
 

Curly

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Get a rod to fit the hole by the faceplate. A long bolt with the threads cut off will work if you can't find a rod. Don't try to hold or clamp the hand wheel because if it moves you may loosen or tighten the bearings. It is how many small lathes are held together.

When you get the rod put it in the hole, rotate the shaft until the bolt contacts the side of the lathe bed. If the bolt/rod is too short put a block of wood in front of the lathe for it to contact. Put the wrench on the hex so it is approximately horizontal between you and the lathe as you stand in front of it. Now take a hammer and while pushing down on the wrench hit it hard. Repeat as needed. Unless the faceplate is rusted solidly it will break free in a hit or two.
 

angboy

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Thanks for all the ideas- I did try the using something in the one hole and bracing it against the bed of the lathe and then tapping on the spanner with the hammer. Seemed like that was going to work- I'd already applied WD-40 so thought that would help, but it only bent the tip end of the bar I was using... I think the thing has just been on there so long that it may be there forever. I did figure out how to at least use the faceplate to be able to turn the few things I needed to do for a show in two weeks, so I'll just do it this way and come back to trying to solve this problem in a few weeks. But I appreciate the ideas- gave me some insight into how it's all set up and what approaches and tactics I need to consider.
 

gtriever

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Been here, done this, and it was a pain. Yes to Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster. Soak several times and let it work for about a day, then go back to the spanner /bar/hammer. Several short taps rather than a big swing will work better. Heating it with a torch or heat gun can help too, if necessary.
 

Woodchipper

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Remember, there was a saying in the military- Don't force it, use a bigger hammer.
Or you could use this as an excuse to buy an new and bigger lathe.
 
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