Needing some help from members

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tcjones

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Jun 23, 2016
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sitka alaska
Good evening, My name is Tom. I just joined up yesterday and I'm having a hard time finding a place to ask a few questions about the preference of dimentions of blanks for turning you guys like. I have seen on the net 5/8" and 3/4".
I like very much to hear from any one with information both the weres and hows of putting this question up.
 
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KenV

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Oct 28, 2005
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Juneau, Alaska.
Welcome Tom

The size of blank relates to the size of the pen being produced, and the skill of the Turner in drilling holes in pen blanks.

A 1/2 inch blank can make a slimline pen. It takes a larger blank to drill a 37/64 hole.
 

tcjones

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Jun 23, 2016
Messages
7
Location
sitka alaska
Thanks Ken , for the reply. Were almost neighbors. I have a few questions I want to get out but not tonight , getting to late .
 

mecompco

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Apr 24, 2015
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Fairfield, Maine
I'll always take the smallest blank I can get for a project. It only makes sense. It irritates me to turn a 3/4" or 7/8" blank into mostly shavings when a 5/8th would work. It does get a little trickier to drill blanks smaller than 5/8th (think piano keys!). Basically, if the blank will cover the bushings, and you're confident you can put a straight hole in it, you're good to go. Just MHO.

Regards,
Michael
 
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Edgar

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Feb 6, 2013
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Alvin, TX 77511
I prefer at least 3/4" blanks because of the extra margin for drilling. I usually don't even bother to mark centers - I just clamp them in my pen blank vice, eyeball the bit lineup, clamp things down & drill.

I have to be more careful when drilling smaller blanks & especially so when they're as small as 1/2".
 

tcjones

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Joined
Jun 23, 2016
Messages
7
Location
sitka alaska
The reason I'm asking is I have some piece that may not work well with heat from the drilling. With that , would you prefer thick to absorb the heat or thin to dissipate the heat? Or if the material is heat shy would you go for slow drill , little at a time and let cool down , both?
I'm new,new to all this.
Thanks, Tom
 

firewhatfire

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Mar 7, 2011
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3,813
Location
Columbiana, Alabama
Sounds like you have walrus or mastodon ivory to drill, just guessing. If that is why it is the step drill method and a short distance at a time is key.

As far as which blanks are preferred 3/4 to 7/8 even up to 1 inch square.
 

tcjones

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Jun 23, 2016
Messages
7
Location
sitka alaska
I don't have much time to reply , maybe later. Good guess on you. I made a set of pistol grips this last winter from some old , well dried mammoth ivory and have pieces left over.
I like new projects, keeps me sharp, I think?
Thanks, Tom
 

howsitwork

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Jul 9, 2016
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Thirsk
Mammoth ivory ??? How come?
We're doing Meldenhall ( probably spelt that wrongl)glacier this august. I shall have to keep my eyes open. If I tell my sons not to touch or collect it that should work! Then just got to get it back to UK!
 

howsitwork

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Jul 9, 2016
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On a more serious note Bill Jones , now sadly deceased but incredible wood and ivory turner said something about drilling ivory in some of his notes I have. I will have a looksee what he recommends , might take a while to come back to you as they're "safely stored"
 

howsitwork

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Thirsk
Found it~ !
To drill bone or ivory ( and he claimed to have worked Mammoth tooth ivory (probably correctly as he had many sources ) BillJones recommended soaking for at least a hour or boiling for the same before working it. He also recommended holdig it in a 4 jaw chuck or a boxwood collet to ensure you gripwell but don't crush the ivory ( or bone) which will be soft. Very sharp drills and high speed ( he mentions 2,500 to 3,000 rpm )are the way to go apparently.
I have never worked bone yet ( although I do have some deer antler ) so cannot comment personally.
I saw Kip Christiansen many years back do some bone turning and he stressed the importance of good extraction whilst working it but he was using it DRY to Bills concern but it worked ok.
Hope that's of use.
 
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