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Old 01-02-2017, 06:10 AM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Hey, I still like the Massaccar Ebony ... :)


Has those golden/tan streaks running through the wood .... Just beautiful when the sun hits it!

And if I need something to look solid black on the outside, I'll grab some black paint and hit it with a coat or two between my CA layers....


What he and I were both aiming for was a look of a grained wood that is black all the way through. You can't really get that with ebony ... it's so densely grained that you really can't see much of a pattern, and if you finish it with CA you get nothing at all! Just a highly polished surface that looks EXACTLY like black plastic.

We want an alternative without having to spend the big bucks that looks black all the way through without requiring a ton of work, and still shows the grain patterning on examination... at least that's what I'm aiming for.


I already have a nice little supply of Gabon Ebony. I picked it up last year from here through another member ... a lot of it is in pen blank sizes and veneer strip sizes, but some of it is in bottle stopper and game call blank sizes.

It's gorgeous, rock hard, floats like lead, and solid black.
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Old 01-02-2017, 10:28 AM   #22 (permalink)
 
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Good luck trying.


www.bruce.com/hardwood/CB1275.asp
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Old 01-02-2017, 10:51 AM   #23 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by jttheclockman View Post
Good luck trying.


I went at this from another direction. I mixed some red dye in denatured alcohol. Drew it down under vacuum then let it soak all night. My thought here is that I can see the red dye against the wood and determine what sort of penetration I'm getting. I don't know but I think the alcohol will have the least effect on the wood expansion and contraction and should dry rather rapidly.


I realize each piece of wood is different as is each species. I'm trying to determine if it's even possible with good structurally sound wood.





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Old 01-02-2017, 10:58 AM   #24 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by jttheclockman View Post
Good luck trying.


I went at this from another direction. I mixed some red dye in denatured alcohol. Drew it down under vacuum then let it soak all night. My thought here is that I can see the red dye against the wood and determine what sort of penetration I'm getting. I don't know but I think the alcohol will have the least effect on the wood expansion and contraction and should dry rather rapidly.


I realize each piece of wood is different as is each species. I'm trying to determine if it's even possible with good structurally sound wood.





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Trans tint dyes are some of the most powerful dyes for wood.

I do understand what you guys are trying to do. You want to be able to work the wood after it is dyed. It is always easier to work the wood and then dye if possible then you do not have to worry so much about penetration. I played around with dying wood for some birdhouse ornaments some time ago. I used rit dyes with alcohol and it work fine but again I turned the piece first and then dyed it. Have use trans tint dyes as well to shade woods and they too work well and are deep penetraing but not all the way through.

I also started a couple years ago trying to get into dying toothpicks and this turned out to be much harder than expected. But I had gotten some good advice back then but never got back into trying it. that is also on my to do list.

I wish you guys all the luck. I gave you guys all the suggestions I had. I will watch this thread as it unfolds.
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Old 01-02-2017, 11:32 AM   #25 (permalink)
 
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Jttheclocman,

I really don't even need wood that's black all the way through. I just found the concept to be interesting and thought I'd give it a go. Really the vacuum pump, chamber and time are doing the work in the background.

I guess I'm going to have to consult the wood guru if I can remember what stack the book is in. I doubt the direct answer is in there but it may give some clues.




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Old 08-16-2018, 10:54 PM   #26 (permalink)
 
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I know this is an older thread, but today I just came across this video from 2013 .... The end consensus with it is, use India Ink for best penetration and solid black color.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0E7E6uSPJY

Several different methods were discussed and explored, including the standard ebonizing formula (iron acetate), adding concentrated tea for the tannic acid content to make it darker, use of leather dye, and finally use of the india ink made with alcohol and shellac. The india ink is the only one where the coloration effect should NOT affect any finish applied over it, while the other two may interact with the finish.
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Old 08-19-2018, 02:07 PM   #27 (permalink)
 
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Bob , don`t know if you have a stabilizing set-up or not , but I think maybe if you were to pull a good vacuum on the wood totally immersed in your solution for 4 hours or so until the bubbles stop , then release it and allow atmospheric pressure to force the liquid into the pores for a day , you might ? shorten the time frame from 2 years to a few months .

Mate, I wish I had a vacuum system.
Maybe next Christmas.

Bob
It won't pull a strong vacuum like a real vacuum system, but a foodsaver does a good job. I've used it with minwax stabilizer with considerable success. I have one that is only for the shop and another for the kitchen LOL. I use the canning jar attachment and submerge the pieces in the liquid then use the foodsaver to evacuate the jar. It seals with a regular canning jar lid.
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