I don't understand my Oneway Talon-HELP Please!

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When I mount a piece in the Talon, the end inserted inside ends up with the little gouges from the teeth of the Talon. How do I eliminate these? I was just making a little toothpick holder and had a terrible time getting the gouges out. Am I doing something wrong?:(
 
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dubdrvrkev

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Whatever I clamp in the jaws I consider waste. You can work with a very small tennon, a 1/4" and less is plenty to grip most work. You could also use a glue block is you can't spare that much, or make a recess and expand into it. I personally don't use jaws with serrations but I have seen indents in the wood from the jaws.
 

KenV

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Bev,

Which jaws were you using?? I ask because I tend to hold small pieces in my spigot (1) jaws which are smooth. They have undilations on the outside, which I fit into recesses of about 1 inch or larger. I rarely use the #2 jaws that came with the chuck, but remember them as having the undilations inside the jaws.

I usually leave the pieces long and use the square in the jaws and use the tail stock for support turning it round. I part off the turning ahead of the jaws.

Bonnie Klein makes the point in books and DVD to never put finished work in the chuck jaws. I only put the recess on the base in the jaws (as in the base of a bowl).

I use a lot of pine blocks on face plates as the alternative, and the Beal Collet chuck to hold a stub spigot end.
 

Doghouse

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Bev,
That is normal with all chucks. That is why you turn your foot as the last step. after you finish turning the inside of the bowl, flip it over and use either a friction chuck, vacuum chuck, or cole jaws to grip the bowl. Bring up your tailstock with as small a cone as you have and turn the bottom clean. THen use a chisel or sandpaper to clean up where the cone was.

Hope that helps, if not ask away.
 
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Bev.
I always start with a piece of wood that is longer then my planned project and part off that scetion and then finish turning the bottom using the methods John mentions above.
 
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