The "Dreaded SKEW"

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CREID

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Jul 23, 2008
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I just turned a 3/8 tube for an Executive with an acrylic blank. I turned it round with a round carbide, and then, (I think this where the pause goes), I switched to the "Dreaded Skew". It started out fine, then about half way through I started getting a little chatter. I adjusted the angle and remembered to go downhill. I finally finished the barrel, with the "Dreaded SKEW". There was a little sanding needed but I did finish with the "Dreaded SKEW". You know, with a couple more wins like that, I might actually believe the tide of this war with the "Dreaded SKEW" can turn. I know it's just one battle, but it was a big one! I may need a few days rest, it was a tough battle after all. But I will be back in the trenches soon as I have 3 more of those Exec's to do and then affix a decal and finish.:beat-up:
 
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Charlie_W

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Nov 16, 2011
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Curt.
Congrats on trying the skew! That is a big start for many.

The type of grind on your skew can make a huge difference in the learning curve for someone learning the tool. The typical concave grind left by the grinder wheel will tend to be more "grabby" than a flat or convex grind as you do not have true bevel support right past the cutting edge.

I have found and teach others that if you have your skew in motion in the direction you want to cut before engaging the cutting edge, it is much less likely to run back.

The amount of bevel can vary on skews. Some prefer a short bevel while others like a wider bevel allowing the skew to lie flatter on the work. Typically, the width of the bevel should be 1.5 times the thickness of the steel.

Easing the sharp corners on a flat stock skew will allow it to slide better on the tool rest like a skew with a radiused edge/ edges.

Also, file your tool rest if needed to remove any nicks which hinder the skew from sliding smoothly. I wax my tool rests to help. Steel on steel doesn't slide well without some form of lubrication.

Good luck!
 

JimB

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Mar 18, 2008
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West Henrietta, NY, USA.
Congratulations! You are on your way to mastering the best turning tool ever made. I struggled unsuccessfully for 6 or 7 years and had pretty much given up on it. About a year ago a turner from the local club with 35 years experience invited me to his shop. For about 4 hours he gave me hands on instruction on using the skew, including sharpening and honing, and 2 hours on other tools. I am now fairly comfortable with the skew. I learned more in that day than any other day of turning.
 

leehljp

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Feb 6, 2005
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Tunica, Mississippi,
I have had problems over the years learning to use the skew. I think I need the phrase "cut downhill". That may help. My lathe is in transition - in the process of being moved from one small shop to an AC/heated room. When it is finished, I will give the skew more attention.

However, according to an old mentor (Russ Fairfield), the skew has its place and the scraper has its place:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f28/requires-least-sanding-46171/#post842549

"What is always left out of any comparison of tool finishes is the wood. All things being equal, shear scraping can leave a better surface finish than a skew chisel on the very hard dense and close grained species, but it can't come anywhere close on everything else.

If you really want to see the extreme differences, try using a both scraper and skew on Cocobolo, Blackwood, or Desert Ironwood. You will find that the scraper might be the better tool for these very hard species. At the opposite extreme, the scraper will be a disaster on a soft wood like Douglas Fir or Pine, while a sharp skew can leave a smooth clean cut and polished surface that doesn't need sanding."
 

randyrls

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Feb 2, 2006
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Harrisburg, PA 17112
The type of grind on your skew can make a huge difference in the learning curve for someone learning the tool. The typical concave grind left by the grinder wheel will tend to be more "grabby" than a flat or convex grind as you do not have true bevel support right past the cutting edge.

AMEN!!! I always try to use a disk sander to "grind" the skew. It is much less grabby. Hone about 10 times with a diamond hone before taking it to the sandpaper again. You can even put a gentle convex curve on the skew.
 

CREID

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Thanks for all your encouragement. Yes turn downhill is something I have seen to be necessary. Don't ask why,because I don't know, but my skew is a 1" Robert Sorby with an oval shank. I mainly use carbide because I don't have a grinder so the "Dreaded SKEW" is something I can sharpen with my stones. When the cuts go right, I can see the value in the skew, they are almost ready for polishing.
 

JimB

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Mar 18, 2008
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West Henrietta, NY, USA.
Thanks for all your encouragement. Yes turn downhill is something I have seen to be necessary. Don't ask why,because I don't know, but my skew is a 1" Robert Sorby with an oval shank. I mainly use carbide because I don't have a grinder so the "Dreaded SKEW" is something I can sharpen with my stones. When the cuts go right, I can see the value in the skew, they are almost ready for polishing.

If you keep touching them up on your stones they will last a long time without needing a grinder.
 
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