almost a finger

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steamshovel

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A couple of days ago. I was ripping 1" strips on my table saw. I use my right hand & the push stick and my left hand pointing finger. I put my finger on the wood between the blade and the fence about center of blade and rip.

I started the cut and about half way I felt the end of my pointing finger getting hot. I looked and the end of my finger was on the blade but below the blades teeth. It was just rubbing against the flat surface. I moved my finger back a little and finished the cut and looked at my finger and there was a very tiny piece of skin and my finger was a little red. It was hot.

Back to the drawing board, I know what I should have been doing.

I don't have a TV, phone or radio to distract, I just moved my finger to far and almost.

Preston
 

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Dieseldoc

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Livermore, Ca 94550
Push stick
A couple of days ago. I was ripping 1" strips on my table saw. I use my right hand & the push stick and my left hand pointing finger. I put my finger on the wood between the blade and the fence about center of blade and rip.

I started the cut and about half way I felt the end of my pointing finger getting hot. I looked and the end of my finger was on the blade but below the blades teeth. It was just rubbing against the flat surface. I moved my finger back a little and finished the cut and looked at my finger and there was a very tiny piece of skin and my finger was a little red. It was hot.

Back to the drawing board, I know what I should have been doing.

I don't have a TV, phone or radio to distract, I just moved my finger to far and almost.




Preston


Push stick
 

mbroberg

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Mar 9, 2009
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Columbus, OH
:eek: See that red area around the blade? Fingers should never. ever, ever, under any circumstances be in that area while the saw is plugged in. :doctor:

It is always good to see a reminder about basic shop safety every once an awhile. I'm glad you were not hurt!!



This little device cost about the same as an office visit to a doctor, and much less than a trip to the ER.


https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-P...r=8-1-spons&keywords=gripper+push+block&psc=1 :wink:
 
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Curly

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Saskatoon SK., Canada.
Why do you have the fence on the left side of the blade? Normally for a right handed person the fence is to the right of the blade. Cutting like that would to me be awkward.

Perhaps you need to make some feather boards to hold the wood down.

If I had done that with the SawStop the brake would have triggered.


I'll add that it is good of you to show people how they could get into trouble doing such a thing. Thanks. Most would shut up and not allow themselves to be embarrassed.
 
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Wood Butcher

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Here's a device that works really well for me. Saw this years ago on a woodworking site and have made a lot of them.
WB
Oh, forgot, make these from a 10 or 12 in. piece of 2 x 6. It straddles the blade so you push both cut pieces through at once so no kick back and fingers out of the line of fire.
 

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greenacres2

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Here's a device that works really well for me. Saw this years ago on a woodworking site and have made a lot of them.
WB
Oh, forgot, make these from a 10 or 12 in. piece of 2 x 6. It straddles the blade so you push both cut pieces through at once so no kick back and fingers out of the line of fire.

I've got a pair of grippers, but my 2 x 6 pieces like Butcher's are what I trust most of the time. Takes 30 seconds to make on a bandsaw, then as they wear, I trim a few times, then they find another use and the whole thing begins again.

earl
 

jttheclockman

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Preston you are asking for trouble many ways to Sunday with that set up. First rule is never get complacent working around power tools. Just because you have done things 1000 of times does not mean you will not have a problem. Always be aware of problems.

Second thing is the fence on a tablesaw is always set up on the side of your dominant hand. That is the hand that will push the wood past the blade. You always push the wood both against the fence and through the blade on the fence side. Never put finger between the fence and blade. If any sort of kick back your finger is trapped both left and right.

Always use a push block. I have shown ones that are so easy to make and I I have many of them around. After awhile the blade will tear away too much of the hold down area so you just recut a new shoe hold. Look at the push block and you will notice a couple things. The hole to grip the push block is large and high enough it is always keeps your fingers away from the blade. You never raise the blade more than 4 teeth above the material you are cutting. The push block is long so that you are actually pushing down on the front of the material as the foot on the back end catches edge of material. I have used these type push blocks for many years and they have served me well in design and function. The addition of feather boards is also a good idea along with a riving knife on back end to prevent pinching of boards if there is internal stress in the board and prevents kick backs.

The only time you reverse the fence is if you have a right tilting blade and then you swing to other side. This goes for if you are left handed too the same rules will apply.

Being safe around a tablesaw or any power tool will require your attention and knowledge of that tool. Safe sawing.
 

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tomas

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It is amazing how quickly things can go to Hell in a hand-basket. The day after Thanksgiving (US) last year, I was cutting crown molding with my chop saw. I was doing an odd left-hand cut with the blade turned to 22.5 degrees. I was holding the molding with my right-hand against the right fence. Everything looked clear, but when I started the cut I felt severe pain in my right index finger. I had cut my finger with the backside of the blade. It cut to the bone from the side of the nail to the second joint. Although deep, I was lucky that there was no nerve or tendon damage and 17 sutures took care of closing it.

I am not saying this to upstage you thread. You were extremely lucky to come away with just a hot finger. From this incident on I double and triple check before making a cut.

Push sticks and feather boards are worth whatever it costs to buy them...but they have to be used.

You probably should have bought a lottery ticket that day.

Tomas
 
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Preston, Glad nothing serious happened.. the table saw is the scariest tool in my shop.. although I've been hurt more from the lathe, I am doubly careful on the TS.... it can whack a finger or hand off, throw it across the room before you can blink.... mine sits most of the time with a board on top that doubles as a catch all table.


No pictures, but the lathe almost removed a knuckle for me yesterday... was sanding inside an 8" bowl that had a sharp edge where I was sanding the under cut... I got too high on the inside of the bowl and centrifugal force took my hand for a loop around the bowl... took a chunk of hide off the index knuckle... took a bit to stop the bleeding. I keep a supply of band aides in the shop... I go through a lot of them.
 
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When I'm using any power tool in my shop my eyes never leave the piece I'm working on, period. I also don't have a tv or radio in the shop. I have focused lighting on the tool just not overhead light and the rules on the shop door, in bold, state "if you come into my shop and I'm using power tools, do not distract me". I had a cousin one time who decided he would sneak up on me while I was buffing a big Bowie I was making. I hate to think what would have happened had he not stepped back. You're very lucky you still have your finger and thanks for sharing this near injury. It reinforces how important shop safety is.
 

Dehn0045

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I also suggest using a riving knife. I know that there are arguments against them, but I feel that it is safer to use one than not. Even using push sticks and blocks can go wrong. I found this video on the subject to be useful: https://youtu.be/u7sRrC2Jpp4
 

steamshovel

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Why do you have the fence on the left side of the blade? Normally for a right handed person the fence is to the right of the blade. Cutting like that would to me be awkward.

Perhaps you need to make some feather boards to hold the wood down.

If I had done that with the SawStop the brake would have triggered.


I'll add that it is good of you to show people how they could get into trouble doing such a thing. Thanks. Most would shut up and not allow themselves to be embarrassed.

I'm one of those where either Left or right handed is OK. Sometimes I rip on the left and sometimes I rip on the right.

I don't mind showing if it helps someone then its all for the better.


Preston
 

bsshog40

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Yep, rip on the right, crosscut on the left. Guards usually get in the way when ripping such small wood and it took me years of cutting on my tablesaw to realize that I was doing it wrong. I was always ripping on the left and crosscutting on the right. I finally saw a video and changed my ways. No worries about kickback anymore either. Lol Oh yea, and I have about a 6 piece set of different pushers.
 

jttheclockman

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Yep, rip on the right, crosscut on the left. Guards usually get in the way when ripping such small wood and it took me years of cutting on my tablesaw to realize that I was doing it wrong. I was always ripping on the left and crosscutting on the right. I finally saw a video and changed my ways. No worries about kickback anymore either. Lol Oh yea, and I have about a 6 piece set of different pushers.



Not always true:wink:
The guide rails on a tablesaw go all the way across the table and if you have add-on wings they go even further for a reason. There are so many safety things and add-ons that can and should be used and followed. But this goes for every tool in the shop and that includes the lathe you turn pens on and yes a pen blank can bite you.
 
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MDWine

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My hat is off to you Preston!

You obviously knew the outcome of such a post with all of the responses, and taught us all a lesson.
A post like this gets everyone THINKING.
You know the next time I cut anything with a power tool, I'll think of this post.

Good on ya! Thanks!
 

steamshovel

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My hat is off to you Preston!

You obviously knew the outcome of such a post with all of the responses, and taught us all a lesson.
A post like this gets everyone THINKING.
You know the next time I cut anything with a power tool, I'll think of this post.

Good on ya! Thanks!

Thank you.

Every time I use my table saw since my close call I think of the close call I had. I hope this helps someone from getting hurt. That would more than make my day!

Preston
 

mmayo

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Push sticks made easy

Please make these and save your precious fingers. These let me cut strips as thin as 1/16" safely with my precious fingers inches from my blades.
 

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Don Miller

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I did some real damage by trying to be innovative. Halfway through 3 fingers but completely restored thankfully. I threw out my saw. It was cheap and serveved it purpose at the time. Now i think that anyone who has a table saw under. $150 has no business using it. Every saw should have the sensor mechanism. I have seen too many long time professionals still loose Bobby par5s.
 
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I did some real damage by trying to be innovative. Halfway through 3 fingers but completely restored thankfully. I threw out my saw. It was cheap and serveved it purpose at the time. Now i think that anyone who has a table saw under. $150 has no business using it. Every saw should have the sensor mechanism. I have seen too many long time professionals still loose Bobby par5s.

Gotta disagree with you on this one Don:biggrin:. I've been woodworking for close to 50 years now, and yes, I've done some stupid things in the past. I've only had one incident with a table saw that caused bodily damage, clipped my index finger. It was from new Jet cabinet saw and it was a beauty. I had to get rid of it when I moved but kept my old Sears 8" saw. It's old but it works great and I'll never throw it out. I don't advice anyone to buy a cheap TS but I also don't advice people to go out a spend a fortune on something they will use infrequently. Sensors aren't cheap and even though they shut off blade spin quickly you still get cut. I believe that common sense, knowing your machine and its working parts and knowing all your equipment capabilities and using built in safety features is the answer. Work smart, pay attention and don't use a tool for what it was not intended. Most accidents, not all however, are due to operator error. These are just my thoughts though.
 
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