3D Printer

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pjkoths

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Sep 27, 2017
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I am looking for recommendations on what 3D printer brand/type to buy, budgeted $1000 - $2000 (or less).

Anyone out there have suggestions both good and bad.

There is a lot of information out there, however 90% seems biased - driven by advertisers and conflicting.

Anything you may suggest will be appreciated.

Pete
 
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RobS

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I ran a Robo3d, upgraded with an E3DV6 HOTEND AND Volcano I bought after market. The Volcano allowed me to run any PLA more reliably. It was not entirely turn key and I had to learn to modify the software code a little to get it just right. I printed for 1.5 years straight with it. about 12-16 hours a day, 7 days a week. I also bought Simplify3d to generate my 3d print files. I design primarily in Solidworks and the files generated worked about 99/100, only had one goofy file. Currently one of the axis has gone wonky and I have been to busy turning to figure it out.
 

pjkoths

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Marysville, Washington
I ran a Robo3d, upgraded with an E3DV6 HOTEND AND Volcano I bought after market. The Volcano allowed me to run any PLA more reliably. It was not entirely turn key and I had to learn to modify the software code a little to get it just right. I printed for 1.5 years straight with it. about 12-16 hours a day, 7 days a week. I also bought Simplify3d to generate my 3d print files. I design primarily in Solidworks and the files generated worked about 99/100, only had one goofy file. Currently one of the axis has gone wonky and I have been to busy turning to figure it out.

Thank you - I'll check it out.

I am not necessarily looking for a turnkey device, a kit printer would be perfectly fine too, mods, upgrades and coding make it that much more fun and challenging. Looking for accuracy and a quality built printer..
 

randyrls

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Peter, PLEASE DO NOT get a kit first time out of the gate. It is difficult enough with an already assembled printer. Do not go for cheap. I did both of these and regret it!

3D printing takes HOURS AND HOURS to produce a 6" x 4" x 4" object. Not suitable for mass production.

These two objects took 23 hours to create on my printer.

View in Gallery



For your second printer you can get a kit. You will learn a lot, and expand your vocabulary of curse words. :)

3D printers are not as simple as pressing the print button on a computer.

I've been playing with my kit, cheap, printer for 3 months and am just now getting it to work reliably. I need to upgrade some of the printer components. 3D printed objects usually require some clean up. Holes may not be the exact right size and may have lumps and bumps inside. You may have to drill them out as cleanup. Threads are not going to work.

I didn't mean to make this so negative, but just want you to know what you are getting into. GO FOR IT!
 
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BeeAMaker

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Jan 30, 2017
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Elkhart IN, USA
I would also recommend SeeMeCNC, specifically the Rostock MAX V3, best bang for the buck, and very good customer support.
https://www.seemecnc.com/collection...roducts/rostock-max-v3-desktop-3d-printer-rtp

It comes in a DIY kit as well,
https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/3d-printers/products/rostock-max-v3-desktop-3d-printer-diy-kit

Not really that hard to assemble, but if you value your time, you might consider pre-assembled. Unlike a lot of other kits out there, there are no parts you need to make or fabricate. (if you were locale you could bring it to open meet night at the MakerHive and we would help you assemble it)

But the type you get might depend a bit on what you want to do with it. What material you plan to print with it and how big of objects you want.

There are Pros and Cons to both the Cartesian (x,y,z) style of printer vs the Delta (tower) style but the primary difference is the Cartesian flavor can print larger in the X and Y direction but is limited on the Z and the Delta flavor can print in almost unlimited Z but restricted by X and Y. They each have their own set of issues so they are pretty much a wash compared to build volume. There are very few scenarios that I have seem that would dictate one style over another. For example, if the majority of your printing needs are objects 3" on the X and Y, but 12" on the Z, then a Delta is about your only choice.
 
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BeeAMaker

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Holes may not be the exact right size and may have lumps and bumps inside. You may have to drill them out as cleanup. Threads are not going to work.

Things like this can be adjusted with the SeeMeCNC printers. There are some kits out there that lock out their firmware and won't allow you to adjust it. If dimensions are not correct, Hole sizes etc, then try to find out if you are able to adjust your steps per mm on your motors. Judging by your printed parts, you have a Cartesian style that probably uses threaded rods?? You may also check to see if there is a Threads per inch (or mm) setting that can be adjusted. If either, or both are off by just a bit, that can cause your dimensions to be off. Also, make sure there is no backlash in your lead screws or belts.

I agree there are some kits you want to stay away from - sounds like you found one. ;) But there are also some kits that come with everything you need and no fabricated or printed parts. and depending on how mechanically inclined one is, easy to assemble. LuzBot I believe still has one (over priced IMO) and SeeMeCNC are kits that are easy to assemble, but time consuming.

I print threads just fine. I've printed 0.25x20. Small threads like 3mm or 4-40 don't bother, just print the hole small and run the screw in. It will make it's own threads.

If you are getting clumps in your holes, then you might be over extruding. Here is a good guide to help figure out what you might change depending on your printed results.
A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide - 3DVerkstan Knowledge Base
 

pjkoths

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Marysville, Washington
Thanks for the help and and experiences you shared.

I have been looking at the SeeMeCNC ARTEMIS 300 and I have been talking to the fine people there. I think that this is the one I will end up getting.

Though it is at the high end of my budget it is a quality printer and it's made in the good ol USA.

There is a lot to learn and I am not expecting to start off without any bumps in the road. Besides being retired everyday is Saturday, I have plenty of time.

Looking for a place to buy the filament that is reasonable, it all seems priced rather high. Also looking at a FILASTRUDER that may be an option. What do you think?

Pete
 

RobS

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I would not go with Filastruder OR at least not for the first year.
checkout https://printedsolid.com/ for filament and upgrades. Its a mom and pop shop and I have worked with them for about 3 years. Very solid company and great service. They are also a reseller of Simplify3D, so I would give him a call and see what he can bundle together for you at a great price.

I have found that starting with quality filament will reduce your start up pain. I'd recommend Colorfab PLA grey, pink, green or blue. Do not buy the color Lila all other colors have been fine!!! https://printedsolid.com/products/colorfabb-pla-pha-1-75mm
 

smik

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Anyone have experience with the Prusa models, specifically the original, not the knockoffs? They have a new model the MK3 with nice features coming out soon. The Trinamic steppers look very good, and the following features, power loss restart, filament runout warning and they now use 20/20 extrusion for the base make for a nice machine.
Also what made you decide to go with the delta vs the cartesian.
 

BeeAMaker

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I like the Hatchbox brand, about middle of the road on price and good quality for PLA.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=hatchbox

I would start with PLA, then move up from there, ABS will give you all types of headaches in warping off the bed. Thing to remember with PLA, if it jams, your running too hot.

Making your own filament sounds glorious, but it depends on many factors. Sounds like you have the time so that won't be a factor. Reused plastic doesn't make good filament, I would recommend starting fresh with raw material pellets for a quality filament. Plastics can only be reheated X number of times before it starts to crumble.

Not sure if this is a members only thread on my forums, but here is a list of filament venders:
Places to purchase 3D printer filament | MakerHive

The Artemis is fairly new, released November I think. I don't know enough about it yet to comment much.

For anyone close enough to attend, or like to Travel, the worlds largest 3D printing extravaganza is just around the corner:
https://www.eventbrite.com/e/2018-midwest-reprap-festival-registration-38591937524
Note: Prusa himself is usually in attendance ;) There are a couple Prusa guys in the group. The MK3 looks like a very nice machine.
 

pjkoths

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WoW Thanks. Now you got me thinking. I visited "printed solid". No Delta printers there but nice bundles.
Now that I am thinking about printers again, a question cane to mind. How much would you use the capability to print large, 11x11x15? How big do you print and have you ever regretted no going for a large print capability?


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 

mecompco

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Fairfield, Maine
We have a couple Makerbots at work--I would not recommend them. Very finicky, and prone to jamming. Also, very difficult I find to get to print to scale. These are the only 3D printers I've used, so I can't vouch for any other brands, but I've not been at all impressed by the Makerbots.
 

BeeAMaker

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Again, that depends on what you want to print. I use mine for prototyping parts, in reality a 6x6x6 build area would be large enough for 90% of what I do. however, there are times I am thankful for the extra Z. I always seem to run out of Z before I run out of X or Y. (kind of like needing a bed extension)

What is your use? For mechanical type stuff, just about either style would suffice. If you plan to print spiral vases, artsy-fartsy stuff, or an Iron man suit of armor, then a Delta is better suited because of the taller Z.

I also have one of these, https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21711
Prints very nice right out of the box. The build plate is about 3.5"x3.5"x3.5" most of what I do would fit on the plate - except for the Z.

The short answer is - one of each :biggrin:

I will say this however - guys I have met with something smaller than 6" in any one direction wishes they had 8". (I'll leave that one alone :rolleyes: )
 
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