Squaring issues. Help!

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INSierra

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Looking for some help with segmenting. I have a whiskey blank and am trying to put a few aluminum inlays along the length that would run vertical to the grain. When it is running on the lathe it is very easy to see if the aluminum is not perfectly set and perpendicular to the grain. So, my question is, since the staves from these barrels are not square (or even close) what is the best way to square each segment of them so that the aluminum inlays between them will look correct and not "wobbly" when it is being turned? Hopefully that is clear as mud. Written description is good, pictures are GREAT! Thanks in advance.

I did search, but honestly did not understand some of what was written.
 
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KenV

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Brian -- and old penturner called Eagle said you don't drill the center of the blank - you drill the center of the pattern.

Find the points on the ends where the grain is straight -- and that becomes the center of your pen.

I usually put it between centers with those points and turn it round. Then you can do what ever you want
 

jttheclockman

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Maybe you can take a photo of what you are seeing and it would help us to help you. i did not follow what you were asking.
 

Dale Lynch

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I have some of those blanks.You'll have to square it up if you ever want to run straight lines.I used a disc/belt sander and a tablesaw.squared up 2 sides on the sander and the other 2 on the saw.You will lose quite a bit of material so use a thicker stave to start with..Once you have it true, rip it down and laminate the metal in.Good luck.
 

magpens

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As I understand the situation, you want to use a whiskey blank, which will have the grain direction bowed in the shape of a whiskey barrel. So Ken is suggesting that you carefully choose 2 endpoints which then define an axis. Support the blank at these 2 endpoints, using the Turn Between Centers method, and turn the blank cylindrical (round). The axis of the cylinder will not likely correspond exactly to the grain of the wood. You can then cut the cylinder perpendicular to the axis and insert your metal pieces at the cuts, wherever you want metal. I don't think a picture is necessary at this stage, but it would be nice to see one after you have done the segmenting and glued the pieces together ... or when the pen is finished.

Spanx and I were typing at the same time. With all due respect to Spanx, I don't think you *have* to square the blank, IMHO. Turning between centers allows you to avoid the squaring process and achieve a nice cylindrical blank which you can cut perpendicular to its length wherever you want to insert metal.
 
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Curly

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But Mal what if he wants the inserts to be lengthwise? That's what I think he is after. Holding round stock is not hard if one has the experience and tools, it can be problematic for beginners that don't.
 

magpens

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Pete, he said he wants the inserts to go "vertical to the grain". I interpret that to mean *across* the grain. I know the grain is not at the present time straight. If he wants the final segments to have the affect of *appearing* to strainghten the grain the challenge index goes up.

He says he is "trying to put a few aluminum inlays along the length that would run vertical to the grain". To me that means he wants a linear array of cross-axis inserts spaced along the length of the blank .... no metal running (ie. no conducting path) in the direction of the long axis.

But .... there may be other interpretations. ..... Time out for tonight ... see ya tomorrow.
 
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INSierra

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You were right Mal. I am trying to put the inserts in so it gives the appearance of the metal strapping/hoops on the whiskey barrels. Well, at least that is my hope.

Thanks for the help!
 

jttheclockman

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Can someone put a photo up of a whiskey blank??? I do not get the problem. If it is a square blank then cut the blank and insert the aluminum bands. If it is a barrel shaped blank with small staves and is shaped like a barrel then find center of blank, place on the lathe and make sure it runs true and then using a parting tool make 2 cuts of the blank keeping the orientation of the grain marked with a witness mark so when you reassemble everything lines back up. I would go ahead and drill the blank ahead of time for the tubes. I would also drill the aluminum ahead of time too so when assembling all you have to do is stack them and glue.

Unless a photo or two show up here this is a guessing game and i do not like guessing games. That is all I have for now unless a photo shows up here.
 

Curly

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Act now! Limited time offer.

John it is a single piece of wood cut from a white oak whisky barrel stave. You know, slight curve from when it was steam bent, charred on one side (inside of the barrel), a little dirty and weathered on the other (the outside of the barrel). Usually cut from a Jack Daniel's Whiskey barrel and comes with a "Certificate of Authenticity" that everyone pays a lot of money for. I have some staves that came from a leaky French wine barrel I could cut some banks from, send you for free and I'll throw in a hand scribbled yellow post-it note certificate too.:big grin:
 

jttheclockman

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John it is a single piece of wood cut from a white oak whisky barrel stave. You know, slight curve from when it was steam bent, charred on one side (inside of the barrel), a little dirty and weathered on the other (the outside of the barrel). Usually cut from a Jack Daniel's Whiskey barrel and comes with a "Certificate of Authenticity" that everyone pays a lot of money for. I have some staves that came from a leaky French wine barrel I could cut some banks from, send you for free and I'll throw in a hand scribbled yellow post-it note certificate too.:big grin:


:island:OK so what is the problem??? :)It is the most basic thing of segmenting. Find the center of both ends of blank. (draw a line from corner to corner to form an X and that is center) Put on lathe. make blank round or whatever shape you desire. If you want aluminum for the rings. lay your pen tube on the blank and mark where you want the rings and part off. Add rings and be done with it. I have sen these blanks. here are some examples.
By the way not mine. They are all over the net just do a google search.

il_340x270.553234057_5ivt.jpg




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jack_daniels_rollerball2.JPG
 
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INSierra

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"OK so what is the problem??? It is the most basic thing of segmenting......Add rings and be done with it."




I am hoping I am taking the tone of the response incorrectly. Some of us are very new at this, so "the most basic thing" isn't necessarily basic. I was hoping to learn and not be belittled.....
 

jttheclockman

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"OK so what is the problem??? It is the most basic thing of segmenting......Add rings and be done with it."




I am hoping I am taking the tone of the response incorrectly. Some of us are very new at this, so "the most basic thing" isn't necessarily basic. I was hoping to learn and not be belittled.....



That statement was geared more toward Pete. I have known Pete a long time.

Let me ask you does any of what we are saying making any sense??? You are not responding to what was suggested. Is this what you are looking to do. Without photos sometimes it is hard to decifer what the OP wants to ask.
 

INSierra

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It does make sence. I am gonna try it on a practice blank tonight just to make sure. I don't want to waste a good one until I am confident in my skills. I really do appreciate the help!
 

INSierra

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Finished up tonight. I was hoping the aluminum gave an appearance of the rings on the barrell. I used blood wood at the top to mimic the red wax used on Makers Mark bottles. I am not a fan of oak, but it is what he wanted.
 

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jttheclockman

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Finished up tonight. I was hoping the aluminum gave an appearance of the rings on the barrell. I used blood wood at the top to mimic the red wax used on Makers Mark bottles. I am not a fan of oak, but it is what he wanted.


Looks good and i am sure he will like it. Maybe next time use a thicker piece of aluminum such as 1/8" or so. Oak is one of those overlooked woods because it does not have drastic grain patterns but teamed with the right combination of woods such as bloodwood or walnut it stands proud. it is a manly strong statement wood. I use those combinations in alot of projects I make and they sell well.
 
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