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Old 03-25-2013, 05:22 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Very nice Mike! looks really good, too add strength to the blank before ruff turning it. l square the blank up then glue pop sticks to all sides, then turned the blank round,then you can wrap the round blank with string then soak it in CA, this will add strength before you drill the blank to size.

For those doing segmenting that has alot of different segments and took a lot of time to put together, these little tips are perfect that John has mentioned. Just keep them in mind if you are really getting into some tough segmenting. I have one on the burner that I have yet to put all the components together and I will be using these methods and more to keep that baby together. Hopefully will get it done soon.
So John is the problem that I had with glue joints letting go common. Can you recommend other kinds of glue that may be better than what I used?
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:08 PM   #22 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by jttheclockman View Post
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Originally Posted by johncrane View Post
Very nice Mike! looks really good, too add strength to the blank before ruff turning it. l square the blank up then glue pop sticks to all sides, then turned the blank round,then you can wrap the round blank with string then soak it in CA, this will add strength before you drill the blank to size.

For those doing segmenting that has alot of different segments and took a lot of time to put together, these little tips are perfect that John has mentioned. Just keep them in mind if you are really getting into some tough segmenting. I have one on the burner that I have yet to put all the components together and I will be using these methods and more to keep that baby together. Hopefully will get it done soon.
So John is the problem that I had with glue joints letting go common. Can you recommend other kinds of glue that may be better than what I used?

Mike if you are asking me my answer is all segmented blanks are subject to failure just because you are using so many different materials and different grains of woods. The epoxy you are using is one I am not familar with. Not all epoxys are good for every material so you need to look at that. I use System 3 epoxies and have had good success. As mentioned heat is a huge enemy when drilling. John gave you some ideas as to how to try to avoid failures that work quite well. Just my opinion
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:32 PM   #23 (permalink)
 
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Great job on the execution and the instructions, I'm gonna try something like it soon. The other obvious thing is the quality of the photo, simply amazing, I'm so envious.
WB
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:57 PM   #24 (permalink)
 
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Mike,

Thanks very much for the photo tutorial. You made your beautiful pen look almost easy.
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:35 PM   #25 (permalink)
 
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I have a new design that I glued up and drilled tonight that I will post tomorrow but when I drilled this one I started with a small drill and worked my way up slowly and all held together so maybe that is the secret to drilling.
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:21 PM   #26 (permalink)
 
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Coating the blank with thick CA glue and applying a paper towel for some structure is something I picked up from another IAP member. He does this a couple of rounds and then after it's fully dried, he drills sloooooowly.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:42 PM   #27 (permalink)
 
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Thanks for a great tutorial. For drilling success, here is a comment from Hank Lee that was helpful to me:
The key is to take your time and think through the process. If you are building up a nice blank or have an unusually beautiful blank, take your time. Some people take a week to drill out snakewood. They drill 1/4 to 1/2 inch and then let the snakewood cool and acclamate. The next day, the same again. I personally drill a little faster (over a whole day or two), but the point is - on a beautiful blank or one that you have struggled in making - don't rush it.
I can't go that slow, but I did slow way down on segmented work. the glues seem to break down when the metal hits around 150. As a guideline, If you can't hold on to the tip of the bit , you are probably drilling too fast or too hard.

Harry
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Old 03-30-2013, 03:27 AM   #28 (permalink)
 
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I have done quite a bit of segmenting with aluminum. My number 1 problem is in the sanding; it is sometimes very hard to keep the small aluminum dust from becoming embedded in the surrounding wood. On one pen, after sanding all the way thru the grits, I had to start over. It did it again. I finally sharpened a skew scary sharp, and took a microscopic cut across the surface and applied CA after the skew cut, without any sanding. It was not perfect, but I could not manage to sand it without the transfer of very tiny aluminum particles to the wood.

I have also had the aluminum transfer to alternative ivory scallops on a set of segmented pen blanks that i had spent a long time putting together. I had to scrap them. I could not get the imbedded aluminum out of the alternative ivory, and it had an ugly dark "smudged" look to it.

Has anyone had the same trouble? How did you deal with it?
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:54 AM   #29 (permalink)
 
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Thanks for the pics, great pen. Is the metal thinner on Diet Coke as apposed to regular Coke?

Eric...
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Old 03-30-2013, 06:01 AM   #30 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
I have also had the aluminum transfer to alternative ivory scallops on a set of segmented pen blanks that i had spent a long time putting together. I had to scrap them. I could not get the imbedded aluminum out of the alternative ivory, and it had an ugly dark "smudged" look to it.

Has anyone had the same trouble? How did you deal with it?
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I usually bath my blank in denatured alcohol before I finish it and can see the aluminum on the paper towel that I use to dry. I am not sure if I get all of the aluminum off but I do the best that I can. I always use a scary sharp skew for this work. I usually hone it on a diamond hone. I need to get a slow speed sharpening system here and have been looking and drooling.

Eric, the aluminum on a diet coke can is not thinner but it weighs less
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