How to repair a segmented blowout

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Ok so sometimes the worse happens.

1_Blowout1.JPG


Ok so remove the rest of the segment you may need to even use a parting tool, I got lucky here. I used a pair of pliers and worked it off..
1_blowout2.JPG


Now clean up the mess. I made a sanding disk that I use to square blanks so I also use it as a disk sander.
1_blowout3.JPG


Ok get a new piece and replace the old.
1_blowout5.JPG

1_blowout6.JPG

1_blowout7.JPG


Now I have a hole drilled the entire length of the blank. So after things set up I am going to put my blank back into the chuck, turn those corners off the new piece so it is out of the way of my chuck. Turn the blank around and insert it back into the chuck and I have my drilled hole to use as a guide to drill the new piece. That is about it.

Hope this help some of you. This is not the first time I have had to do this as you can imagine. The best thing we can do is not get upset and just fix it!:biggrin:
 
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08K.80

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I know the feeling Mike.
I had that same thing happen to me last night. Except it ruined the tube and I had to start over from the beginning. My tool grabbed and twisted and BAM! I just finished gluing it together and will attempt to turn it down again tomorrow or Saturday if I have time.
 
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jttheclockman

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I know people are set in their ways and things but if i can put my 2 cents in here. This is just things that I do and they have worked well for me. First I like to use epoxy as my go to glue. I do this for 2 reasons. I feel it is a better ahesion glue with disimilar materials such as aluminum and wood. CA glue dries hard and brittle to me as epoxy has the ever so slight elastic characteristic which can help in a snag situation. At least that is what I believe.

The second thing and I think this would help alot of segmenters out if they would drill the pieces individually and then build the blank on the tube. You now take out the possible blowups from drilling. Now this is always not possible but in the case you shown Mike it is very doable. i do this all the time too. Works for me.
 
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I usually use epoxy here but in this case I wanted to get that pen turned so I use the CA. Sometime I think CA is better at handling the heat of drilling better? I go back and forth. I like CA for when I am using wood layers too. Different glues for different uses and different moods. I have the pen posted on the Show of your pens forum now. It came out really good.
 
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I know the feeling Mike.
I had that same thing happen to me last night. Except it ruined the tube and I had to start over from the beginning. My tool grabbed and twisted and BAM! I just finished gluing it together and will attempt to turn it down again tomorrow or Saturday if I have time.

These things happen so fast that it isn't funny. I was moving that drill bit in so I could make the last run with it and it moved too quickly and just tore out the end of the blank. Not that big of a deal but it slowed me down just a bit. I hope you get yours back up and finish it soon. I see the other half posted in the forum and it is amazing. I can't wait to see the other half.
 

Hendu3270

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I have a pen I'm working on now that had a blow out as well. The problem was the blanks had a separate section of wood, lined with brass on each side with another type of wood on the outside of that, all running along the blank lengthwise. So cutting on the lathe is always cutting across these pieces. The blow out totally separated one blank and I felt it was wasted. The other, however, didn't explode all the way to the end. Which was a very lucky thing, as this end had my scallops, and also a mosaic knife insert that I was able to save. I just prepped the end, added a brass section and another piece of wood, (in this case, some wood, and two sections of corian), and I'm back in business. Each blow out is different, that's for sure.
 

healeydays

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Mike,

Do I see in the 1st 2 pictures that you are gluing support sticks on the sides of your blank prior to turning to hold the blank together?

Mike B
 
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No I don't glue anything on you may be seeing the aluminum pieces that are parallel with the main tube? If you are very careful and in this case this was a self inflicted wound you won't break out. I it the drill against the end while I was aligning things to make that last drill pass. It was not that difficult to fix I wanted to demonstrate this for everyone that is why I posted it. I have had to fix many breaks, blowups and otherwise bad stuff in the time I have been doing this. I wanted to show others that all is not lost when these things happen and to show that it can happen and does happen to all of us.
 

Monty

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I know people are set in their ways and things but if i can put my 2 cents in here. This is just things that I do and they have worked well for me. First I like to use epoxy as my go to glue. I do this for 2 reasons. I feel it is a better ahesion glue with disimilar materials such as aluminum and wood. CA glue dries hard and brittle to me as epoxy has the ever so slight elastic characteristic which can help in a snag situation. At least that is what I believe.

The second thing and I think this would help alot of segmenters out if they would drill the pieces individually and then build the blank on the tube. You now take out the possible blowups from drilling. Now this is always not possible but in the case you shown Mike it is very doable. i do this all the time too. Works for me.

I usually use epoxy here but in this case I wanted to get that pen turned so I use the CA. Sometime I think CA is better at handling the heat of drilling better? I go back and forth. I like CA for when I am using wood layers too. Different glues for different uses and different moods. I have the pen posted on the Show of your pens forum now. It came out really good.
Just a question, have either of you tried the rubberized CA and if so, what is your opinion of it? It is supposed to have more "flex" than regular CA.
 
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I have not tried it but I cannot use anything but the odorless kind anyway. I like CA for this type of work. It is fast and doesn't seem to heat up and get soft like some epoxies can do. I use both CA and epoxy for this type of work but since I started to try the odorless it has made life a bit easier. I was able to go ahead and drill out and finish that pen in a few hours after repairing it.

il_570xN.450456961_brk6.jpg
 

jttheclockman

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I know people are set in their ways and things but if i can put my 2 cents in here. This is just things that I do and they have worked well for me. First I like to use epoxy as my go to glue. I do this for 2 reasons. I feel it is a better ahesion glue with disimilar materials such as aluminum and wood. CA glue dries hard and brittle to me as epoxy has the ever so slight elastic characteristic which can help in a snag situation. At least that is what I believe.

The second thing and I think this would help alot of segmenters out if they would drill the pieces individually and then build the blank on the tube. You now take out the possible blowups from drilling. Now this is always not possible but in the case you shown Mike it is very doable. i do this all the time too. Works for me.

I usually use epoxy here but in this case I wanted to get that pen turned so I use the CA. Sometime I think CA is better at handling the heat of drilling better? I go back and forth. I like CA for when I am using wood layers too. Different glues for different uses and different moods. I have the pen posted on the Show of your pens forum now. It came out really good.
Just a question, have either of you tried the rubberized CA and if so, what is your opinion of it? It is supposed to have more "flex" than regular CA.


I have not tried it. I did not even know they made such a thing. Do you know what the consistancy looks like??? Is it a thick CA and what is the cure time on it if you know??? Thanks.

Might be a good question to put to the forum and see what the outcome is.
I think I will do that if you do not mind. Could be interesting.
 
Joined
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Messages
4,368
Location
Claremont NH
I know people are set in their ways and things but if i can put my 2 cents in here. This is just things that I do and they have worked well for me. First I like to use epoxy as my go to glue. I do this for 2 reasons. I feel it is a better ahesion glue with disimilar materials such as aluminum and wood. CA glue dries hard and brittle to me as epoxy has the ever so slight elastic characteristic which can help in a snag situation. At least that is what I believe.

The second thing and I think this would help alot of segmenters out if they would drill the pieces individually and then build the blank on the tube. You now take out the possible blowups from drilling. Now this is always not possible but in the case you shown Mike it is very doable. i do this all the time too. Works for me.

I usually use epoxy here but in this case I wanted to get that pen turned so I use the CA. Sometime I think CA is better at handling the heat of drilling better? I go back and forth. I like CA for when I am using wood layers too. Different glues for different uses and different moods. I have the pen posted on the Show of your pens forum now. It came out really good.
Just a question, have either of you tried the rubberized CA and if so, what is your opinion of it? It is supposed to have more "flex" than regular CA.


I have not tried it. I did not even know they made such a thing. Do you know what the consistancy looks like??? Is it a thick CA and what is the cure time on it if you know??? Thanks.

Might be a good question to put to the forum and see what the outcome is.
I think I will do that if you do not mind. Could be interesting.

I used some CA from Locktite that was like a gel. It was so nice to work with. No runs to get you stuck to your work it was great.
 

jttheclockman

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Location
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I have a pen I'm working on now that had a blow out as well. The problem was the blanks had a separate section of wood, lined with brass on each side with another type of wood on the outside of that, all running along the blank lengthwise. So cutting on the lathe is always cutting across these pieces. The blow out totally separated one blank and I felt it was wasted. The other, however, didn't explode all the way to the end. Which was a very lucky thing, as this end had my scallops, and also a mosaic knife insert that I was able to save. I just prepped the end, added a brass section and another piece of wood, (in this case, some wood, and two sections of corian), and I'm back in business. Each blow out is different, that's for sure.


Chris this sounds interesting for sure. Hope all holds together and we get to see it soon. Good luck.

I have a blank that I also am working on that has sort of a mosaic pin or 2. I have way too many blanks started right now that I am beginning to forget what goes with what.:)
 
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