Adding a bit of color to my pens

[Drewboy22]

Oh wise ones of the segmenting world.

I have watched several videos on segmenting via youtube so I am basically an expert now. However I have a couple question - Do you prefer segmenting with plastic something like this or with Veneers like this. Which is better or ease of use? Which look better when finished?

My second question is where do you usually buy your sheets? Looking around online it seems veneers go for about $20 -$25 for 3sqft.

Thank you for your help

Drew

 

[jttheclockman]

Drew

Welcome to the world of segmenting where the sky is the limit. Only your imagination will hold you back. So open up and have some fun. There are no set rules as to what to use and when. I use plastics, veneers, metals and any combination of them. You are in the right forum and I suggest you look around and read some of the threads in here. There is a wealth of info here. Good luck and happy turning.

 

[magpens]

Hmmmm .... the first linke does not seem to do anything, Drew. Can you check, please.

 

[Dalecamino]

Drew, as John said, you can use any of the materials both you and, John mentioned. My only input will be to, scuff the plastic and, metal sheets before gluing. Just in case you DIDN'T already know that.

Have fun!!:wink:

 

[Drewboy22]

Hmmmm .... the first linke does not seem to do anything, Drew. Can you check, please.

Lol, it was actually the link you posted on another thread

Try this

 

[Drewboy22]

So, where does everyone buy them? Amazon seems to be about 20 for 3sqft. Is that a good price?

 

[BSea]

If you use metal of much thickness, don't drill the blank with a brad point bit. It will drill the pilot hole, then cut a disk from the metal, and then won't cut anymore till you remove the metal. The problem is that if this happens, it generates lots of heat, and will probably cause the glue to fail, and may damage the blank.

 

[wood-of-1kind]

So, where does everyone buy them? Amazon seems to be about 20 for 3sqft. Is that a good price?

PM sent your way with possible help.

 

[Krash]

If you use metal of much thickness, don't drill the blank with a brad point bit. It will drill the pilot hole, then cut a disk from the metal, and then won't cut anymore till you remove the metal. The problem is that if this happens, it generates lots of heat, and will probably cause the glue to fail, and may damage the blank.

AND, if you segment any metal or something much harder than the surrounding wood at an angle, the brad point bit will chew it up and spit it on the floor.

Even a twist bit will sometimes do the same so I have modified all my drilling bits like this:

Hi Kelly - You can sharpen a drill bit to dramatically improve it's performance with brass (and plastics). Done right it will eliminate the grabbiness of drilling brass (and the chipout of plastics at the exit hole). That may help eliminated the stress that is delaminating your blanks. Tuning the bit for brass will seem like dulling it, but it's not dull. The cutting geometry is just modified.

You can search the web for "sharpen a drill bit for brass" and get a lot of hits.

Here's a link to a video (it's talking about drilling plastics, but it's the same for drilling brass):

How to Make a Twist Drill Safe for Use on Brass and Plastics - YouTube

Here's a link to a discussion with a picture that should help give you a better idea of what you are trying to do. It's about the fourth post down:

The Home Machinist! • View topic - Drilling brass

Drill bits sharpened for brass / plastic will not work well on steel, but they should still be good for wood. Of course, if you modify your drill bit the wrong way, it won't drill anything well. In that case, just sharpen it on your drill doctor and try again.

Once you get the hang of it and get your bit sharpened just right, you can probably use a lot fewer drill bits as you drill larger holes through brass.


Ed

 

[Skie_M]

Would that brass/plastic drill technique also work on aluminum?

 

[Skie_M]

Oh wise ones of the segmenting world.

I have watched several videos on segmenting via youtube so I am basically an expert now. However I have a couple question - Do you prefer segmenting with plastic something like this or with Veneers like this. Which is better or ease of use? Which look better when finished?

My second question is where do you usually buy your sheets? Looking around online it seems veneers go for about $20 -$25 for 3sqft.

Thank you for your help

Drew

Veneer Variety Pack 20 Sq. Ft. - Wood Veneers - Amazon.com

This gives you 20 square feet of veneer for 30 bucks ... free delivery for Amazon Prime members, and a variety of colors to work with. Seriously, how long will it take you to go through 3 square feet of a single color?

 

[jttheclockman]

So, where does everyone buy them? Amazon seems to be about 20 for 3sqft. Is that a good price?

Well Drew I will help a little but will tell you there are many many places to get different materials. As far as metals go, you can get aluminum in your Home centers. Cheapest place. Use anything from roof flashing to thick sheets, tubes, rods and the such. Other metals I get from here
https://www.speedymetals.com/s-137-sheet.aspx or here Aluminum Sheet Craft Metal: All Sizes FAST SHIPPING

As far as wood veneers I make my own. But for colored veneers I get them either at Woodcraft (no link) or Atlas Billiards ttp://www.cuestik.com/ Which is also where I now get my thin colored plastic from.

As far as pickguard material again there are various places such as this Pickguard Materials | stewmac.com ebay is another source.

Acrylic sheets of various thickness I get from here https://www.delviesplastics.com/ but again can be found many places

I get my thin sheets of black and white from here Sheets


That is a start and these are my sources. I am sure others will have more. But like I said look around the segmenting forum and you will find a slew of info that will be helpful in the upcoming projects you will do. As mentioned scuffing of any material for a better bond is a must. I like to use epoxy on most my segmenting but will occasionally use Med CA also. Depending on what I am doing. Good luck and I look forward to seeing what you can do.

Just one other note if you are buying wood veneers for effect, to me that is a waste of money. You will only see end grain and that is basically all the same color unless you use woods such a ebony , maples or holly, also bloodwood would give you nice contrast. But again if you have the ability to cut your own you would save a ton of money. Veneer is not cheap. It is designed for other things than segmenting. Now colored veneers is different because it is just a soft wood dyed in color.

 

[Drewboy22]

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions guys. I will have some veneers headed my way before long.

Thanks

 

[dogcatcher]

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions guys. I will have some veneers headed my way before long.

Thanks

Starting with wood veneers is a smart move, they glue up a lot easier and stronger than plastics or metal segments. Starting with brass or aluminum can or I should say will lead to some failures and are pretty discouraging.

Want to go ahead while you are waiting for the veneer to get here, go to the office supply and pick up a variety package of colored cardstock. Or the dollar stores for some construction paper. Both cardstock and construction paper are wood products and will glue with a good wood glue. Down side, sometimes the dye in the paper will bleed a little. For some the bleed is not an issue, if it is, seal the wood first with shellac then a quick sand and you are good to go. These can be great practice until you get the feel of segmenting, a flat rate box of maple and walnut pen blanks are cheap practice material. A good way to test designs without breaking the bank.