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Old 09-13-2016, 10:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by Kenny Durrant View Post
I noitced you waited 7 hours after coating with ca glue before casting. I wait 3 days. This is a debated topic but I've never heard anyone casting that soon after applying c.a.
I just ordered waterproof stickers so I shouldn't have to seal them anymore. Just glue and cast.
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Old 09-14-2016, 10:19 AM   #12 (permalink)
 
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I'm not trying to start a debate on who's right and who's wrong just saying what works for some and not others. As far as sealing goes part of the purpose for sealing is so the resin doesn't attack the ink or glue. I've done a process for a while then things would happen so I would change the process. Things would go well then I would have to change again. If things are going well then great if not maybe something needs to change.
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Old 04-23-2018, 02:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Smile Barrel trimming advise needed :-))

I'm curious to know if a barrel trimmer is required for wood blanks? Is it acceptable to just use a belt sander on the ends to square things up?
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Old 04-23-2018, 02:37 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by William321 View Post
I'm curious to know if a barrel trimmer is required for wood blanks? Is it acceptable to just use a belt sander on the ends to square things up?
Willian, Yes; All blanks can be trimmed with a sander. I use the Rherrell sand disk and tailstock with a set of transfer punches. I don't even know where my barrel trimmer is.
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Old 04-23-2018, 02:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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The problem with barrel trimmers, is that the shaft spinning inside of the tube creates friction, which creates heat, and with the thin walls of the tubes, heat is created very quickly. The tube expands and then cools.

This leads to de-bonding. It happens to tubes that are just glued into a blank. So when there is a clear blank involved, it shows the spots that come loose.

Sanding the ends will help alleviate this issue, but if the end of the blank gets hot, it can cause the same thing at the ends. Sand lightly to prevent heat.
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Old 04-23-2018, 09:56 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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As mentioned, sanding the barrels square is the way to go. I also let Alumilite cure for at least 3 days, usually a full week, poly gets 2 weeks minimum. I think they polish better with the extra cure time as well.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:06 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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If I may I will weigh in here as well and say I use my barrel trimmer alot. In pen turning as with most hobbies and sports and jobs and in life you need to work at it. because one thing goes wrong do you call for divorce. Do you call the boss and say I quit, and so and so forth.

To the person who revisited an old thread the answer and it is my opinion as well as all others that have answered is just an opinion. You can use a sanding disc on wood as well as a barrel trimmer. That was the only question you asked. But I will give a little more info that is not mentioned. A 4 cutter head is better than a 2 cutter head. Carbide cutter is better than steel. But in all cases care must be taken not to create heat from the cutter cutting into the ends. Also care must be taken to not force the cutter into the ends because if they grab they will rip the casting away from the tubes. Good quality glue and a liberal amount is needed when gluing the tubes in. Time for the glue to set and not just become dry is a key and most glues will have this on the package. What was show in the very first post can happen with a trimmer as well as a sander so just be aware. Heat is your enemy when casting. heat is your enemy in most parts of pen making. Good luck.
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